lost in the bog

Post by **woodonastick** » Sun Jan 25, 2004 10:07 am

i was rolled up to my friend's FC and he revved at me! obviously i revved back, but when i did, my car started to bog and drop 300 rpms... so i back off the "race".

anyways, wats wrong with my car?

i just changed my fuel filter, removed AIV, cleaned throttle body, changed oil, MAF working, grounding isn't bad, O2 sensor isn't bad.

what the he** is going on?

Post by **SienSil80** » Sun Jan 25, 2004 10:07 am

Have you checked your plugs, wires, and coil? It could be a misfire or ignition problem. That's what it sounds like to me.

Post by **D1SR240** » Sun Jan 25, 2004 10:07 am

i'm having the same probolem

Post by **woodonastick** » Sun Jan 25, 2004 10:07 am

i just changed plugs, and my wire is in good shape.

ive notice im getting bad gas miles, smelling fuel after ignition.

so im running rich too, how can i fix and wat else can be my problem...

oh yea, my head gasket looks like SH** too.

Post by **jEzTeR** » Sun Jan 25, 2004 10:07 am

What about the cat?It might be all cloged up.My buddy has a s13 that is doing the same thing.He is going to check out his cat next week to see if that is whats causing the problem, if so it will be an easy fix.

Post by **woodonastick** » Sun Jan 25, 2004 10:07 am

cool thanks, maybe ill go to the Pick-N-Pull later this week

Post by **SienSil80** » Sun Jan 25, 2004 10:07 am

I wouldn't think it would be the cat, if it was clogged it would cause bogging randomly, not always at a certain rpm...unless that's whats happening (random). Give it a looks then. If it is only at a set rpm and does it all the time, give your TPS a look, you could have a dead spot on the resistor in there.

Post by **woodonastick** » Sun Jan 25, 2004 10:07 am

well, it is random, and it only occurs when the car is warm. when the car is cold, it would drive like it just strolled off the nissan lot.

Post by **mikeG** » Sun Jan 25, 2004 10:07 am

Check the pickup screen on your fuel pump. If you have a bunch of crap in your tank, it can cause fuel flow problems, resulting in poor running conditions. when its cold, the sediment in the tank (if there is any) has settled out, and the problem is less. However, by the time the car is warm, all the crap in the bottom of the tank has been stirred up and can get sucked to the screen.

Even if thats not your problem, it is a good idea to check the tank for sediment, and change the screen because it might be original. If the pump doesn't have to work as hard, it may last longer.

Also, get an FSM- they are great.

Post by **woodonastick** » Sun Jan 25, 2004 10:07 am

to get to my fuel pump. i go through my trunk right?

just want to be sure, hehe

Post by **mikeG** » Sun Jan 25, 2004 10:07 am

yup.

1. Open trunk.

2. Pull back carpet on right side.

3. Disconnect connector under panel near wall.

4. Unscrew bolts in squareish panel in floor.

NOTE!!!!: At this point you will need to disconnect TWO (2) hoses. AT LEAST ONE (1) OF THEM IS UNDER PESSURE!!! To release pressure: start car (with connector disconnected) and let run until dead. Try to start car another 3-4 times. Fuel pressure should be close to zero, but be careful anyway.

5. Disconnect the two hoses you see on the access panel into fuel tank. NOTE WHICH ONE GOES WHERE!!!

6. Unscrew the bolts holding the panel into the top of the tank.

NOTE!!! You are now looking directly into a confined space containing a FLAMMABLE VAPOROUS LIQUID. Make sure you have good air circulation and NO OPEN FLAMES.

7. Remove panel, being careful to not bend the fuel gauge sending unit.

The screen is the rectangular whitish thing on the bottom of the fuel pump.

8. CAREFULLY take a flashlight and look into the tank. It should be shiny and clean. If not, make plans to pull the tank and have it cleaned. A dirty tank can lead to power problems, and shortened fuel pump/ filter life.

Reinstallation is the reverse of dissasembly.

I CANNOT STRESS SAFETY ENOUGH. I have heard too many stories of people getting messed up because they were stupid around flammables. Respect the fuel or it will make you its ***** in about 1/10th of a second, and you dont move that fast.

Post by **SienSil80** » Sun Jan 25, 2004 10:07 am

hm, well if it's cold your car's ECM is still running on open loop (not listening to 02 sensor for air/fuel ratio information) and therefor will run the car on a base set air/fuel ratio given to it to run on from the factory for cold mornings when the 02 sensor hasn't gotten warm enough to send pulses to the computer. That would lead me to believe it has something to do with your 02 sensor but you said you just replaced them. Have you checked your ECM 02sensor input or 02 sensor signal output wire to see if it's even sending pulses? If your car is running rich like that and randomly bogging it definately sounds like an air/fuel problem.

Post by **woodonastick** » Sun Jan 25, 2004 10:07 am

ok, ill check that out too

Post by **jEzTeR** » Sun Jan 25, 2004 10:07 am

Great Trouble shooting help people!;)

Post by **SienSil80** » Sun Jan 25, 2004 10:07 am

Also, be aware with the multitester that the 02 sensor's signal is very very low, so be sure to have it on the right range. When the 02 sensor gets hot enough to start producing it's own signal, it should range from 500mv to 1000mv(1 volt) depending on what it's reading from the exhaust. This also just occured to me, did you replace your 02 sensor with one-size-fits-all version or with an oem replacement. Reason why I ask is that the wires might have improper shielding. Since the voltage in an 02 sensor wire is so low, it easily piggybacks other AC signals in the air from other engine accessories causing it to fool the ECM. If you did get a one size fits all model it could have improper shielding against those AC signals present in your car and thus you end up with random jerking problems and rich conditions.

And when you're checking your 02 sensor be sure not to mix up the wires, it could be a heated 02 sensor. If it is, there should be 3 or so wires, (1 power for heater, 1 for heater ground, 1 for 02 signal). They do this so that the car can go into closed loop faster. For the power to the heater wire just use the voltage tester to see something like 8-12 volts present during warm up, check the ground with the ohm meter to see if there is continuity. then voltmeter on the signal wire once its warmed up. Let me know how it goes

Post by **nissanrcer240** » Sun Jan 25, 2004 10:07 am

My car used to do that, I was told that it was my AAC valve that needed to be cleaned or replaced and it should be fine. Theres a thread here somewhere that shows you where it is and how to go about cleaning it or whatever.

Post by **woodonastick** » Sun Jan 25, 2004 10:07 am

my idle is fine. a nice smooth idle, untill i accel. it boggs and feels like its gonna stall. matter of fact, it did...twice...as an automatic...

well, i was talking it over with my friend earlier, he said it was becuase i nuetral drop it too much

wat u think?

lost in the bog

lost in the bog

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