Looking into a Z32

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Hi everyone, new here and was wondering if any here could help answer some questions I may have. I looked through the forum and noticed two recent threads asking about getting one as a first car so I kind of hate making a new topic, but this is a bit different as this will be far from my first car. To make a long story short I currently own a '96 Firebird Formula hardtop with the T-56, but in the past I've predominantly owned Japanese sports cars. Which reason I'm here is after owning the Firebird for awhile I'm considering selling it and would like to get back into another Japanese sports car. The Firebird is a good car PlaySkool dashboard aside and it actually handles fairly well for what it is, but I've grown tired of the solid axle shenanigans that there's no way of escaping. I like going fast as much as the next person but I care more about handling if I'm being honest, I started with cars like the Celica and the Miata so I'm stuck in that momentum driver state of mind I guess.

Anyway I've been thinking about this for some time and have scoured the internet for videos and information on the Z32 and there're some things that you just can't find. If I were to sell the Firebird I'd be looking into the '94-95 N/A 5-speed models, not entirely sure on 2+0 or 2+2 yet but I would prefer a hardtop 2+0 if one could be found. I didn't even want T-tops on my F-body, so yeah. Of course overall condition of the car is most important so I could live with T-tops if the right car came along. My main questions involve the handling of the 2+0 vs the 2+2, from what I've found and read the 2+2 is more stable but the 2+0 is a little sharper on turn in which would make sense given the wheelbase differences. I like driving curvy mountain and back roads at the speed limit, so I'm not sure stability is as big a deal for me, but I would like to do autocross with it eventually which makes me think the 2+0. If anyone has owned both and can give factual comments it'd be much appreciated, looks are subjective so I don't want anyone bashing one or the other please. The other thing is I've looked up dyno charts and it seems like the VG30DE has a pretty flat and strong torque curve, one of the things I like about the Firebird so much is I don't have to rev it out to get up to speed in a timely manner since I use it for daily driver use. I know with about 100 ft lbs less across the board it'd be absurd to expect the exact same performance, but can you say shift out around 3K and still get up to speed briskly and does it have the torque to climb hills and mountains without strain? That was the one thing I hated about my Celica and Miata, you had to bounce off red line just to get going decently and going up hills and mountains was terrible. I like revving out as much as the next person, but I hate being forced to do it all the time if that makes any sense.

I guess that covers it for now unless you can think of anything else relevant. Seems most anything online is about the twin turbo model when it comes to finding information, like any test drive videos it's always the twin turbo. As far as I see it I rather trade off some power for IRS and handling, but I don't want to end up in a situation where I dislike the engine. From what I've found the N/A will hit 60 in a tad under 7 seconds which is more than quick enough for me, but I'm just concerned with the day in and day out drivability like mentioned earlier. Which I'd like to test a few out in person to find out for myself firsthand, but I just can't bring myself to go out and test a car that I have no intention of buying at that moment since it's really not fair to the seller so here I am. Hopefully I'm not being too much trouble and thanks in advance for any insight you can provide.

[DCaff300ZX]

Welcome!
I have owned a NA 2+0 and a TT, but not a 2+2. The cars act basically as you suggested, with of course some possible differences for suspension condition/upgrading, same as the engine...although as a basic rule, the NA motor is FAR harder and more expensive to extract more power from than the TT. M/T is the best way to go all models, as the A/T is prone to failure of all varieties. Also a HUGE factor is whether the NA has been maintained correctly and the necessary upgrades done, as this will result in the better car always unless you are looking for a swap project.
The NA in 2+0 or 2+2 both aren't overly "fast" cars and often guys complain after awhile, and most of those people head for the TT as it is a far better car in almost all ways. The suspension is beefier and has adjustment settings, has bigger tires (grip) and of course a lot more power and acceleration. The TT is a little bit more strong in the mountains handling-wise with the beefier sway bars as well.
So if you want to track the car there are arguments both ways, but as you noted the turn-in area is where I am also most interested and figure the stability is more up to my driving ability.
There's plenty of guys with 2+2's to chime in with their feel on that car, hope this helps!

