Hello, looking for some help. a few weeks ago at a light my car went from running smooth to running like it is about to cut out under 40mph. I found out cats were bad. 12/20/22 I had them replace 1/5/23 and the car still runs the same? how long does it take for the car to sort out the new cats and exhaust. all OG cats and y-pipe. they been on the car for a day and a half. with min driving about 2o miles work -home. Car still feels like something is clogged. I don't know if our ECU needs to relearn.

Yes I know we need codes. I will try to get them later today. any help is greatly apricated.

Yeah without codes not much we can do right now from a troubleshooting perspective. Alternatively, you could remove your battery terminal for the night and see if that doesn't reset the ECU, etc. but that will also clear your codes...so...

Helllo , just put on new oem cats, the left cat was not tight, had it tighten , cleaned the maf's one was not all the way on. fixed it. evrything is tight and put together no exhaust leaks. Wondering if a ecu reset (battery off) would clear and fix most of these codes??? I know one of the senors on the upper right cat may need to be replace. Any help would be nice before i go to a pepboys/midas/tirekingdom type of place.
these are codes
p010c
p0014
p0024
c1130
b2118

P010C is a "flatline" code for your bank2 MAF, equivalent to P0102 for the b1 MAF. It's a hard code and generally means a bad sensor or wiring issue. It will definitely make the car run badly. Check for voltage across the Blue and Black wires at the sensor, if there's battery voltage present then chances are the sensor is dead.

P0014/P0024 are the mag retarders for the exhaust cams. There's a relearn procedure you can try. If those codes weren't present before the cat replacement then there's a good chance the ECM simply lost its calibration-brains. On a car that age, it's also possible both retarders are just shot. Those codes will cause a limp but not a bad one, the engine should just be down on power.

C1130 is nothing to worry about, it's the ABS saying the ECM isn't sending an RPM signal. That's due to the codes above and will clear itself when the engine codes are resolved.

B2118 is from the memory seat system, it means the tilt angle sensor for the steering wheel is flatlined.

Thank you very much. p010c. the cable on the right maf if you are looking at the engine was not seated properly. fixed heard it click , fixed
p0014/p0024, where not there before. ECM was on when driving car to get the cat/y-pipe replaced. the cel never went off after.
c1130 was not there before cats failed.
b2118. maybe from battery being taking out/unplugged.

I'm more worried about the P0014/P0024 are the mag retarders for the exhaust cams. and how to go about fixing this one. Thank you all for your replay's I really really apricate it. This club has done wonders for us.

Try a relearn first, you don't need anything special for that. Engine fully warm, shifter in N, all electrical loads off, steering wheel in the zero position, hold the RPM between 1800~2000 RPM exactly for at least 20 seconds. If the RPM goes outside that range then bring it back in until you get a full 20 seconds in range.

If that doesn't help, you shouldn't need to replace whole retarder assemblies unless the housings are damaged (and then you could be screwed, because they're probably unavailable). The mag clutch packs should be the same as the Maxima and available as a service part per bulletin NTB12-116. The service part p/n is 23795-JK21A, NissanPartsDeal has them for about $160.

ok thank you . I will try today @lunch.
ok so cel is on now.
start car let warm..
put in neutral and rev too1800-2000rpm for 20-30 sec then turn car off and back on ? or drive for a bit.

Hello all I went to the local auto-zone and did the scan it came back as P0302 misfire in cylinder 2. that was the only code the guy saw, it said that the other 2 codes were associated with it.So the print out said replace spark plug. I did that and the clicking and knocking went away for the 1st 20min of testing
after that the light came back on and the car still runs a bit harsh A neighborhood mechanic said to also change the coil.
I ordered one but was wondering if the coil would be the problem seeing that I have a fresh new plug.

ps, when looking at the engine bank 2 shoul be on the driver side, correct? vq35hr.

rics8 wrote: ↑

Tue Jan 10, 2023 9:30 am

Hello all I went to the local auto-zone and did the scan it came back as P0302 misfire in cylinder 2. that was the only code the guy saw, it said that the other 2 codes were associated with it.So the print out said replace spark plug. I did that and the clicking and knocking went away for the 1st 20min of testing
after that the light came back on and the car still runs a bit harsh A neighborhood mechanic said to also change the coil.
I ordered one but was wondering if the coil would be the problem seeing that I have a fresh new plug.

ps, when looking at the engine bank 2 shoul be on the driver side, correct? vq35hr.

Bad coils and bad plugs are only indirectly related, but In general it's always possible for one to kill the other. A plug that's open-circuit or hard to fire can cause heat to build up in the coil secondary and kill the coil, while a coil producing insufficient firing voltage will eventually foul the spark plug.

That's correct about the banks, it's the same on all VQ's. VK's are the opposite.

Thank you very much for the info. The coil will be here thurs, so friday i will change it. my first real engine work on the car . wasn't has bad as i thought. I think the seating on the coil might not be fully seated, but i will check when i install the new one. It was hard to tell if it needed to click on or be over the lip. I will also post what ever code i got this morning. It ran fine for 20minafter the plug install then the CEL came on yesterday.

