Lowering a G50

[DrewQ45]

I'm ready to drop my 90' but am wondering whether I should go the DIY route or fork out to have it done by a shop. I have a set of California Customs to install. I know I'll need some spring compressors and possibly other equipment. A while back I remember reading something about the correct way to orient the springs. If memory serves me correctly, someone had put the springs in wrong and kept hearing clunking/popping noises. I'm trying to avoid this at all costs. Any advice would be appreciated.

...Drew....

[Jeff Williams]

get a loan a tool spring compressor from Advance Auto. Use a compressor to crank it down on the spring. Take your time, do one at a time take a few pictures of the OEM spring in the bucket and compare it to the CC spring when you are done.

It is not hard.

If you don't have adjustable upper links, then kiss your tires goodby. You will not be able to get the front-end aligned within specs without adjustable links. Same thing on the rear, you need adjustable upper linls.

[DrewQ45]

If you don't have adjustable upper links, then kiss your tires goodby. You will not be able to get the front-end aligned within specs without adjustable links. Same thing on the rear, you need adjustable upper linls.

Thx Jeff... I plan on shimming the fronts with flat washers, but am not sure if the same can be done with the rears.

...Drew...

[q45VIP]

Thx Jeff... I plan on shimming the fronts with flat washers, but am not sure if the same can be done with the rears.

...Drew...

You should'nt have a problem with wearing out your tires with a drop from springs.As long as you have your toe corrected.You can also correct your rear camber with the stock adjustment bolt if you want.Im running almost 4 degrees of - camber in the rear with no wear problems.Front about -2.75 with minimal wear.

[Rex]

Just sell me the springs and stay stock height .

Do the work youself and then pay a good shop to do an alignment.

[DrewQ45]

Just sell me the springs and stay stock height

Don't think I'm not tempted!

[maxnix]

Don't think I'm not tempted!

Might check out Q45tech's post on lower outer tie rod joints also from a Z32 to reduce wear from lowering.

I may be interested in your springs if you do lower as some day I hope ot have some made up that are stiffer but don't drop more than 1/2".

[DrewQ45]

Might check out Q45tech's post on lower outer tie rod joints also from a Z32 to reduce wear from lowering.

I may be interested in your springs if you do lower as some day I hope ot have some made up that are stiffer but don't drop more than 1/2".

What do the Z32 tie-rods do that a Q45's can't? They are both adjustable for toe. My tie rods (inner and outer) are relatively new. I'm trying to keep costs down and not buy a whole bunch of $ht just to lower. I might not even like it and wanna switch back. Pursuant to that, you can acquire my springs if all goes well.

...Drew....

[sijoko]

You can get the spring compressor from Autozone for free. You pay them the money for it and when you return it, they refund everything.

When you install the new springs, pay attention to the orientation of the studs on the hat. Otherwise, you'll find that the mounting points don't line up and you'll have to compress the spring again to rotate the hat.

After you lower the car, you can adjust for camber in the front by using 7/16" washers behind the upper link mount. Try to get the ones that are consistent in thickness. I found some at Autozone that are very good quality. You have to put an equal number of washers over each bolt. Also, don't put so many that you don't have enough thread engagement after everything is bolted up.

You should measure the camber before you do anything. You might find that one side has more than the other. This will usually be the case even after the new springs are installed. For my car, two washers per bolt moved the camber .5 degrees.

[DrewQ45]

You can get the spring compressor from Autozone for free. You pay them the money for it and when you return it, they refund everything.

When you install the new springs, pay attention to the orientation of the studs on the hat. Otherwise, you'll find that the mounting points don't line up and you'll have to compress the spring again to rotate the hat.

After you lower the car, you can adjust for camber in the front by using 7/16" washers behind the upper link mount. Try to get the ones that are consistent in thickness. I found some at Autozone that are very good quality. You have to put an equal number of washers over each bolt. Also, don't put so many that you don't have enough thread engagement after everything is bolted up.

You should measure the camber before you do anything. You might find that one side has more than the other. This will usually be the case even after the new springs are installed. For my car, two washers per bolt moved the camber .5 degrees.

Thanks man... good advice.

What did you use to measure camber? Any adjustments to rear?

[sijoko]

Thanks man... good advice.

What did you use to measure camber? Any adjustments to rear?

I've got a digital camber gauge that racers use. That plus a toe bar allows me to do my own alignments.

The rear has built-in adjusters but they don't have enough range for my taste. I replaced the upper control arms with Stillen RUCA for the 300zx.

[DrewQ45]

Thanks to all that contributed to this thread. The advice is well taken.

[silver2k2]

Are these the washers you used?

http://www.napaonline.com/Mast...asher

Two of these would be .65 X 2 = .130

Or should we used metric m12 (may be a little loose on the bolt)

http://www.napaonline.com/Mast...asher2.5 mm > inches = .0984 X 2 = .19 inches which

0.181508344408888531084848040058081" is the correct shim thickness for 0.8 degree correction.....sine of angle [0.0139621803391452716219113876967755] times 13" - Q45Tech

Or the Metric M10http://www.napaonline.com/Mast...asher

2mm .07874in X 2 = .15748

so these are a little less then needed .08 degree of correction for a 1" lowered car right.

I am confused

[Q45tech]

When you lower you change the tie rod angle so you move to a nonsymetrical part of the toe curve and create bump steer. Using a shim on tie rod end [1/2-1"] equal to lowering amount brings tie rod back parallel with road.

[silver2k2]

I though the idea was to shim out the top 4 bolts on the rear upper link mount

[Q45tech]

That's to decrease the lowering increased camber............................everything changes when the body is lowered.......camber, caster, toe, even the oil and transmission pan.

[silver2k2]

Of course I plan to get the car aligned put planned to put the washers in first to give the alignment guy at least a chance of getting it close while on the rack

[mxr662]

I used the spring compressor from Autozone last weekend to install my stock springs on my new blues. It was very easy. Mark where the end of the coil on top is on the hat. It is obvious where the bottom of the spring goes. I replaced my rubber spring seats on the top.

[ponzy]

don't try to use a knockoff's spl FUCA. i've used a set and im suspecting thats the culprit that messed up my wheel bearing (DS).... though im not 100% sure....

spl's FUCA was discontinued for no reason....anyone can source out brand new spl FUCA?

Don't think I'm not tempted!

let me know if you went the other way.... i'm very interested