Let me preface this by saying, my brake pads and fluid are both good.

My car is lowered on Coils, with adjustable front upper arms. I am currently in need of an alignment as well and new tires (fronts are low).

You'd think the above is the cause of my issue, but even with the car on jacks, the lights come on with a full turn. I haven't changed anything so I can't really understand why this is happening. I recently removed the front left wheel - inspected and cleaned the ABS sensor - no kinks, it looks good. As I type this maybe I should check the passenger side as well?

Any idea why this might be happening? I don't think it's a speed sensor because it happens when the car is in park....wheel position/angle sensor maybe?

Also, does anyone have the OEM alignment specs? I did a search on here and the pictures are missing from the thread.

Thanks,

It very well could be your ABS sensor. It may be pulling more when you turn all the way left and then not reading the disk in the wheel bearing when it is pulled. I know that when an ABS sensor is not reading it does cause those exact lights to come on
Sensors are stupid expensive for OEMs. No reason to be as I deal with these sensors at work all the time and they are cheap little couple dollar parts that can be sold for $20 and still make a killing. OEMs are around $150 each from what I remember. You can get aftermarket ones though that are something like $30 each and work well. I have aftermarket ones in my car right now.

The other thing I would try is removing the ABS sensors, and blowing compressed air into the port and try and clean out all the brake dust and crap from inside the wheel bearing that may be interfering with the sensor. You could use a hose to flush it out too, as car partys get wet in the rain anyway but I would recommend compressed air just to keep moisture out of the magnetic disk in the wheel bearing to make sure it doesnt form more rust and cause an ABS reading problem down the line from that as well



I dont have default alignment specs, but these are my slightly custom targets:

FRONT Camber: LF -0.3, RF -0.3
FRONT Caster: not adjustable?
FRONT Toe: LF 0.02in, RF 0.02in Total 0.04
Steer Ahead: 0.00


REAR Camber: LR -0.2, RR -0.2
REAR Toe: LR 0.04in, RR 0.04in total 0.08
Thrust Angle: 0.00


The toe adjustments in this help the car track much straighter and removes a good 20-30% of trammlining.



Also, post 2000!!!

EniGmA1987 wrote: ↑

Mon Mar 25, 2019 9:45 am

It very well could be your ABS sensor. It may be pulling more when you turn all the way left and then not reading the disk in the wheel bearing when it is pulled. I know that when an ABS sensor is not reading it does cause those exact lights to come on
Sensors are stupid expensive for OEMs. No reason to be as I deal with these sensors at work all the time and they are cheap little couple dollar parts that can be sold for $20 and still make a killing. OEMs are around $150 each from what I remember. You can get aftermarket ones though that are something like $30 each and work well. I have aftermarket ones in my car right now.

The other thing I would try is removing the ABS sensors, and blowing compressed air into the port and try and clean out all the brake dust and crap from inside the wheel bearing that may be interfering with the sensor. You could use a hose to flush it out too, as car partys get wet in the rain anyway but I would recommend compressed air just to keep moisture out of the magnetic disk in the wheel bearing to make sure it doesnt form more rust and cause an ABS reading problem down the line from that as well



I dont have default alignment specs, but these are my slightly custom targets:

FRONT Camber: LF -0.3, RF -0.3
FRONT Caster: not adjustable?
FRONT Toe: LF 0.02in, RF 0.02in Total 0.04
Steer Ahead: 0.00


REAR Camber: LR -0.2, RR -0.2
REAR Toe: LR 0.04in, RR 0.04in total 0.08
Thrust Angle: 0.00


The toe adjustments in this help the car track much straighter and removes a good 20-30% of trammlining.



Also, post 2000!!!

I really hope this is it, thanks for the Info.... I'll get under there this week and check it out.
Also - do you have a thread on your vehicle? The specs look fun

Shanehsmp wrote: ↑

Mon Mar 25, 2019 10:43 am

I really hope this is it, thanks for the Info.... I'll get under there this week and check it out.
Also - do you have a thread on your vehicle? The specs look fun

I dont have a thread about it. There isnt really anything to see since all the fun stuff is the engine internals. I bought the engine from another member on here who had almost the exact specs on it that I had planned for my dream build and it saved me around 8k buying it used from him. Its already been completely torn down and had some maintenance done on the bearings and crank once since I got it, plus all the minor issues. My lease on my Accord will be up this November and I need a reliable car, so I am actually scheduled at Specialty-Z on the 5th to have the old engine put in and the turbo taken out. This engine needs to be torn down again and inspected, Ill probably have to replace something else major yet again I will ask Sebastian to take some pictures of the engine for you when he is working. I am going to save some money for a couple years just sticking with one car while I get this engine in hopefully more reliable shape. I might try again in another years after the work has been done or maybe end up trying to sell it. My guess is that really a 32psi turbo is probably just too much for it, maybe I should drop down to something closer to 25psi instead. I do need to change my sig a little bit though, I no longer have the modified plenum as it was still too constricting above 6500RPM. I replaced it with a Kinetix velocity manifold which fixed the power wall at the top end. I also am about to change the gears out in the rear diff from the 3.69's of the G37 to a 4.36 set to hopefully give me a bit of that high accel feel when I lose my turbo. I did buy a second diff to do the new gears in though so I have a way to swap back and forth is I dont like the super high gear ratio.

Finally figured it out. My car is on Coilovers and the "holders" for the ABS sensor are pretty crappy causing the wire to be a little loose. Anyone, it turns out that the passenger side sensor was being stretched on every left turn. I removed the sensor, gave the wire some slack, cleaned it and boom, everything was back to normal.