Looking for Build Advice (Long Post)

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Fearspect
Posts: 164
Joined: Sun Sep 09, 2012 1:08 pm
Car: 1990 Nissan 300zx TT 2+2
Location: Edmonton, AB

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1990 JDM 2+2 TT w/ 118kkm

I have done a lot of research on how I want my car to be when I am finished. This has resulted in the following list of upgrades to be conducted. I am openly asking for advice in what is missing so that I can use that information to properly plan the order and budget for the entire thing.

There are only two rules I am imposing on myself with this build:
1) I do not want to rebuild the engine: It is in good shape and I don't think I will actually be pushing it THAT hard. I don't have the level of mechanical expertise yet to do this myself anyway.
2) I am buying quality parts and trying to only ever buy any one part once: self-explanatory, I think.

My goal: I highly reliable, like-new, high-powered z.

Deletes/Bypass
-EGR Delete
-AIV Delete
-A/C Delete
-Carbon Canister Delete
-PCV Relocate
-Water Bypass

Known Issues
-Rear Main Seal Replace
-Water Pump Reseal
-Balance Tube O-Rings Replace
[Done] Timing Belt Change @118kkm

Cooling
Z1 Full Flow Oil Cooler
Ashspec Massive SMIC
2.5” Intercooler/Intake Piping
Specialty Z Expansion Turbo Outlet Pipes
Dual JWT Pop Chargers
Koyo Racing Radiator
Z1 Upgraded Throttle Bodies
Z1 Upper Plenum Modification Service
Upper Plenum Heat Dispersion Coating

Engine
[Done] Unorthodox Racing Underdrive Pulley
Unorthodox Racing Overdrive Water Pulley
[Done] Power Enterprise Kevlar Timing Belt
[Done] Nismo Thermostat
[Done] JWT Variable Timing Control Springs
300 Degree Fuel Rails
Nismo 740cc Fuel Injectors
NGK Iridium IX Spark Plugs

Electronics
Blitz sbc-iD Spec-R Boost Controller
‘95 Wiring Harness
Innovate Widebands
Specialty Z 16 Channel ECU Map Selector
Specialty Z 91/94/100 Tunes

Exhaust
MSP Manifolds
JWT Sport 550 Turbos
Specialty Z 3” Downpipes
Specialty Z 3” -> 2.5” Testpipes
Specialty Z 2.5” Catback Exhaust

Drivetrain
[Done] Inland Empire Heavy Duty 1-Piece Aluminum Driveshaft
Specialty Z Upgraded Flex Plate
Specialty Z Upgraded Automatic Transmission
Specialty Z P.I. Torque Converter

Suspension
Megan Racing EZ Street/Powertrix Sport Street Coilovers
Specialty Z Subframe Spacers
Stillen Anti-Sway Bar Kit
SPL Pro Rear Upper Arms
SPL Pro Rear Traction Rods
SPL Pro Front Tension Rods
Specialty Z Front Camber Compensation Kit
Specialty Z Steering Rack Brushings

Interior
Light Gray Nova Suede Interior
Light Gray Nova Suede/Leather Seats
Triple Gauge DIN Plate
Boost Gauge
AFV Gauge
Oil Temp Gauge

Exterior
99 JSpec Front Fascia
Stillen Type III Side Skirts + Door Fillers (or the proper OEM ones if anyone knows where to find them, found one site but they're selling for $1k, seems a bit steep...)
99 JSpec Tail Lights
96 JSpec Special Edition Spoiler
99 JSpec Rear Underskirts
Nissan OEM Nose & Nissan Emblem
Redo all Weather Stripping
Rear Wiper/Old Antenna Delete
Modern Short Antenna
Complete Body Work
Respray

Looking forward to hearing what the vets here have to say about all this, thanks.
Last edited by Fearspect on Thu Oct 18, 2012 8:20 am, edited 1 time in total.


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300ZXttZMAN
Posts: 6800
Joined: Mon Nov 22, 2010 4:07 pm
Car: 1990 Nissan 300ZX TT 5spd pearl white

DD: 2008 Nissan Frontier NISMO pkg 4x4 Crew Cab
Location: Sulphur, LA 70665
Contact:

Post

Ok first thing how much money do you have to spend?

Fearspect
Posts: 164
Joined: Sun Sep 09, 2012 1:08 pm
Car: 1990 Nissan 300zx TT 2+2
Location: Edmonton, AB

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I'll just leave it at this, money isn't my limiting factor. That being said, I don't intend to just go and drop $20k on parts, I will be working in stages and not buying too much until things are installed.

Example: Work this winter will include work on the 'Known Issues', along with the interior, a catback, radiator and oil cooler.

Upgrades so far (other than those listed above as DONE), these were done by the previous owner:
-Single Cold Air Intake
-Specialty Z ECU & Boost jets (last measured at 13.5 PSI)
-Ebay downpipes/testpipes
-Some kind of ebayed two into one catback, looks like something from a Skyline or Supra
-Equip Wheels, unknown model, 16"
-Michelin Sport Tires, I can get more details on these but I'm told they're good and cost a lot, in no rush to replace them

Fearspect
Posts: 164
Joined: Sun Sep 09, 2012 1:08 pm
Car: 1990 Nissan 300zx TT 2+2
Location: Edmonton, AB

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Some pictures:

Image
Image
Image

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300ZXttZMAN
Posts: 6800
Joined: Mon Nov 22, 2010 4:07 pm
Car: 1990 Nissan 300ZX TT 5spd pearl white

DD: 2008 Nissan Frontier NISMO pkg 4x4 Crew Cab
Location: Sulphur, LA 70665
Contact:

Post

Ok so whats the first stage going to be??

