M35 60K. New rotors or not?

[skibumdc]

BACKGROUND:In-laws asked me about brakes on their 05-'06 M35.They couldn't say if they had ever had brakes done because the wife would just bring it to the dealer for scheduled maintenance and pay the bill. Clueless They have approximately 60K on the car.

Since they can't identify if brakes have been serviced or not I was planning on new rotors and pads all the way around, OEM items, and brake fluid flush.

1) Are the new rotors necessary, or overkill?2) Do I need the special tool to push in the rear brake piston or will C-clamp/Channel lock work fine?3) Approximate cost of new rotors and pads? Buy at dealer or online?4) Torque numbers for caliper sliding pin bolts?5) Torque numbers for Caliper retaining bolts?

Thanks

[maxnix]

BACKGROUND:

1) Are the new rotors necessary, or overkill?2) Do I need the special tool to push in the rear brake piston or will C-clamp/Channel lock work fine?3) Approximate cost of new rotors and pads? Buy at dealer or online?4) Torque numbers for caliper sliding pin bolts?5) Torque numbers for Caliper retaining bolts?

1.) Turning each should be sufficient.

2.) Don't know. Consult the FSM.

3.) Call IoS at http://www.infinitipartsusa.comUse OEM pads adn DOT4 fluid. How are you going to acitvate the ABS?

4.) & 5.) Consult the FSM.

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/

[skibumdc]

If I never disconnect the ABS sensor, why would I need to reactivate it?

Or even if I disconnect the sensor, if I have disconnected the battery already, why would I need to reactivate?

I've never had to reactivate on other cars, including the G35.

[maxnix]

If I never disconnect the ABS sensor, why would I need to reactivate it?

Or even if I disconnect the sensor, if I have disconnected the battery already, why would I need to reactivate?

I've never had to reactivate on other cars, including the G35.

The question is, how are you going to flush the old fluid out of the ABS accumualtor and pump so it doesn't destry the ABS unit?

[skibumdc]

The question is, how are you going to flush the old fluid out of the ABS accumualtor and pump so it doesn't destry the ABS unit?

I use a Motive Power Bleeder while the car is turned off.It uses pressure to push new fluid through the lines without hjaving to use 2 people. Lots of people use them.Are you saying that won't work?

I know dome dealers will pulse the ABS to get that last bit of old fluid out of the system, but obviously independent shops don't do this.

Don't you think a regular flush using a Motive power bleeder will be enough?


Modified by skibumdc at 6:38 AM 8/12/2008

[qship96]

Yes, your method will remove the bulk of the old brake fluid, and any small amount of old fluid left in ABS will migrate and mix with the new over time.I would bet you do a more thorough job than 99% of the techs at ANY service department, including your Infiniti dealer.

The beauty of brake fluid being hygroscopic is that any small amount of old fluid containing any moisture that is left in the ABS will be "dried" by the dry new fluid as it equalises any moisture throughout the system.

[maxnix]

All true if the ABS unit is activated in normal driving a few tijmes each year.

[qship96]

Brian, I can mail you some snow next winter to activate your ABS!!!

A few quick stops on wet pavement should suffice for you southerners!!!

[maxnix]

Yeah, or just getting into a corner or ramp a little too hot.
Modified by maxnix at 7:01 AM 8/12/2008

[qship96]

I remember driving a rental car w/o ABS when I was in Vegas years ago, and was shocked how slippery and greasy the roads were due to infrequent rain....was way too easy to lock up the brakes {without even trying to}when coming to a stop.

[Q451990]

Don't forget that the ABS self tests every time the car is driven, so that should mix the fluid some as well. If I recall correctly, T3 doesn't even have the adaptor to modulate the ABS during brake flushes... so I think it's pretty much a non issue.

Heath

[skibumdc]

Thanks a bunch for all your help so far guys.

It's great having FSM's on the web. Most other forums I visit, with the exception of my old Jeep forum, members simply lead you to a retailer to purchase them.

Great advice on cycling the ABS unit. I would not have thought of it.I think the first responder and I simply talked past each other and always had safety and thoroughness in mind.

[bullittandy]

The question is, how are you going to flush the old fluid out of the ABS accumualtor and pump so it doesn't destry the ABS unit?

For Christ's sake man!!!!

Stop scaring new people with this kind of BS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Leaving old lfuid in the ABS unit IS NOT going to "destroy" the unit.

[Jacko3]

My good friend:

If there is still enough meat on the rotors, just turn them. Get the brake fluid replaced at the dealership, and pay the mechanic under the table to slap on the rotors. Cost me 50 bucks to do exactly this at a dealership for my rear brakes on my G.

[szh]

If there is still enough meat on the rotors, just turn them.

As you say, if the width spec is within tolerance, and will stay within tolerance after the procedure ... then yes, go for it!

[maxnix]

Leaving old lfuid in the ABS unit IS NOT going to "destroy" the unit.

And they word "hygroscopic" means? And moisture in brake fluid forms what? And acid does what to seals?

You really need to read more as there are numerous examples on this forum of ABS pumps being replaced due to inadequate brake fluid chang intervals. Please don't post known incorrect information.

[skibumdc]

So basically you are saying replacing 99% of the fluid is just as bad as replacing 0%?Boy, you really are an all or nothing kind of guy, huh?

I would think replacing 99% is MUCH better than the average person, which is exactly whop would have to have the ABS pump replaced.

I think I'll take my chances.

[bullittandy]

And they word "hygroscopic" means? And moisture in brake fluid forms what? And acid does what to seals?

You really need to read more as there are numerous examples on this forum of ABS pumps being replaced due to inadequate brake fluid chang intervals. Please don't post known incorrect information.

Please reference the above posts where the ABS pump failed because the owner regularly changed his brake fluid but each time left a microscopic percentage of old fluid in the ABS pump. Brake fluid moves through the ABS pump, bleed the brakes, engage the ABS and the problem is solved.

Bleed the brakes, engage the ABS=90+% (conservative estimate) of the brake fluid replaced.

OR:

Maxnix's way which is bleed the brakes as normal and then open up the ports on the ABS pump (however thats done by a layman) in order to remove the brake fluid in the pump=100% fluid replaced.

Each member should use the method that jives with their sense of order in the universe.

How 'bout a poll to see which method is preferred and utilized?

[maxnix]

So basically you are saying replacing 99% of the fluid is just as bad as replacing 0%?Boy, you really are an all or nothing kind of guy, huh?

No, that is a flawed deduction. Replacing 100% is better than replacing 99% is the correct deduction. Vigorous driving activating the ABS on deceleration might get that to +99%. I bet the accumulators and pump hold about 5% of the total brake fluid. But I have never seen any actual data.

[jimbyjimb]

You can be totally anal-retentive like SOME members, or do more than 99% of car owners and be satisfied that 1% makes no difference whatsoever. Let the bashing/arguing commence!