Post by
fitofitin »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/fitofitin-u120319.html
Mon Nov 17, 2008 11:50 am
Try to see if there is another cylinder giving you problems.
This is what I have learned. A simple step to find it: run the car and start to unplug the spark plug wires, one by one.
The idle speed will diminish strongly, and the smoothness too, with each wire removal, this is normal.
But when you have a bad cylinder you will notice very little or no change at all. When you unplug a wire and that occurs, then you found the bad cylinder.
For that cylinder you should perform these tests in different stages: ignition test, fuel test and compression test.....
Compression shouldn't be a problem since the gaskets are new, though.
When doing a compression test and you detect problems, the most likely causes here would be a leaky valve (probably an exhaust valve since they run much hotter than intake valves and usually fail or "burn" first), a blown head gasket (which shouldn't be the actual problem this case), or a rounded or badly worn cam lobe.
Also perform a leakage test. Air leakage through the exhaust port would indicate a bad exhaust valve. Air leakage back through the intake manifold would indicate a bad intake valve. Air leaking into an adjacent cylinder would indicate a blown head gasket. Minimal leakage would indicate a rounded cam lobe.
Leaky valves would require removing the cylinder head and having a valve job performed. A leaky head gasket would require removing the head and replacing the gasket (and probably resurfacing the head to restore flatness, so check this out for your new gaskets. Are they sitting properly?). A cam problem would require removing and replacing the camshaft and lifters (old lifters should never be reused with a new cam).
Hope this helps. Good luck