loose clutch pedal and can not get into gear

[aziankingz]

Hi,

Just when I thought the car was better another problem pops up! When I was driving around 2 days ago, it was great, just that I noticed the pressure of the clutch pedal was loose. After going to pick something up, I started the car as normal and the clutch pedal was about 2 inches off the floor and was very to hard to get it into gear, but drivable.

Yesterday, I took a look at the pedal and it was still 2 inches off the floor and when I tried to adjust the pedal to its normal position with my hand it would fall back down. I checked the master cylinder fluid and it was filled to the top, but was a brownish clear tint. I started the car and tried to get it into gear, but it would not engage into any gears! Could air in the line or leaks cause this or is there something more to it?

[NizzmoS13]

It could be air in the lines, I would bleed that first. If that doesnt work it could be your clutch master clyinder failing and you would have to buy a new one. I actually had the same problem as you where my cluth pedal died on me and would hit the floor and never come back up, changed the clutch master clylinder and it was back.

[skrappy]

ya bleed the clutch lines first. If that doesnt work you can buy a new master cylinder or buy a rebuild kit. rebuild kits only cost like $15-$20. Almost sounds like your piston seal has gone bad in the master cylinder. Happened to me before. Takes like 30 min. to rebuild it and slap it back on and should be good to go. Good luck

[gumby74]

Thanks to my 1 year old slave cylinder taking a dump on me, I almost got t-boned by a bus.The m/c will start to leak brake fluid down the inside of the firewall when it goes out. The slave cylinder will just fail, unless the little boot gets torn. Both can be replaced for about $40 with fresh fluid.Check the slave cylinder. Though if not already done, you may as well replace both pieces at once.

[aziankingz]

thanks guys..i will have to try this when i have time..and even then it would be a ***** since i park on the street. hopefully, it is a simple air in the lines problem..i want to try to reroute the lines so they connect from slave to master directly without going to the dampener box. Any advice on how to do this without breaking the line..keep in mind it is about 30 degrees outside and parked on a street..

[1unar3clipse]

SPL parts sells a Clutch block bypass, I got it awhile ago and it gave a much firmer feeling.

although If I could go back and do it again I would probably get a conversion clutch cable, and lose the stupid hardline and replace with baller-ness.

[aziankingz]

lol ballerness..i saw braided lines on ebay for 40 bucks..thats just crazy! yeah the hardlines can be a *****..especially if you plan to bend/redirect them..

[emo_tactical9]

My s12 did the same thing. It was the slave cylinder.

[PapaBurgundy]

My 240 did the same thing to me in the middle of a 4 hour drive the day I bought it Bled it and it was fine. Easy way to tell if your master is dead is to take out the line, plug the hole with a bolt the same size ( the plastic cracks easy, be careful ) and push the pedal. If it goes to the floor its your master cylinder.

[SR24DET]

I had the same problem and i replaced both my master cylinder and my salve cylinder and it worked but i also removed my damper box. It was pretty easy. I did some research and i found a step by step, with pictures on the net by doing a search through google. I did it wrong the first time by undoing the damper and trying to bend the hardline with my hand but i kinked it. I had to go buy a new line but they dont sell the right length anymore so i had to custom make a new one. If i were you, go to your local auto parts store. Buy a tiny pipe bender. there only $4 or $5. then just disconnect the line from your damper and use your pipe bender to bend it the other way and connect it to the soft line going to the slave cylinder. pretty easy.

FYI trying to bleed your clutch line isnt the easiest cause the damper gives many people problems.

[aziankingz]

i had time to look at the car today and did notice a lot of wet spots under the driver side..i tried to bleed it but that damn bleeder bolt is seized!!! i can not jack the car up either bc the metal keeps bending in..arrgh!!! so i can not get under the car and can not unbolt the bleeder valve..any advice?

[Spectre_240sx]

When you're having problems like this, the best thing to do is get the clutch linkage replaced. Generally, when one of the cylinders is failing, the other isn't far behind. Also, it's a closed-circuit system, so if you're getting air in the lines, you've got a problem with one of the cylinders. I got a replacement master and slave cylinder plus a braided stainless line from FRSport all for about $100.00. Even if you have to pay a shop to do the install, it's well worth the money. You won't believe the difference it makes.

[aziankingz]

yeah i think i will need to get it to a shop somehow..i bought the slave cylinder but didnt have a chance to put it on since space was very limited under the car! if only i had a better jack when you put on the braided SS lines, do you connect it from the end of the master cyl line to the slave cly or is it a whole new line starting from the beginning of the master cyl connecting to the slave cyl? do you have any pics of what you did as that would help a lot!

[emo_tactical9]

i had time to look at the car today and did notice a lot of wet spots under the driver side..i tried to bleed it but that damn bleeder bolt is seized!!! i can not jack the car up either bc the metal keeps bending in..arrgh!!! so i can not get under the car and can not unbolt the bleeder valve..any advice?

Metal keeps bending?

[TwinCityTech]

Get new master and slave cylinders, ditch the junky clutch dampening box, and bleed the ever living fire outta the system. Worked for me + I gotta lifetime warranty on the parts. There are a few ways to bypass that box and I would recommend the aftermarket flex line.

[aziankingz]

the metal part under the side skirt where you jack the car up with..

yeah im looking into doing the damper box reroute soon.. when you get the braided line do you connect the end of the master cy line to the slave cyl?

this would all be done if that darn bleeder valve bolt would unloosen and open...any advice to get it to unbolt will be great...it seems that people never run into that problem..

Modified by aziankingz at 8:19 PM 12/30/2007
Modified by aziankingz at 10:52 PM 12/30/2007

[Spectre_240sx]

Yeah, I had trouble with that metal bending a while back. I basically just stopped trying to jack the car. I've become lazy and don't do any of that type of work myself anymore. After a few bad experiences with transmission swaps and such I've decided that my time is worth the money that I pay a good mechanic.

[SR24DET]

I've talked to many people and alot of my friends have had problems with there sub fram bending. I did as well. Mine bent. When i jack my car up i have 2 spots. First take you jack and get a square piece of wood. put it ontop of ur jack and go to the front of your car and jack it up from the bottom of the radiator support. I have been doing this all year with no problems. if you need to go to the back, look for a spot on your suspension. I jack mine up from a bushing point usually.

The install of the the master and slave cylinders is pretty simple. jack it up and rench away!

[aziankingz]

well i took the idiotic way out and went to a mechanic..cost me $160!! well now the pedal is wayyy high and the catch point is high too..i would only need to press down 1/2 an inch and that would be the engagement point to change gears...very hard to get used to!!..how do you adjust this?

[scottydog]

There is an adjustment pin connecting the master cylinder to the clutch pedal. Loosen the locknut, then turn the rod a couple of turns counterclockwise, then retighten the locknut. 6 & 12mm wrenches as I recall.

It's important to do this, as the clutch might start to slip otherwise.