Post by
Thoughtful_One »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/thoughtful-one-u29843.html
Wed Jan 23, 2008 9:13 pm
Hopefully this will answer any and all questions you might have:
I was in your same exact shoes last year. I planned out searching for a good importer (which I didn't end up getting; though my engine runs great), and bought many parts and finally had a shop do my swap.
My setup:
- stock S14 SR20DET at 9-10 PSI with 93 octane- turbo elbow, downpipe, testpipe- HKS Hi-Power 85mm exhaust- Exedy Stage 2 clutch- ACT prolite flywheel- Walbro 255 LPH fuel pump- NGK Iridium plugs (heat range 7)- brand new harness- SMIC- generic cone filter
With this I made 212 WHP and torque that's close to the same.
Honestly, the S14 SR is a good engine, but I would stick with an S13 SR Blacktop, but not the Type-X (97-98) models mainly because of it's ECU (hard to find). S13 SR is much more common, which makes it easier when parts break. The VTC system on the S14 SR is notorious for having problems, more along the lines of making loud noises from the head due to the VTC solenoid. Check out a few Youtube videos.
Also, though it has the ball-bearing T28 turbo, there is no guarentee it will be perfect when you get your engine. T25's are plentiful, and can be had for cheap, and also can be rebuilt for very little. It's your call though. Unless you end up with a 98 Kouki, the turbo is a minimum of 10 years old, with an unknown history of driving behind it.
I'm not sure how much you know about the S14 SR's, but there are two types, Zenki S14 SR and Kouki S14 SR. The two are DIFFERENT. They have different harnesses and MAF's, where Kouki stuff is SUPER hard to find if your harness is cut and your importer doesn't help. (my importer). If they don't include the right MAF, good luck finding the right one, or wire in a Z32. With S13 SR's, you can get a MAF for very little.
Make sure you get an intercooler that's for an S14 SR ONLY, which applies to SM's and FM's. The cold pipe is different on the S14.
You can run the stock KA radiator, you just need a cross-over hose.
If you'e looking to buy an engine, I strongly suggest going in person to look at it with a friend or two who's really knowledgaeble. Check under the VC for any rust, and see if there is major scoring on the #1 cam lobes as the oil squiters sometimes may be clogged. Check coolant passages for any deposits. Check harness over THOROUGHLY. Look to see if the manifold has been removed or touched before, which may indicate a previous turbo upgrade. Make sure the clutch is not a multi-plate if the transmission is unbolted. Just imagine why they would've needed one... Make sure injectors are stock.
Out of all Nico's sponsors, JHot has been the best in terms of communication and prices. Speak to Gabe.
Buying JDM engines is a gamble because their origins are unknown. Once you have the engine up and running, put a few miles on it and get a leakdown test. Make sure it's at a minimum and if it's not, you'll have a strong case against the importer if there is a problem.
If you're not comfortable with the harness, you can send it over to Yuri from Wiring Specialties, but that's also your call. I personally didn't have time to do the swap, and the KA was having oil starvation problems.
While the engine is out of the car, replace the waterpump, oil seals, NGK's, manifold>turbo gasket. Put good transmission fluid in (Redline MT90, etc).
Words of wisdom:
- don't plan for 230 WHP because you'll want more, guarenteed. - spend a little more and get an engine from a good importer (JHot, Heavy Throttle, etc.)- look at the engine in person if possible- don't skimp on maintenance (gaskets and such)- no need to buy brand new exhaust if possible. I got my HKS Hi-Power, Megan test-pipe, down-pipe and turbo elbow for around 500 shipped all together, and everything was almost new.- purchase a good clutch since it will go a long way
If you're still deadset on the S14 SR and have any direct questions, feel free to email me (email in my profile).