So we all know by now that you can buy a USED HICAS Motor for approximately $200.00 from Ebay or others on the Internet to replace your failed HICAS Motor.
But used is just that and the Motor is cheaply made (Shout out to Infiniti and KYB for exceptional quality) and it is not available as a replacement part. You have to buy the whole Rear Steering Assembly. So I did a little of research and found a company that will rebuild our troublesome little HICAS Motors!

Not inexpensive but $265.00 is alot better than $5K to $6.5K!

YOU can remove and reinstall the HICAS Motor. Two Bolts and an Electrical Connector. Back you car up on Ramps and you have easy access. If it takes more than 10 minutes you are lollygagging.

Eurton Electric Co., Inc.
9920 Painter Ave
Whittier CA 90605
ISO 9001:2015

800-423-4789 (main)
562-946-0014 (fax)

-M37SJoe

P.S. I will let you know how this repair service works out. I am quite pleased with myself...

Moving this to Y51 forum as you posted in the Y50 forum.

Update:
Coder reader stated I had a bad Motor (I forget the exact code) and since I had bought an M35 Rear Steering Rack, I replaced the Motor. Code cleared.
Kept getting the code that says the Main and Sub Rear Angle Sensor Voltage Difference was greater than 1 volt.
I tested and retested the Rear Angle Sensor. I also tested the M35 Rear Angle Sensor. Both measured the same and looked the same except for the connector.
M35 has a 6 Pin Connector. M37 has a 4 Pin Connector. You can buy the Connectors, Inserts, Extraction Tool, Insertion Tool, Crimping Tool and it is all alot of cabbage.
So I bought a 4 Pin Connector at a local parts store. Looks similar to a Trailer Wiring Connector. Got up the courage and spliced, soldered, and insulated the wires with heat shrink tubing on the M35 Sensor and the M37 Wiring Harness. Code cleared and has not come back. I have driven the car on 7 different occasions for a total of 75 miles. I would have driven it more but the Y Pipe has a small exhaust leak. I am in the process of acquiring Sport Mufflers and all components from the Cats back. Some new, some used that I am reconditioning (wire brush, rust converter, Hi Temp Primer, Hi Temp Silver Paint).
It looks like the root cause problem has been the connector all along. The question is: Sensor side of the Connector? Car Wiring Harness side of the Connector? How they mate together?
I spoke with an out of town Infiniti Parts Guy (Sport Muffler and other bits) and he said the Connectors are problematic. He said that Infiniti insists they replace the entire Wiring Harness. Sometimes they just change out the connector. Interesting.

You should have taken some pics
Great work
So many people with 4was have some kind of issue or at least some.
I'm sure many will appreciate your work

Andy

Andy,

Thanks for the kind words. The whole point of a Forum is to share information. I should have taken pictures but of course that was not on my mind when splicing and dicing. If anyone has any questions I would be happy to try and help you. I have an Electrical Engineering background so Car Computers, Wiring Harnesses, Motors, and Sensors are not unfamiliar nor intimidating. I used to lurk in the Volvo Forums when I was keeping 240's on the road for my (now grown) children. We are down to one 1992 240. I had a 2001 twin turbo S80 T6. I miss the "woo hoo" when the turbo's spin up. I will say the "woo hoo" of the Tesla Model S P100D with Ludicrous Mode is an even better "woo hoo". Maybe some day Infiniti will offer a performance electric vehicle with 500 mile range.

I doubt it
I've been looking for a vehicle and I'm more impressed with Nissan than Infiniti. That's hard for me to say but it's true in my opinion.

They quit the M/Q platforms if I was them I'd do the Q80 and utilize the twin turbo beast in the GTR and make it a beast BUT THEY WON'T

I'll be getting a Murano this time around