Looking for information- SR20DET in First Gen Altima

[S13 240SX]

I am searching for guides like a how to guide and how to wire for a bluebird sr20det in a 1994 Nissan altima... and so far all i found is this info which is very much helpful and needed.

SR20DET Swap FAQ (FWD & RWD)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I have read tons of posts on many forums in regards to SR20 swaps and all most all of the information given is WAY off. Hopefully what I post below will help those who do not know, learn a little about what is required to properly complete an SR swap in any of its native chassis' whether they be FWD or RWD.

RWD Setups --------------

This information goes for both the S13 (1989 - 1994) & S14 (1995 - 1998) model year 240SX's

1) AWD SR20DET's from the Pulsar GTiR or Bluebird SSS will not fit the RWD layout of the 240SX's. Reason being that the mounting locations for the engine mounts & accessories (power steering pump, A/C compressor, alternator, ect.) are all cast in different locations. The RNN14 SR20DET's only similarity with the S13 & S14 SR20DET's is the internal construction of the blocks as all internal parts are interchangeable.

2) Purchasing a front clip for the swap is highly recommended as most engine packages (ie. Engine, Transmission, ECU & Wiring Harness) do not include any sort of intercooler setup, downpipe, Mass Air Sensor or ignitor. And about 50% of the engine packages I have seen have come with damaged CAS (Cam Angle Sensors) & cut harnesses as a result of how the engine was removed from the clip. You must remember that most of these engines are removed from their respective cars from people who a) are paid poorly and are uneducated on properly removing an engine and b) don't care if a sensor breaks, once the engine is out and ready for shipping their job is done.

Although labour is more expensive when purchasing a front clip as the person doing the swap will charge extra for removing the engine & components, that charge is far less then the cost of replacing missing/damaged parts that are inevitable with purchasing just an engine set. Unless you have a hefty budget and plan on doing all aftermarket parts like an FMIC, turbo exhaust & aftermarket engine management right away, a clip is the most economical means of completeing a swap.

Even for my own car I spent the extra for a clip. The hastle of getting an engine set for $800 cheaper then a clip just isnt worth it as the parts you will need are of far greater expense then the difference in price from buying just an engine set.

3) Not all SR's are the same. The S13 SR20DET is the entry level swap. It is the cheapest to purchase and also the cheapest to install. Reason is that it is an older motor and uses a more simplified wiring layout. Mechanically speaking it is no more difficult to install than an S14 SR is, but it is far easier to wire up. On a sidenote the S13 Blacktop & Redtop are the EXACT SAME. The only difference is that they came from different years and have different valve covers. Redtop SR's were from 89.5 - 94 and blacktops were from 96 - 98. The reason blacktops are more expensive is because they are newer and typically have lower mileage. In terms of output both are rated the same at 202hp & 205 ft/lbs, both use the same parts and both use the same turbines.

The S14 SR20DET is more expensive because it has 20 more hp. It gets its extra HP from a dual ball bearing T28 turbo (whereas the S13 uses a wet float bearing T25). S14 SR's also have a better intake design & VCT or variable cam timing. Due to this added electrical, installation in terms of wiring is also more expensive.

The top of the line SR20DET, the S15 is very expensive and very involving. The 6-speed transmission is longer and uses a different output for the driveshaft so to swap an S15 SR into either an S13 or S14 chassis you will require all the above listed S13 parts plus the S15 driveshaft, differential & speedometer plug. The speedometer plug is required because the S15 speedo sensor is in the diff not the transmission. Installation and wiring on a package like this goes for around $2000 for just the basic install not including other parts. Reason being that there is even more wiring aswell as more mechanical work to be done.

4) Swapping an SR is not at all like swapping a honda. Much more parts are required aswell as alot more wiring. On the scale of motor swaps honda's are by far the easiest so do not think that the ease of those swaps is comparable to the nissan swaps. The only swap easier then a honda swap is swapping an SBC (small block chev) but thats a different story entirely.

FWD Setups --------------

This information goes for the B13 Sentra/NX2000 (1991 - 1994) & B14 (1995 - 1998) model year Sentra's aswell as the P10 (1991 - 1996) & P11 (1997 - 2002) Infiniti G20's. Also some of this information is useable on the U12 (1990 - 1992) Stanza & U13 (1993 - 1997) Altima's.

First of all, contrary to popular belief the transversly mounted (FWD-ish)SR20DET from the U13 Bluebird's & RNN14 Pulsar's doesn't just bolt in. The engine mounts are however located in the same positions as their non-turbo SR counterparts, but thats about all that is the same.

The Bluebird's & Pulsar GTiR's all came with SR20DET engines & AWD which doesn't directly work with any of the aforementioned donor chassis'. First off, you will need to use the FWD layout transmission, axles & shifters already located in USDM SR20DE powered vehicles. Secondly, in order to mate this transmission to the GTiR SR20DET you will need to mill down a small section of the SR20 on the back portion of the block that faces the firewall as it interferes with securing the FWD transmission to the AWD based engine. Next on the list is an upgraded clutch as the AWD transmission designed for use with the SR20DET uses a larger input shaft and different spline count then the FWD SR transmissions do, so the clutches are not interchangeable. Also, the stock SR20DE clutch is not strong enough to maintain the torque increase of the SR20DET engine so it won't work either as it will either slip like crazy under boost, or it will simply seperate the clutch material from the disc making itself unuseable.

Next is the accessories, you will need the GTiR wiring harness, CAS, Ignitor, ECU, Turbo Elbow with Downpipe & MAF. The top mount intercooler really isnt needed unless you plan on modifying your hood to accommodate it. Either way the setup will need to be intercooled so you will most likely be in need of a front mount setup, unless as previously mentioned you plan on modifying the hood. You will also need to modify the exhaust to fit, and the stock piping really is not ideal, so a 2.5' or 3.0' complete exhaust is recommended for anyone wanting to make hp levels under 450hp.

The wiring is no cakewalk either as plenty of modifications are required to make everything work together. If any one of the MAF, ignitor, CAS or coil packs (not all versions use coil-on-plug) are missing your dead in the water, as the engine will not fire up without input from all those sensors (which do not come standard on an engine set unless otherwise mentioned).

So at the end of it all you will need all of the following:

--> FWD SR20DE Transmission --> GTiR/Bluebird SSS Engine Wiring, ECU, CAS, Ignitor, Coil Packs & MAF --> Intercooler Setup & Piping --> Turbo Exhaust Elbow & Downpipe --> Replacement Clutch Setup --> Blow-Off Valve (Optional) --> Larger Diameter Exhaust (Optional) --> Polyeurethane Engine Mounts (Optional)

so can anyone please point me to a link where there is a write-up/install/wiring guide because i been trying to find one and can't find anything.... bascially all i need is a wiring guide.

[Rev_D21]

If I remember correctly swapping the SR20DET JPN/AUS BB setup was a very expensive endevour. I'd import a front clip. There is a Nissan junk yard in NZ that may be able to help you get some parts. I imported some BB parts from them when I still had my U13.