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Thanks for the welcome and taking the time to help. Automatics were never a consideration, they're just not for me. I'm not overly concerned with power which is why I thought the N/A would be the way to go, for the cost difference in a really nice N/A and TT that's a lot of mod money for suspension, rims/tires, and brakes. On paper the N/A should have enough horsepower and torque to keep me happy, I guess I'm easier to please than most in that regard as the Firebird has more than enough power for me. Where I'm really picky is handling capability and feel, I want something that handles like it's on rails and always instills confidence. I had found some "buyer's guides" across the web and they mentioned things like to make sure the timing was done, the wiring was in good shape since it can get brittle apparently, check for 4th gear grind, then if it has the grey "moustache" and black body line around the car it was a good sign it's not been repainted. That and later models had some issues with the injectors fixed from the factory and a few other small things, plus I want a passenger airbag and the pillar mounted seat belts so that leaves '94-96 anyway. It just seems compared to other cars out there the Z32 offers "the total package" in terms of what I'm looking for in a car, so I guess that's why I'm so interested in trying them.

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There's one thing I keep coming across, here and other places, and that seems to be that everyone says the Z32 is a money pit and a nightmare to work on. Now with the TT car I could see that perhaps, but surely the N/A isn't that bad? From looking at pictures and videos the N/A Z32 is easier than my Firebird and even that's not so bad once you get used to it. Everyone saying it's expensive to maintain but parts aren't that expensive from what I'm seeing, sure timing might be a little pricey using an O.E. kit(which I can get at dealer cost +10%) but that's only every 60K miles/48 months anyway. I mean I guess compared to a Honda Civic or some old domestic parts prices might be considered high, but it doesn't seem more so than any other car I've owned and in fact general maintenance like engine accessories, brakes, suspension, and clutch are less than the Firebird... I mean a well maintained and not abused N/A shouldn't give any more problems than any other car of its age should it?

[NolimitZ32]

The TT and NA are very similar when it comes to repairs and maintenance, the only thing more difficult on the TT is anything directly hooked to the turbos (engine or heads must be pulled to remove or install turbos), otherwise they are the same, the money pit part comes in when people buy ragged cars and refuse to put in the money and work on the front end to bring them back to good condition. I am on my 3rd Z32 now I've got plenty of experience with NAs and TTs and I have never had any issues that weren't self inflicted or age related (which all old sports cars will have). That said, this inst a civic so major maintenance can be expensive but no more expensive than a comparable high end old sports car.

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Thank you NoLimitZ32 that helps put my mind at ease, I figured that might be the case but it's good to hear it from someone with actual experience in the area. I've learned over time to buy the best car that you can and not try to "save money" by getting some cheap piece of junk. My Firebird has been great for example but I bought it from the second owner who was meticulous with maintenance and never abused it, but I see nightmare stories on them all the time. So when I go to get a Z32 I'll try to find one with a nice maintenance record and where the owner cared about it. I too am meticulous with maintenance and address things as soon as I discover something is wrong and on many things I'll do preemptively, so hopefully between all that I'll be good to go. Also thanks for putting the links to service manuals in your signature, will have to bookmark those.

[NolimitZ32]

Anytime man, that's what we are here for.

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The more I read around here and other places the more confident I feel in choosing a Z32. Now just to decide between 2+0 and 2+2. Though after looking at more pictures than I can care to remember and reading through more information I think I might be leaning towards the 2+2 actually, which is interesting since I was thinking 2+0 when I first started looking into them.

[Conradicles]

The N/A 2+2 is still a very fun car to drive. Recently I purchased a 1991 Z32 with 81K miles in very good condition. The previous owner did tons of upgrades and it is super clean. Next step is to purchase a right hand drive Skyline:)

[NolimitZ32]

I personally prefer the 2+0, it looks like more of a sport GT just you and the road type of car. the extra 18" or w/e it is on the 2+2 make it look off to me, but you will find that the split is about 50/50 and it is basically all based on personal preference, now those with a need for a back seat will obviously opt for the 2+2.

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I think I'll probably end up with whatever I find first that's in nice condition since I've nitpicked the years down because I want pillar mounted belts and dual airbags, based on production numbers that means more than likely a 2+0 but if a nice 2+2 were to come up in the desired year range that'd be fine too since looks are kind of a wash for me. I like the longer quarter section and more sloped roof line of the 2+2, but I like the shorter rear section of the 2+0. That and if the rear seats are just as usable as the Firebird's then they'd be nice to have, but having them isn't mandatory.