The battery has been acting up and will need to be replaced. it is housed under the back seat and is accessed by removing the trunk trim - I am a seasoned vet at removing the trim as I thought it was necessary to access the battery to jump it but later found the fuse box terminal method...
My questions:
1) Do I need to but a certain type of battery or will any "good" one do?
2) Lots of electronics in the car what do I have to worry about when replacing the battery?
3) So it is oriented running parallel to the length of the car and looks like a tight fit in it's location any special requirements to get it the old battery out and install the new one?
Thank you fellow NICO members,
Dave
M35H 12V Battery Replacement Questions
Re: M35H 12V Battery Replacement Questions
mac here IBEW electrician / mechanic , I always ,epecially these days with car "features" & accessories - always go with the "BIGGGEST is BEST" .Start with the largest footprint ie. , largest physical size in completely matching the"footprint area " of the base tray , then limited by height dimensions. It's physics man , that this will almost always be the highest "reserve" (most important) , most "cranking" (very very important) etc.If not - obviously put in the superior spec.! Now "sealed" (totally maint. free) vs refillable caps.Latter for easily accessible batts. ,and/or hot/dry climates I still like to be able to chk. & toppoff DISTILLED H2O ; but yours ,in & under a seat you probably want "sealed" no caps ,no maint. to fill. Longest warranty / top of the line battery is smartest I believe. Brands - I don't know any more to steer you. And the optima or AGM ,"absorbed membrane" type may possibly be some advantage (safety ,not prone to leakage ,etc.) in that hidden seat area ?
TIP : chainstores sell a silicone "battery grease" , actually same as their so called "bulb grease" - stuff's bad ,in time it just dries,cakes and can possibly turn "insulating" thus degrading a connection. Only "stuff" in my opinion long term safe for ANY electrical connection's conductive "surface to surface" is Electrical contact spray or better yet electronics De-Oxit spray cleaner,deoxidizer, surface protectant in-one. Otherwize bare connections tight -not stripped tight of course and you may cover with a non-caking spray or grease over OUTER surfaces of the entire battery post , clamp,bolt,any exposed metal/lead surface near battery -COMPLETELY. That gives some peace of mind to those "hidden connections" !
G.T. 2/18/2018
TIP : chainstores sell a silicone "battery grease" , actually same as their so called "bulb grease" - stuff's bad ,in time it just dries,cakes and can possibly turn "insulating" thus degrading a connection. Only "stuff" in my opinion long term safe for ANY electrical connection's conductive "surface to surface" is Electrical contact spray or better yet electronics De-Oxit spray cleaner,deoxidizer, surface protectant in-one. Otherwize bare connections tight -not stripped tight of course and you may cover with a non-caking spray or grease over OUTER surfaces of the entire battery post , clamp,bolt,any exposed metal/lead surface near battery -COMPLETELY. That gives some peace of mind to those "hidden connections" !
G.T. 2/18/2018