Looking to make a reliable RB questions on turbo, ecu, maf..

[marshallpre1]

I just bought my first S chassis with a stock RB25DET (stock turbo, stock ecu, etc)

I've tried searching but no luck.
Goals for this car is a healthy 270-300whp with the easiest and most cost effective methods. I've read on the UK forums that there are drop in replacement turbos for the RB (ie. run existing lines, intercooler pipes, etc) or some shops upgrade the ceramic blades to steel. Anyone have any recommendations? Additionally, when do people experience these oil pump issues? I don't plan on running it more than 6500-7000 rpms.

As for ECU control, I'll most likely use a Vi-pec drop in replacement unit since I have great experience with their standalone on my Supra. If the car does have the stock 370cc injectors, I should be good to about ~300whp...

Jeremy

[SullivanRacing06]

why dose you sig say u have a s13 w a rb20 and the thread states uve got a rb25......

[marshallpre1]

typo sorry...

[eh?]

Stock turbo ~10psi, greddy style intake manifold, fmic, 3" exhaust, tuned vipec = 300+whp easy
You don't need a new oil pump/collar.

[marshallpre1]

Stock turbo ~10psi, greddy style intake manifold, fmic, 3" exhaust, tuned vipec = 300+whp easy
You don't need a new oil pump/collar.

That's the route I'm probably going with. However, I may just try a direct drop in cxracing turbo for reliability's sake

[gawdzilla]

However, I may just try a direct drop in cxracing turbo for reliability's sake

i'd run with the stock turbo over that cxracing one, but that's just me.

[Cjmartz2k]

No reason to upgrade the intake manifold for anything under 500hp

[meet07]

Its gonna take about 12psi to make numbers close to 300whp. If your boost spikes over 12lbs(which it will with a internal gate) the turbo is gonna make a rattling noise... That means your over spinning the turbo so I would replace it with anouther t28 that is good up to say 350hp.

[marshallpre1]

However, I may just try a direct drop in cxracing turbo for reliability's sake

i'd run with the stock turbo over that cxracing one, but that's just me.

I hear the stock turbos grenade with its ceramic blades?

what about engine management? What do you guys use? I'm trying to keep it under $1K and still have control of timing, etc. The Vipec I was planning on using was going to cost me $1500...

[marshallpre1]

Its gonna take about 12psi to make numbers close to 300whp. If your boost spikes over 12lbs(which it will with a internal gate) the turbo is gonna make a rattling noise... That means your over spinning the turbo so I would replace it with anouther t28 that is good up to say 350hp.

Just 12 psi? Really? That's pretty good. My stock Supra dynoed 302whp with stock twins at 11psi.

[WhatsADSM]

what about engine management? What do you guys use? I'm trying to keep it under $1K and still have control of timing, etc. The Vipec I was planning on using was going to cost me $1500...

A used EMS of some sort you can probably pick up for under 1000. Like a PFC or *maybe* and AEM.

Otherwise the most cost effective would be a Nistune type 2 board + a Z32 ECU and a consult cable. But that definitely requires the most work. Since you will need to change about 5 pins to repin for the z32 ecu, and would need to solder in the type 2 board.

[RustspecS13]

Just 12 psi? Really? That's pretty good. My stock Supra dynoed 302whp with stock twins at 11psi.

PSI is completely irrelevant comparing different setups like that.

3L twin turbo pushing 11 psi is completely different then a 2.5L pushing 12psi.

PSI is pretty much a restriction to flow essentially. Bigger displacement likely means less restriction, or the turbo compressor will build boost completely differently. Especially twin vs single.

If you really just want 270-300whp your best bet is to get a steel exhaust wheel/shaft in the stock turbo. Good response and very durable.

And the tune is the biggest part, most people just do bolt on and hope for 275whp and a tune always helps.

~Alex

[Kevin.A]

No reason to upgrade the intake manifold for anything under 500hp

there is a simple reason to upgrade the Intake manifold on RB20's and 25's. much shorter cold pipe.
Shorter inter cooler piping means less pipe to pressurize, so it boosts earlier.

my rb20 w/ plazman intake and really short IC piping, boosts to 13psi at about 2800rpm

[RustspecS13]

Plazman is a lot closer to stock then a greddy. The plazman uses the stock lower manifold so it retains most of the factory runner length and therefore torque but the greddy has much shorter runners which gives better top end.

Your thinking of the difference in the turbo hitting full boost, and then filling the piping/plentum/runners with said boost, where was Cj is referring more to power band and over all flow.

You can keep charge piping short with the factory manifold by using a same side enter/exit front mount.

~Alex

[marshallpre1]

Just 12 psi? Really? That's pretty good. My stock Supra dynoed 302whp with stock twins at 11psi.

PSI is completely irrelevant comparing different setups like that.

3L twin turbo pushing 11 psi is completely different then a 2.5L pushing 12psi.

PSI is pretty much a restriction to flow essentially. Bigger displacement likely means less restriction, or the turbo compressor will build boost completely differently. Especially twin vs single.

If you really just want 270-300whp your best bet is to get a steel exhaust wheel/shaft in the stock turbo. Good response and very durable.

And the tune is the biggest part, most people just do bolt on and hope for 275whp and a tune always helps.

~Alex

I understand the differences and how psi is a useless way to compare, but considering the small turbo of the RB, its displacement, restrictive looking manifold, etc, it's just surprising to me. I thought may have to push closer to 15psi with all factors considered.

Anyways, are there any companies that redo's the blades to steel? I've read of shops in the UK, but what about somewhere near NY? What about the CXracing drop in turbo~ $500? Is there a general 'rule of thumb' you guys follow in regards to boost in RB25s @ 9:1 CR running 93 pump?

[marshallpre1]

what about engine management? What do you guys use? I'm trying to keep it under $1K and still have control of timing, etc. The Vipec I was planning on using was going to cost me $1500...

A used EMS of some sort you can probably pick up for under 1000. Like a PFC or *maybe* and AEM.

Otherwise the most cost effective would be a Nistune type 2 board + a Z32 ECU and a consult cable. But that definitely requires the most work. Since you will need to change about 5 pins to repin for the z32 ecu, and would need to solder in the type 2 board.

Thanks for the input, it looks like AEM didn't make an RB25 drop in for their V1. I know they sell one for V2. Also, where do guys mount your oil cooler?

[eh?]

They do make Series 1 aem ems for the rb25. RB20/25/26 S1 ems are all the same. Retailers have been discounted series 1 ems pnp's to make room for the S2. You may be able to find a RB ems at a good discount.
Don't waste your money on a power fc, especially at its current price. I've owned one and it's not worth $1000 (plus you need to spend another $400 on the datalogit). Get a nistune instead if you can find someone to tune it.

Do not waste your money on a CX racing turbo, it's probably just a junk china turbo. Just get your car tuned first and see how it goes.

[marshallpre1]

Oh yeah, after looking for a while, I realized my post about not having V1s was wrong. Thanks for the advice on ecu/ CX racing. and I joined rbforums.com

Jeremy