It uses GM style coil packs that are usually included in the purchase. You will need a fuel pump relay, but it is nothing more than a regular 12 volt relay.sjbsuperman1425 wrote:Would a fuel pump relay be needed as well? Also, is the F system able to use the coil packs or would I have to switch to a GM style ignition?
For fast idle, I use the fast idle solenoid that racetech sells. It's easier to install and allows me to completely eliminate any extra nissan garbage wire. My B13 sentra with the CA in it doesn't use the fast idle solenoid and it cranks and runs just fine without one. Now my 240 has A/C and I do have one on it moreso for the A/C, but it's nice when the car fast idls in cold weather start-ups as well. If you do decide to purchase one of these systems, don't be a hard-head know-it-all. You have people here on this very forum who actually don't mind helping you sort that major investment, so you don't have to go at it alone. Folks that start a "help me" thread and then start boasting about the experience they have with this and that don't really need help and that's why I don't bother posting on those threads that have OPs that makes those claims. It's not rocket science. None of us are knowledgeable about everything and that's why we network here on NICO.sjbsuperman1425 wrote:MAP sensors from SDS are at extra cost correct? I have access to tons of GM parts so coils, and sensors and such are no biggy for me.
So for fast idle you used the air regulator, but not the IACV, and used the throttle plate screw to set idle.
I do have the SOHC harness, but its hacked to s*** from wiring the CA and just using extra wires for other things :\
I think im getting a pretty good grasp on things, thanks a bunch Ryan and Dee.
The tach wire from the coil base can be connectd directly to the dash connector wire that feeds your tach. As for pics of the hall sensor bracket, this is a "to each his own" area, so this is how mine are set-up rear or FWD with or without A/C:sjbsuperman1425 wrote:I'm not like that. I appreciate the help I get and never proclaim to ever know it all, because there is always much more to learn.
as for Fast Idle, Dee, you use the one avaible from the sdsefi.com site which would be installed via the manual provided by them im assuming.
Ryan, can you tell me a bit more about your setup? You said you use the factory air regulator and have it wired to be on when the fuel pump has power? Wouldn't that mean its open at all times?
So as it stands, SDS EM-4F system, 3 Bar MAP sensor, Fast Idle solenoid, and I'd be using a fan relay as well. The system will use all stock sensors that are not provided by them (ie water temp and air temp).
After reading over the installation manual, the Hall sensor install seems straight forward. Just some basic geometry and drilling skills. Same with the coils, basic electrical skills to wire them, but for using the factory tach, its the 200volt setting for us correct?
Again I really appreciate all the help you guys are giving me. Any pics of the hall sensor installed by chance?
Modified by sjbsuperman1425 at 3:38 PM 1/18/2010
I started out with the SDS fast idle, but it didn't seem to work well for me. Remember that Dee is in Florida, and I'm in Kansas. I seriously doubt Dee ever has to worry about trying to start his car in below 0 temps. The SDS fast idle valve simply doesn't move enough air to allow for enough revs to get the motor started properly at those temps. That's why I switched to the stock CA18 fast idle valve. The reason that you wire it in parallel with the fuel pump is because of the way that it works. The stock fast idle valve's opening is based off of temperature. When it's cold, and it has no power, the opening on the inside is very big and allows for a lot of air to bypass the TB. When the car is started, power is applied to a heater built into the fast idle valve. As long as the fuel pump is running, that heater has power, and as the valve gets hotter, the opening in the valve gets smaller. It works very well. The problem with it is that it can get gummed up with junk over the years, and the heater can fail. But I would imagine that it has at least a 10 year lifespan, which is fine for me.sjbsuperman1425 wrote:Ryan, can you tell me a bit more about your setup? You said you use the factory air regulator and have it wired to be on when the fuel pump has power? Wouldn't that mean its open at all times?
I'd be using a fan relay as well. The system will use all stock sensors that are not provided by them (ie water temp and air temp).
After reading over the installation manual, the Hall sensor install seems straight forward. Just some basic geometry and drilling skills. Same with the coils, basic electrical skills to wire them, but for using the factory tach, its the 200volt setting for us correct?
Again I really appreciate all the help you guys are giving me. Any pics of the hall sensor installed by chance?
When you buy one, we'll help you cover your areas of concern behind the scenes. No one really shares maps on a public forum because nothing is guaranteed and we don't want people to take info that we provide, then go out and whack their engines only to start bad mouthing the folks that try to help. I'm sorry if this sounds harsh, but this is where I get off this thread until you have the system in your posession, have done most of your install, and ready to fire some serious baller questions at us. The SDS is no bastard of a system, but there has to be some discretion about some things, especially mapping. Be sure and select an injector and stick with it; kind of an all purpose injector. My recommendation: 750cc or greater.sjbsuperman1425 wrote:I think im pretty sold on SDS. Though expensive to the eye at first ($1500 and some change) it sounds like it pays for itself in time, and the tuning sounds/looks simple along with the wiring. I still will continue my research and learning process. Fuel Maps i think i understand about 70-80%, but ignition maps and how to figure how what the ignition timing needs to be is still a bit beyond my comprehension..