Hey Everybody, looking for some insight about an issue I'm having with my 2011 m37x. I did search before posting and couldnt find anything quite like this issue.

So every time it snows (ie wet&salty) after driving for several miles the VDC light illuminates and the car goes into a kind of limp mode. I cannot exceed 2500 RPM, and when I try it bucks like its trying to correct a slip. The only way to get the condition to resolve is to shut the car down and restart, which clears the issue until you start driving on crappy roads. If I try to start off driving the the VDC switched off, it takes longer but it still happens, and it also trips a MAF code in the ECU. This will happen in snow, ECO, Standard, or Sport mode. I can manually shift through the 2500 rpm limit, but its not happy about it.

I had this checked out by my company fleet garage and they said that my brakes are good, fluids are good, and wheel speed sensors are reading dead on. They also checked out the MAF sensors and they are fine. Took it to the Nissan dealership on a dry day when it wasn't exhibiting the issue and they did a standard diag that didn't reveal anything either.

The only way to get the condition to resolve is to shut the car down and restart, which clears the issue until you start driving on crappy roads. I have the feeling there is a short in a circut somewhere. Nissan stated that they wanted to replace the BCM, but as far as I can tell it doesn't actually control the VDC.

Any thoughts? I have to take it to Infiniti later in the week, just looking for any idea what to expect.

Thanks!

Rob

Any DTC's (diagnostic trouble codes) setting in the vehicles ABS/VDC system?

You, or whoever scans it for you, will need a vehicle scanner capable of reading the ABS/VDC system. Most low end scanners only do basic engine and emissions related codes and data.

The fleet garage was able to look into the ABS system and wasn't able to find any DTC's, but they couldn't access the VDC to look for codes. The Nissan dealership scanned it as well and reported that they were unable to find any codes at all.

I know this doesn't help much but you'll have to try to replicate the issue with the technician in the car or driving. If you can do this, they might have a better idea of where to look, or the car may store a code during this state. My guess is that whatever sensor is telling your car that the wheel is slipping is what is malfunctioning. Jut my rudimentary guess.

When I had my fleet guy look at it we drove around in that condition, but everything read fine. Would they be able to freeze capture the event when it happened if i could get it to enter it while they were scanning?

mdc20smthng wrote:Would they be able to freeze capture the event when it happened if i could get it to enter it while they were scanning?

Depending on the scan tool they are using they should be able to view and record the vehicle data while driving the car. Then they can go back and review the recorded data to see if they can find the fault. The sensor data should reveal the malfunction.

quick thought are you able to turn off automatic traction controls maybe computer is getting confused with a little wheel slippage

Nope the button doesn't seem to do anything. It's weird.

Have you had any luck with this? I'm seeing the same thing with mine this winter. Right now I'm leaning towards it being a MAF issue, not the ABS/VDC. With the thinking being that the hard bucking caused by the MAF is causing the powertrain codes, not the other way around. (Of course I could be wrong). It also makes me think of the "old days" and carburetor icing, right down to the fact that if you shut the car off for a few minutes (long enough for ice to melt) the problem goes away. I would think the likelihood of that scenario are zero, (yes, I know it's not carbureted) but is sure acts the same way. As soon as I can I want to clean the filters and the MAFs and see if that helps at all.

Yeah this definitely sounds like a MAF issue. Our MAF's are VERY sensitive...even if the garage scanned it at at time where it may not have been exhibiting it's issue (related to the OP post).

Sroyj, that being said, download the FSM from my signature (FAQ) and I believe there is information in there on the resistance, etc. of the MAF to test it out. That may help you determine if the MAF is spazzing out or not.

Ilya wrote:Yeah this definitely sounds like a MAF issue. Our MAF's are VERY sensitive...even if the garage scanned it at at time where it may not have been exhibiting it's issue (related to the OP post).

Sroyj, that being said, download the FSM from my signature (FAQ) and I believe there is information in there on the resistance, etc. of the MAF to test it out. That may help you determine if the MAF is spazzing out or not.

Thanks. I appreciate it. I'll take a look. Do you know if the code(s) differentiate between the drivers-side vs passenger-side MAFs? I'm getting a P0101.

Not sure. Luckily I've never had an issue with a MAF on either of my M's...only on my previous Nissan Maxima's which have just as sensitive MAF's.

sroyj wrote:Do you know if the code(s) differentiate between the drivers-side vs passenger-side MAFs? I'm getting a P0101.

P0101 - Bank 1 MAF
P010B - Bank 2 MAF

3.7L
Bank 1 - passenger side
Bank 2 - driver side

5.6L
Bank 1 - driver side
Bank 2 - passenger side