LS1 to S Chassis clutch discussion

[Joe]

the stock clutch master cylinder from nissans isnt strong enough to engage a LS1 clutch. so most people do an alternative of a tilton firewall mount clutch master. which seems to be the hardest part of the swap! picture for reference.



in my infinite wisdom (or lucky brainstorm while ebaying earlier) i thought about this instead.



whole thing would cost 125$ and be 1000 times easier to mount in car. just remove the whole factory clutch pedal assembly, drill 2 holes in the floor, put a plate under the car. and bolt it up. then run your new hardline through the firewall and out to the clutch.

any thoughts?

[evildky]

I think you'll find that to be harder, the floor isn't flat and swuare where you need it to be, you can buy tilton and wilwood hangine pedals as well but that would be harder than mojnting an universal master on the firewall

honestly I'm not very familiar with the way the stock one works, i just know there is a small booster under the dasha nd a master cylinder outseide the firewall, on my 71 the howe racing universal mounts right up, the clevis si the same and the bolt spacing is close enough it slides in, I wound up not swapping as I didn't want to have to redo the clutch lines, the datsun uses metric with the 45 inverted brake flare where as the aftermarket racing units seem to all use SAE brake flares

[240DRFT]

you could always brace the floor, like put a big flat, rectangular piece of sturdy metal down.

[Joe]

well the floor in a s chassis is made of tinfoil, so those little bumps are no big deal. (i recently had to "clearance" for my side exhaust and was scared how easy it was to move and bend)

and putting a metal plate down on top of AND under the car, then bolting it together would make for a super sturdy base.

its just people are saying 3-4 hours just to install the tilton firewall mount unit, i think this could be done in under an hour.

[WDRacing]

I think "custom" parts and DIY idea's are the BEST way to do the LS1 bro. I was looking at all kinds of different idea's. I'm going auto with a stall, so I don't have the clutch problem.

Making a custom bracket for the floor to place the clutch peddle anywhere you want it is easy. I could jig one up with card board and have it fabbed in a day...if I had a garage again...*sobz*.

If we can get this to happen, alot of people will benefit from the idea.

WD

[574-240sx]

I'm going to try the willwood master then get the mounting kit. I may have to drill new holes in the firewall to make it work and some small fab stuff.

[Joe]

well after talking to a few other people it seems like its not nearly as hard as some people made it sounds. just requires the quick fabrication of an adapter plate for the wilwood master.

and brian, you are not putting a sissy stick (automatic) in.

[WDRacing]

I don't drift bro...I drive as fast as I can in a straight line. Auto's are super quick in the 1/4. Besides...dude, tell me you're not tired of a stick driving around Tucson!!!

A nice single turbo with a 3000rpm stall converter...yep, sounds like heaven to me.

[Joe]

i know you dont, this has nothing to do with drifting.

this has to do with the fact automatic transmissions are gay and no fun to drive.

sure, if you are bracket racing, it will be more consistent. but dosent change the fact its gay.

[WDRacing]

Hmm....go ****yourself

[Joe]

[whiterps13]

I vote auto=gay

[mtcookson]

auto=gay

Man law?

[WDRacing]

If either of you guys had a history with drag racing I might consider your opinion but...you don't.

Auto = speed+consistant = wins

[mtcookson]

You do know some of the fastest drag cars run a manual transmission, right?

I believe the very fastest like the top fuel cars don't even use one. They just have a clutch and direct drive to the rear.

Some of the funny cars making in the 3,000+ hp range use a manual transmission.

I would agree that a built auto transmission would be able to shift faster than someone with a standard H-pattern manual transmission but when it comes to a sequential manual transmission, the differences start to diminish

Bracket racing is where autos will have a bit more of an advantage... but... bracket racing doesn't seem to be fun at all. It gives an advantage to slower cars racing faster cars but that's dumb too.

[stan d]

I used a tilton mc for my clutch setup I made an adapter that bolts to the stock 240 pedal assembly and then drilled and tapped the holes to bolt the tilton unit to it I used a 90 degree fitting on the end to clear the strut tower. the just ran braded line to the slave cyl.

What did you do for the oil pan use a GTO set up?

stan91 sil-80 with a LT1

[WDRacing]

Look, I'm not a retard and have been building/racing for awhile. My point is this, auto's are not gay and that statement is ignorant at best.

If I like auto's, does that make me gay? No, it means I like auto's and your opinion doesn't matter to me. Simply think a tad before you make a blanket statement like auto's are gay.

If you think that the manual trannies in a Top Fueler are simple manual trannies, then you're an idiot. Using that as an example is lame. I was referring to street level cars, like the GN etc.

WD

[crzycav86]

Look, I'm not a retard and have been building/racing for awhile. My point is this, auto's are not gay and that statement is ignorant at best.

If I like auto's, does that make me gay? No, it means I like auto's and your opinion doesn't matter to me. Simply think a tad before you make a blanket statement like auto's are gay.

If you think that the manual trannies in a Top Fueler are simple manual trannies, then you're an idiot. Using that as an example is lame. I was referring to street level cars, like the GN etc.

WD

autos are gay

[WDRacing]

autos are gay

You're from Texas...obviously your opinion doesn't count

[cnichols]

That part # is the Russell fitting that replaces the GM Quick disconnect and has a male -3AN fitting on the end. You have to remove the tension pin first and it comes right out. *NOTE: The Russell package comes with two. One did NOT fit. Not sure if they were supposed to be identical or not, but there was a slight difference between the two. One fit pefect, the other would not go in.

Installed...



The entire assembly off the car. I wanted as few connections as possible so I could limit the possibilities for leakage. All ends are crimped onto the stainless teflon line. I purchased the bleed line as a total package from an LS1 Tech member (steve-d). The length allows for the end to mount near the master cylinder so that it can be bled as the master cylinder is filled and you will never have to get under the car. It also came with an Earl's speed bleeder on the end.



Both lines installed into the slave cylinder...



At the master cylinder end, I used a 3/8"-24 thread banjo bolt with the other end crimped to the line. I believe you can buy this with a -3AN line if you don't crimp it...



Wilwood Clutch Master Cylinder 3/4 in. (Part #:WIL-260-1304) from Summit

[574-240sx]

That part # is the Russell fitting that replaces the GM Quick disconnect and has a male -3AN fitting on the end. You have to remove the tension pin first and it comes right out. *NOTE: The Russell package comes with two. One did NOT fit. Not sure if they were supposed to be identical or not, but there was a slight difference between the two. One fit pefect, the other would not go in.

Installed...



The entire assembly off the car. I wanted as few connections as possible so I could limit the possibilities for leakage. All ends are crimped onto the stainless teflon line. I purchased the bleed line as a total package from an LS1 Tech member (steve-d). The length allows for the end to mount near the master cylinder so that it can be bled as the master cylinder is filled and you will never have to get under the car. It also came with an Earl's speed bleeder on the end.



Both lines installed into the slave cylinder...



At the master cylinder end, I used a 3/8"-24 thread banjo bolt with the other end crimped to the line. I believe you can buy this with a -3AN line if you don't crimp it...



Wilwood Clutch Master Cylinder 3/4 in. (Part #:WIL-260-1304) from Summit

Thats the same way I'm going but I ran a -3AN line all the way to the master. I'm still waiting on my Russell fittings.

[cnichols]

Thats the same way I'm going but I ran a -3AN line all the way to the master. I'm still waiting on my Russell fittings.

Yeah, so did I. The lines you see are both -3AN. When I said you could also buy it with a -3 line, I meant the banjo end instead of having it crimped. Poor choice of wording on my part.

But, in the pic with the part #, you'll notice that it says -3AN on it.