Intermittent no crank. I hold the key all the way to start and after holding it there for 2-3 seconds it will crank at normal speed and start. It has done that every 2 years. It seems to go away after I replace the batt. Even though the old one checks good. With the old batt and headlights on I get no yellow during cranking. I read about a blue relay on driverside engine compartment in a Maxima. So it seems the starter/ign switch/relay likes to see lots of current. Some of the positive batt wires are looking a little rusty but I don't think it is the problem.
Factory temp gauge in dash shows higher than normal only in the summer w/ AC on. I will drain and flush burp the air out and see if that fixes it. I have drained and flushed it only 3 times, the last one being 2 years ago. Did not use distiled water or water wetter and used a 50/50 mix. Do the clutchfans fail at 20K mi?
The power antenna sticks. I disconnected the bluewire to the motor. FM is OK but AM sucs. It gets the FM from the winshield ant. I am too old and fat to fit into that trunk and tear out the driverside wall.
I have drained and refilled the trans 4 times. No flush and no pan drop. I used dexron II per manual. Should I use Mobil 1 on this transmission? with a flush and then a pandrop 2 weeks later? Should I bypass the rad cooler or just add a ATF cooler in series? I can't fit a big one in front of the rad as the passenger side of the rad has a e.fan in front. So I am leaning towards a series setup with a small cooler providing I have good flow thru the rad oil lines. Does that transmission have a filter or a screen? I did not see a filter or screen in the mini manual. I think I read all the posts. I don't see too many M's
NOT my mamas car but it IS my Ole Ladys car. lol
