M37x replacement brake pads.

[sk8koolkat]

Which performance brake pads is best for my m37x, or where can I find good brake pads for it, because I currently have installed on the car a set that came with my R1 Concept slotted and drilled rotors and they are horrible, it doesn't hold and I feel like I have to press the brakes further away in order to get the car to stop where I want it to, and I feel that during the brake in process this is what caused me to have a minor accident on the highway shortly after getting them installed because the brakes failed and the car was not stopping even though I had the brakes depressed to the floor. I understand that new brake pads and rotors take some time to break in but I had them installed in January 2017 and im still having this problem, and I drive about 48miles a day to and from work so they should be broken in already. If anyone have any suggestions or recommendations please let me know.

[Ilya]

You should check out what TunerzStore.com sells (run by one of our mods here)...stoptech, etc. are all higher quality brands.

[Malbec 56 Beast]

Hawk, pagid and a few other brands are real good. You saying that you can push the pedal to the floor sounds like you might have air and or an issue with the caliper. They should stop you real quick regardless of brand, your on the freeway not a track.

Good luck but I don't think it's the pads.

Andy

[PostalsQ]

http://blog.caranddriver.com/performanc ... llowstuff/

[sk8koolkat]

Thank you guys.
@ Andy, I'm going to take your suggestion, I'm going to bring it to the dealership again, I took the car to the dealership about 3 weeks ago for an oil change and they did a full inspection on the whole car as well as on the brakes and they said everything was good, the breaks felt good for about a week and then started feeling loose again.

[wideopn11]

Sounds like maybe need to bleed the brakes and/or check/fill the fluid. Maybe the install didn't properly bed the brakes? That said I'm running Project Mu NS pads with my Akebono brakes.

[sk8koolkat]

@wideopn11 I'm guessing that there is probably air in the line because I checked the brake fluid and it's filled to the max line, I'm going to call the dealership tomorrow. And how do you like the Project Mu?

[Malbec 56 Beast]

Did you install ceramic pads? If your not sure you need to check cuz if the did organic or semi metallic pads I could see that causing an issue. However you saying that they felt good then progressively got worse sounds like the calipers and or the fluid.

.having the same issue with the sons S4.

Andy

[wideopn11]

I'm happy with the Project Mu pads; they're quiet and bite hard. I'm still evaluating the long term but so far so good. Had them for about a year now but I'm super low mileage.
It's just a guess (and easy fix if I'm right) but it could be an air bubble in the lines somewhere. It should be common knowledge to any good mechanic but I just found out when I upgraded my brakes that there are 2 valves on each caliper that need to be bled. It's possible they overlooked that I would certainly want to explore that option and rule it out before spending potentially a lot more money on searching for other issues or replacing parts. What type of fluid are you using? Are you using high temp or standard? Did you do stainless brake lines?

[sk8koolkat]

@Andy yes in fact they are carbon ceramic brake pads that came with the R1 Concept rotors, and it's happening on and off because yesterday when I was driving to work it felt very loose but this morning when I was driving to work it had more pressure than it did yesterday but it certainly doesn't feel 100%, and I called the dealership this morning and there looking to charge me $149/hr just to look at the brakes mind you I was there 5/13/17 for a full inspection and oil change and they also did a brake inspection and said everything was great and 2 weeks after I started feeling the looseness again like when I first got the brake pads and rotors installed.

[sk8koolkat]

@wideopn11 I never knew that but both times I got the pads replaced I don't think the place I went to install them did that so that could possibly be part of the problem. The only bake upgrade I did so far was just the rotors and pads, and as far as the fluid I just go with what the dealership put in it. What brake fluid do you recommend and do you also recommend me upgrading my brakes lines to stainless steel ones and what brand should I go with?

[Malbec 56 Beast]

I love Amsoil, I think there fluid is great stuff. I started to use it a few years ago and love it.

I haven't used there brake fluid yet but when I need to do that I'll use it site sure.

Why are you going to the dealer to check your brakes. I would go to a reputable shop, I use Big O for other incidentals.

Are you going to track the car, if not don't use braided lines, that being said I remember there is a guy on the classifieds that is selling asset, not sure what year they fit.

[sk8koolkat]

@malbec I don't really know any good shops in NYC and I don't really trust every shop, I would prefer and feel more comfortable with someone that specialize in Infiniti or Nissan.
And no track for my car I use it as my daily driver.

[wideopn11]

I'm using Stoptech STR-600 and Stoptech lines front and rear.
https://www.tunerzstore.com/Infiniti-M3 ... 50-akebono
https://www.tunerzstore.com/Infiniti-M3 ... 50-akebono

[Malbec 56 Beast]

I just did Stop Tech on all four corners, they look great and tall affordable. I did the cross drilled and slotted rotors and ceramic pads. Love em, to be fair my stock ones were shot.

I bought them from eBay at brake motive for $250ish delivered. When I opened the box they said Stop Tech.

Andy

[Malbec 56 Beast]

I just did Stop Tech on all four corners, they look great and tall affordable. I did the cross drilled and slotted rotors and ceramic pads. Love em, to be fair my stock ones were shot.

I bought them from eBay at brake motive for $250ish delivered. When I opened the box they said Stop Tech.

Andy

[sk8koolkat]

Thank you, I think I'm going to go with those Stop tech pads.

[mikedamageinc]

I've found that bleeding the brakes on separate occasions helps get all the air out. Bleed, drive, bleed ,drive bleed. I don't know if it's the ABS that needs cycling or what but thats what it took to get mine to feel right.

As far as equipment I've been using centric slotted and Hawk HPS pads for a long time and love them. The pads lasted 100k on my Camaro thru autocross and hard driving. Also use braided lines and ATE fluid on all my vehicles. If you want hard stops, the new Hawk street race pads grab hard but dust like crazy and actually stop a little too well for daily driver.

[wideopn11]

The dust issue is why I initially went with Project Mu pads; Tunerzstore recommended them for low dust but high stopping power. They do both.

[sk8koolkat]

@mikedamageinc so I'm guessing you've had the same problem?
@wideopn11 I hate the dust I would prefer something with less dust.

I had my father take a look at the car over the weekend because he used to be a macanic and he said it might be the pads I have installed on it now, he said it shouldn't be the master cylinder because there no sign or brake fluid leakage. So I'm hoingv to start by ordering new pads and bleeding the brakes to see if that solves the problem.

[Debonair]

You might want to switch back to a full face rotor too if you are looing for every possible improvement of braking. Drilled and slotted rotors on a street car are really only for looks. They actually decrease the friction surface which increases the braking distance, although the amount is probably negligible.

The reality is that the OE brake pads and rotors are more than sufficient at stopping these cars. Aftermarket pads intended for street use should also be fine. I ran a set of Wagner Thermoquiet pads up until this last weekend when I reinstalled the new Nissan pads the car came with. Both stop the car better than should be expected for a car of this size and the speed I drive it at, even with the added rotational mass of my heavy aftermarket wheels and tires, and my 275+ pound self.

I don't open the bleeder valve on my calipers when changing the pads so I choose not to bleed my brakes. It sounds to me like they were opened and not properly bled and as already suggested just need to be (re)bled. Change the pads for peace of mind if you really want but I personally doubt that is a significant, if any part of the issue.