M30 issues

[bang4dabuck]

Power steering pressure hose - highway robbery. Any ideas ?

Climate control display doesn't work ... most of the time. For some strange reason out of nowhere it will kick on. Fixable or replace ? I know where there are a couple M30s in a couple yards.

Speedometer - same thing although it shows flashes more often. Probably go to a GPS rather than replace. It's been broke for 3 years and I've only been pulled over once for a warning.

I been looking thru all the local junkyards for the upholstered back seat, Lumbar section only, BEIGE for a COUPE (no convertibles) no tears or dry rot. Let me know. I'm in Maryland.

I'm thinking my exhaust is going or getting ready to. I got almost 150K on car. Is the cat a goner ? What's a good sounding muffler ?

[mksue3240sx]

Take off the old ps hose, send it out to get rebuilt. way cheaper.

[bang4dabuck]

Hard to find a rebuilder. I am looking at Dan with fujiispl.com that I found on NICO. Anybody else ? Like to find somebody local (DC area) to speed up the process. What do you think of getting one from a junk yard ? Like I said I know where 4 are.

[crash n burn]

replace the p.s. line. i'd be willing to bet the m.a. motorsports ss one, or even the ISIS one would fit.

and the climate control, all digital HVACs of the early 90's had problems with the soldering on the display screen. there's a guy in cali that you can ship it to and he'll re-solder the unit and it'll work like new. me..i just swapped over to the manual setup from the verts when i replaced my dash.

exhuast..just go to a muffler shop and have them put on a 2.5in. you don't have headers i'm sure; so just get a cat and a nice single in twin out muffler with tips. no need for anything ridiculous.

and good luck on the back seats; every single one i've seen or ridden in has the same tears along the top.

[defywhip]

ma motorsports and others like it will NOT work.

m30 has a long a** line, like the sohc 240sx.

it passes under the engine from the rack on the driver side, to the pump on the passenger side.

[gam30]

if you can learn to flare, here's a kind of quick fix.
(i used amazon.com part "73844 16mm" search.) for other choices, search amazon for "16mm banjo 14mm" this will give you cheaper options as long as you can judge how much hose length and pipe length you need. THIS POST IS FOR SPLITTING PIPE TO PIPE CONNECT WITH A NEW HIGH PRESSURE HOSE W/ PIPE. (the other end 14mm 1.50 o-ring is not used. this would normally go to the ps rack) in other words you buy any 16mm banjo hose w/pipe and connect to orginal m30 ps pipe to avoid re-rounting new pipes.(CHECK THE AMAZON PICS CAREFULLY. SOME SAY 16MM BANJO BUT PICS HAVE NO BANJO CONNECT ON EITHER END)

autozone part 91512(300zx 1989 turbo ps pressure line might be a better option)
autozone flare tool 25358/9 $20/$10 double/single flaring. az's parts: 758314(flare union), pax-512 (520,530 etc = diff pipe lengths. get an extra for mistakes and practice flaring) each pax line comes with the 2 flare nuts that connect to flare union(758314) above. just under the hose section of ps hose(under the car) is the pipe you'll cut with pipe/tube cut tool. there are 2- 3inch sections separated by a slight curve. i messed up on the first 3" section b/c i forgot to PUT ON NUT BEFORE I FLARED. can't stress enough. (i used home depot's cheapest tube cutter, but the smallest is better)the 2 original hose clamps on infiniti m30 that kept the pipes bolted to car i didn't reuse bc i didn't plan correctly. i just put the new hose through the first hole on top clamp(original hose was much thicker. you can add extra bushing and tighten i guess) the second clamp is with a phillips screw; that was hell and stripped. i used grip pliers underneath the screw to loosen. this connector holds high pressure and low pressure pipes together. with a larger pipe cutter you'll have to push pipes apart to spin the cutter. get a good clean cut, file smooth the cut.(tube cutter is spun around pipe while tighten cutter knob as you spin cutter until pipe cuts. practice on az's pax-512 lines). only work with absolutely straight pipe, or nut will not go on. original pipe on car is very hard and i couldn't double flare as recommended for high pressure lines. so i single flared. and sinlge flared on new line also.(but new line from amazon is double flareable just make sure you buy a double flare tool. and i guess if needed u can use az's pax lines as extra pipe with double flaring as the only option bc these are thin brake tubes.) banjo hose on top of pump is a size 24mm bolt. a second bolt under that started to loosen with the 24mm, so i used a home depot (532135)husky stubby adjustable wrench to hold that second bolt by letting the stubby wrench buck against a metal plate by the ps resevoir under the old ps hose. you'll then loosen clamp holding hose and remove cut hose. my new amazon hose came with 2 new copper washers for above and below banjo connection. (fyi internet reading also says you can heat old copper washers and let cool to restore for a second use.) so you do your best so new pipe is heading straight (and is straight) to old ps pipe line. PUT YOUR NUTS ON(from cutting and taking nuts of the pax lines) new ps pipe, nut on old m30 ps pipe. THEN YOU FLARE. flare tool comes with pic and is pretty simple. old pipe is hard and needs lotsa torque. autozone's cheap tool uses size 13mm socket. i used standard ratchet and socket. put the pieces of the flaring tools 5/16th hole around old pipe the pipe edge should just be even with tool. tighten one side first, then the other side. the flaring tool didn't like the old pipe(very tough). once tightened it still had a little gap between the pieces holding the pipe together. i tried to use vice grips to finish sqeezing the tool pieces together where it holds the m30 5/16 pipe. then i attached the anvil part of the flaring tool and torqued till pipe looked flared. thread the new hose down through clamp and use your best guess as to which way to attach banjo to pump. put on banjo hose on pump with 2 new copper washer and bolt on. (service manual says 24mm bolt 49-69 N, (5.9-7.0 kg, 36-51lb) second nut, if loosened is 69-78 N (7.0-8.0 kg, 51-58lb)) i used my judgement on all connections. then work new pipe to head straight to old pipe. NO CURVES WHERE NUTS GO ON PIPE, OR THEY WILL NOT GO ON PIPE OR GIVE ENOUGH PIPE SPACE TO FLARE. put nuts on pipes, PUT NUTS ON PIPE, put nuts on pipe, then flare! (good thing there's some pun here. hope you'll remember this step.) bend new pipe if needed (a pipe bending tool could be useful, but if using your hand caution not to bend to a crimp) leave the area where the join nut will go very straigth about the last 4 inches. cut the pipe on your new pressure hose. put on nut and flare it same as other pipe(i used single flare you can double if you choose, but practice on extra pipe that is cut off the new pipe. the section that you wont be using. practice makes perfect.) you'll end up with 2 pipes flared and nuts on facing each other. stick the pipe ends into the union(758314) nut and check they fit good. attach both pipe nuts to this union. this is a metal to metal contact connection that seals. use your judgement when tightening. internet articles warn of overtightening and splitting the pipe. other than that its making a clean pipe cut and filing off any burrs, and your flares should look pretty straight. fill up and check for leaks.

amazon search "53780 16mm" hose might work also. $20

[mksue3240sx]

there is a company called pyrtech that rebuilds any type of hydraulic hoses. they are mobile and do alot of work at airports. i suspect anywhere there is an airport there is some kind of company that rebuilds them. they also do alot of forklift stuff.