Lots of leak

[Rubyz32]

96 auto, large amounts of oil (yes its oil) leaking from front of engine. Hard to tell, but it looks like it's below the heads. Crank pulley is covered in oil as well as the water pump and pulley. I have a pretty good idea of what it is, but I'm looking for any opinions anyone might have. I'm looking to buy the car as a dd. If it's just a crank seal, the whole timing belt job needs to be done right? Thanks for all your help.

[z.Leinbach]

my vote would be cam seals gone out and vtc seals if those years have it

[rgregoryb]

Do a 120k timing belt replace all should be good

[Rubyz32]

Thanks rgregoryb, that's exactly what I was leaning towards. Just needed to hear(read) someone else say it.

[elecfus]

if the timing belt is covered in oil, degreaser wont hurt it. just hit it with a few cans of degreaser and some rags, take it for a test drive and see where the oil is coming from.

oil leaks are often the result of a long term unresolved cooling problem. factor in a transmission filter/flush, a few oil changes a radiator, hose kit, turbo rebuild and sensor replacements into your final purchase price. a 20yo z32 is really a project car. for it to get to that point it's probably already been a dd being run into the ground until it now runs in limp mode and/or knock maps now. turbos are limited to 7psi when knocking. for it to get as bad as you suggest, it tends to indicate the previous owner is the type to thrash it AND only refill the oil when the oil light comes on so dont expect any of the internals to be in great shape.

get a consult cable or ask the seller if you can run it down to a service station to check the codes, on the way run it up to 6000rpm a few times to see if it's willing to throw a rod. if you get no codes after giving it a bit of a beating, it'll just be a seal and you can probably get away with just a timing belt, seal, roller and tensioner kit.

just be aware that oil melts EPDM and electrical insulation so you're going to want to replace any EPDM hoses, engine mounts, steering bushings and vacuum hoses that were covered in oil and check your wiring harness where it's covered in oil.

[DCaff300ZX]

if the timing belt is covered in oil, degreaser wont hurt it. just hit it with a few cans of degreaser and some rags, take it for a test drive and see where the oil is coming from.

oil leaks are often the result of a long term unresolved cooling problem. factor in a transmission filter/flush, a few oil changes a radiator, hose kit, turbo rebuild and sensor replacements into your final purchase price. a 20yo z32 is really a project car. for it to get to that point it's probably already been a dd being run into the ground until it now runs in limp mode and/or knock maps now. turbos are limited to 7psi when knocking. for it to get as bad as you suggest, it tends to indicate the previous owner is the type to thrash it AND only refill the oil when the oil light comes on so dont expect any of the internals to be in great shape.

get a consult cable or ask the seller if you can run it down to a service station to check the codes, on the way run it up to 6000rpm a few times to see if it's willing to throw a rod. if you get no codes after giving it a bit of a beating, it'll just be a seal and you can probably get away with just a timing belt, seal, roller and tensioner kit.

just be aware that oil melts EPDM and electrical insulation so you're going to want to replace any EPDM hoses, engine mounts, steering bushings and vacuum hoses that were covered in oil and check your wiring harness where it's covered in oil.

THIS.
As mentioned, most likely you will find more problems than anticipated (and reported) and therefore this would not be a great way to go, unless as noted you are OK with a project car...

[Rubyz32]

Thanks for bringing me down to earth. It's such a nice car. All original. 96 n/a 4seater. Everything is there. However I have one in the garage already that is a project and the wife hates me for it. Lol. A dd is what I need, not a project. Thanks again guys.