M35 starts quick but then dies after 2 seconds [SOLVED - MAF sensor]

[EniGmA1987]

A while ago I got some engine stuff to put into my car, and ended up getting a Honda Accord to drive around while I worked on my Infiniti. Ended up buying a house however and never got to putting the new engine in the M35. Unfortunately while I dealt with house stuff the car has now been sitting for 2 years. Registration will be coming up in 2 more months and Ill have to smog it or file as planned non-operation this year so thats why Im trying to get this going again. Plus I miss driving it. Gas is way better on the Accord, but it is nowhere near as fun to drive.
Before the car sat it needed new valve cover gaskets, so part of getting it going again now I opened up the current engine, put some assembly lube on the camshafts, replaced the gaskets, did an oil change, and put a new battery in. The gas tank was at 1/4 when it was parked, so I put in 5 gallons of new premium gas and also put a bottle of octane booster in for good measure. While dismantling the engine I saw a small rip in the stock air intake just after the MAF, and trying to take it off I ripped it a little more. So instead of replacing with some more stock stuff I installed an Injen cold air intake onto the car. I also replaced the PCV hoses as one of those broke during removal and another had already cracked from age before I even took it off.
When I start the car up it fires up right away when I hit the ignition and sounds good and just like I remember, for the first half a second. After the initial high RPM of engine startup it goes down to idle RPM speed, and once it does this the car sounds really rough and looses RPM until it gets to 300 and then dies over the span of 1-2 seconds. Running Cipher program there are no ECU codes at all, everything checks out good. One thing that I noticed from trying to start it a few times is that it takes 2-3 seconds to die if I leave it alone after hitting engine start, if I press on the gas a second after the car starts it immediately dies as soon as I touch the pedal, and if I start the engine with my foot a bit on the gas it after runs for an extra second or two but extremely rough. I was able to duplicate this behavior every single time I try to start the engine.
Anyone have some advice for where to go from here for things to look at and make sure things are working right? I saw someone on a forum mention unplugging the MAF and try to start the engine, so I figure Ill try that next while I wait for some replies here.


This is a video of the startup:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1sSAy6 ... oftHfXMF-t

[EdBwoy]

The video isn't working for me - error occured. You described it well enough for me to poke at it though.

Too bad the car won't stay running, or I'd have suggested the idle air relearn. (Engine and trans need to be warmed up).

Do you know if your car had the gas pedal recall done?
Whether yes or no, I'd try the throttle and pedal relearn procedures first - they are pretty simple and you might be doing them regularly without knowing.

Then depending on what your MAF experiment says, I'd look at the crank and cam sensors. Just wiggle the connectors and check the sensors for debris.
Say, what happens if you have your foot a little on the gas pedal as you start it, then floor it?

[EniGmA1987]

Alright so as soon as I unplugged the MAF the car started up right away and stayed on. Idle is perfect, very smooth. All seems good! Only issue is with the MAF unplugged the car is limited to under 2500RPM limp mode.
Not sure how well cleaning the sensor works on our hot wire type, so Im guessing with 155k miles on the sensor it is probably best to just buy a new OEM one? Looked at the price on Infiniti Parts USA and it is insanely expensive for the OEM

https://parts.infinitiusa.com/nissanpar ... ode=22680X




So, after seeing the price on that, will a cleaner spray work? Seems way cheaper if it wont damage the sensor:
https://www.autozone.com/miscellaneous- ... /36011_0_0

[04pathse]

well, you could try either an aftermarket brand or remanufactured OEM Nissan for a lot less...


https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R ... 5573.m1684

[EniGmA1987]

well, you could try either an aftermarket brand or remanufactured OEM Nissan for a lot less...


https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R ... 5573.m1684

Im mostly worried about aftermarket brands not having the same voltage curve and causing problems and having to go through a long re-learn procedure.

[ae7456t]

According to RockAuto, the Hitachi is the OE part and looks like it costs about 1/3rd of what InfinitiUSA wants for it...

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/inf ... ensor,5128

[EniGmA1987]

According to RockAuto, the Hitachi is the OE part and looks like it costs about 1/3rd of what InfinitiUSA wants for it...

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/inf ... ensor,5128

Thanks, good to know.

[EniGmA1987]

I bought a used OEM part from a guy 1 city over from me. Not sure how many miles are on it, but mine is 13 years old now and has 155k on it, and this one is the part number that replaced my sensor. So chances are it is at least a little bit newer. Got the part for $15 so I figured it was worth a try. I would go with the Hitachi if this one didnt work.

So I plugged it in this afternoon and the car fired right up. It is idling nice and everything feels good on it. Drove the car around the block a few times and it seems like everything is working.
Now this weekend going to do all my brake stuff.

Thank you for the help everyone