Change plug and coil also 2 back cam position senor both codes gone. Car shift hard now. And down shifts when I hit 60 then up shift after 60, weird but at least ecl is off

I went to this tire kingdom since it is the only one close to my house.My cam position senor kept giving me the CEL p0014 cam position sensor bank one so I went and had the four sensors changed. For the past 3 days the same codes keeps popping up after they said they changed all four. I had to explain to the tech that the Infiniti's take four and he tried to tell no I had to show him the diagram of the engine and he still said it was wrong. After the 3-day and waiting another 5hrs, got the car and within 30min of driving regular and hard, the light came on again. I read the code and it was the same code that came on 3 days ago. So I pulled the battery ground cleared all codes drove for 30min again and it came back on with the same code. I cleared it again last night and this morning the light comes back on going to work. Since they worked on my car, it take 30 sec for a push start to turn on. When the car turned on fine before they touched it. They also tried to tell me a brand new 14-day-old battery needed to be replace. Do not know if they changed all four or just to two top easy to get to sensors. So now, after $300.00 I have to go to the dealer and see what they say. I wasted 10hrs and two days for the same results. autozone part# su12938 all 4 it is only bank 1 that keeps throwing the code p0014.

rics8 wrote: ↑

Tue Jan 17, 2023 6:39 am

I went to this tire kingdom since it is the only one close to my house.My cam position senor kept giving me the CEL p0014 cam position sensor bank one so I went and had the four sensors changed. For the past 3 days the same codes keeps popping up after they said they changed all four. I had to explain to the tech that the Infiniti's take four and he tried to tell no I had to show him the diagram of the engine and he still said it was wrong. After the 3-day and waiting another 5hrs, got the car and within 30min of driving regular and hard, the light came on again. I read the code and it was the same code that came on 3 days ago. So I pulled the battery ground cleared all codes drove for 30min again and it came back on with the same code. I cleared it again last night and this morning the light comes back on going to work. Since they worked on my car, it take 30 sec for a push start to turn on. When the car turned on fine before they touched it. They also tried to tell me a brand new 14-day-old battery needed to be replace. Do not know if they changed all four or just to two top easy to get to sensors. So now, after $300.00 I have to go to the dealer and see what they say. I wasted 10hrs and two days for the same results. autozone part# su12938 all 4 it is only bank 1 that keeps throwing the code p0014.

Two of those sensors are for the exhaust cams, which are unrelated to your P0014. P0014 isn't a sensor code, although a spotty cam sensor can cause it. It's a performance code and not a hard code, it indicates the amount of cam advance being read from the sensor doesn't match the amount of advance the ECM is applying to the IVT solenoid. That can be caused by a bad IVT or hydraulic issues in the phaser or timing cover, not just a bum sensor.

I see where they say an oil change may help the issue?
Can it be re-position back by DIY> or it needs a mechaic/autoshop

can a VVT be cleaned? don't know if oil will come out if i take it out o clean it after i do an oil today at 4? Wanted to thank you all for your response.

rics8 wrote: ↑

Tue Jan 17, 2023 8:15 am

can a VVT be cleaned? don't know if oil will come out if i take it out o clean it after i do an oil today at 4? Wanted to thank you all for your response.

Yes, but when there's a clog it's usually in the small passages in the timing cover, not the IVT itself. The IVT can be cleaned just by dunking the whole thing in solvent.

ok, so i am hoping that both can be cleaned with solvent and can/air?

If you use air on the timing cover, be very gentle and make sure the crank is open (oil cap off). There are two tiny o-rings in there and blowing too hard can make the problem worse instead of better.

Hello, so i didn't remove the retader cover. i just took out the vvt and cleaned it. It came back on after about 15 min driving. it is not bucking runs fine under 50-60 didn't push it. I ordered the new VVT so that comes tomorrow and Friday i will install. So far. replaced all 4 sensors autozone part# su12938, oil change (done every 6-mos) did it anyway, cleaned VVT. light came on same code p0014 only, Friday will change VVT and see if that works. last resort get a bank 1 retard cover from the junk yard. Can't afford a 800-1000 dollar part right now begining of the year. spent 4K replacing cats and this work.

I was getting my codes mixed up, sorry. P0014/P0024 are exhaust, so it's a retarder problem.

The retarders largely aren't available anymore, but the mag cores were issued as a service part by Nissan for Maximas, p/n 23795-JK21A. The covers are different for other versions of the VQ's, but I'm pretty sure they all use the same dragger core. Replacing that is a whole lot cheaper than the whole cover, even if there's a difference in the connectors and you need to swap them.

Hello, I will look on amazon for the part. I figured the last issue would be the vvt. After i did the senors and oil change it runs fine under 60, but the light is on with the same code p0014, so i will change the vvt just to say it is out of the way and look for the mag core. Thank a bunch.

Hello found the part on AMazon. for about 180. that will be the last after this VVT change. I hope this is it.
When these cars get past 100k they should say everything needs to be change even if you do regular up keep.

If this car starts going into another $1000 or more I might as well buy the kia stinger.