User avatar
TTkickedin
Posts: 1658
Joined: Tue Jul 19, 2011 5:51 am
Car: 1991 Nissan 300zx TT 5 speed, t-tops, < currently in intensive care unit!
2011 MBTA BUS
Location: Braintree, MA
Contact:

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first thing should be:

Where on earth did you find a JDM 300zx 2+2 TT, why is it in Alabama, and how in the hell can i get one!?

I've been over here for like, 2 hours trying to find a R.I. to do it for me. I'd rather just get one already here.

Help me out. because if i dont find one, I'm going to be one of the few who will do a RHD swap. I've made my decision to go for rare and cool rather than blow my money just on the engine.

If you don't have money holding you back, you should just buy a long block from SZ or Z1, i don't see why not...

User avatar
300ZXttZMAN
Posts: 6800
Joined: Mon Nov 22, 2010 4:07 pm
Car: 1990 Nissan 300ZX TT 5spd pearl white

DD: 2008 Nissan Frontier NISMO pkg 4x4 Crew Cab
Location: Sulphur, LA 70665
Contact:

Post

TTkickedin wrote:first thing should be:

Where on earth did you find a JDM 300zx 2+2 TT, why is it in Alabama, and how in the hell can i get one!?

I've been over here for like, 2 hours trying to find a R.I. to do it for me. I'd rather just get one already here.

Help me out. because if i dont find one, I'm going to be one of the few who will do a RHD swap. I've made my decision to go for rare and cool rather than blow my money just on the engine.

If you don't have money holding you back, you should just buy a long block from SZ or Z1, i don't see why not...
AB = Alberta (Canada)

User avatar
TTkickedin
Posts: 1658
Joined: Tue Jul 19, 2011 5:51 am
Car: 1991 Nissan 300zx TT 5 speed, t-tops, < currently in intensive care unit!
2011 MBTA BUS
Location: Braintree, MA
Contact:

Post

...oh.

yeah i guess that explains that. oh well :)

Fearspect
Posts: 164
Joined: Sun Sep 09, 2012 1:08 pm
Car: 1990 Nissan 300zx TT 2+2
Location: Edmonton, AB

Post

300ZXttZMAN wrote:Ok so whats the first stage going to be??
Over the winter:
Koyo Race Radiator
SZ 2.5" SS Catback
Z1 Full Flow Oil Cooler
Interior trim and seats
all items listed 'known issues'
TTkickedin wrote:If you don't have money holding you back, you should just buy a long block from SZ or Z1, i don't see why not...
I would just redo my current healthy engine rather than do that. Just because I have money doesn't mean I intend to burn it on an 'upgrade' that I don't really see the merit in. Further, the only reason I bought this is to turn the wrench on as much of it as possible. If the upgrade isn't involving my work... well, let's just say that's how I'm justifying the cost of all this to myself so it wouldn't happen unless required.

I'm interested in focusing on 'healthy' upgrades to start, better cooling, better air system, etc. She already pulls hard enough for now.

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BigTDogg (MA)
Posts: 4194
Joined: Wed Aug 29, 2007 8:26 am
Car: 1990 Nissan 300ZX TT
Location: Boston MA

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Sounds like a great build and project. I'd only recommend the Powertrix coils over the Megans. Keep us updated on progress!

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NolimitZ32
Posts: 7042
Joined: Fri Jun 27, 2008 9:07 am
Car: 91 AG2 2+0 TTMT swap/E39 BMW 540i6/E53 4.6is Dinan S3
Location: Houston, TX

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OP, thats a good list, I personally have nothing to say about your list. Enjoy the build.
Now for a bit of OT, Eli, FUUUUUUUUU righthand drive, it sucks, not only am I uncomfortable over here since I'm so used to LHD but I have noticed here in Oz people drive less precisely and I would bet its the RHD, people on the road can't stay in their lanes, natural born Aussies I ride with act very awkwardly when reversing and passing vehicles parked on the side of the road. If/When I get back to the US and if I do end up bringing a R32 with me I will do everything possible to convert it to LHD. IMHO RHD sucks.

Fearspect
Posts: 164
Joined: Sun Sep 09, 2012 1:08 pm
Car: 1990 Nissan 300zx TT 2+2
Location: Edmonton, AB

Post

I found it took me about a day to get used to it; I really don't find it that bad. I even find it quite fun and it makes you stand out a bit. I have only two issues really:

1) Waiting to make a left hand turn, you tend to have to wait for the intersection to clear because you can't see past them most of the time.
2) Dedicated right hand turn lanes (e.g. with a triangle of pavement there to separate) gets tricky to properly shoulder check, but I think that's more this specific car as I find most shoulder checks difficult anyway. It is so low though that mirror checking and paying good attention to the driving situation tends to be fine (I do still shoulder check as best I can). I do get worried sometimes that a quiet motorcycle with its lights off might sneak up on me someday though...

On the list:

The biggest problem I have is in the exhaust. Specialty Z doesn't make 3" catbacks for the 2+2 (though they said they would custom make it if they had the car to work on, only about a 3k drive...). I only want to upgrade each part once and although Greg at SZ told me that below 600HP a 3"->2.5" Testpipe is probably best, I still am not tickled about possibly replacing a relatively new catback and testpipe again a couple years down the road if I decide to up the power. I noticed B&B and Labree (who SZ used to work with) both make 3" 2+2 catbacks. Any reviews on these?

My overarching goal right now is to get this thing to a track and learn to compete in GT type events (this car has a decent legacy in that category). Is an A/T and 2+2 going to work too much against me in that regard? Because of this goal, my main focus for now looks like this:

1) Get car as reliable as possible (Seals, Gaskets, Rubber Hoses -> Silicone)
2) Quality Race suspension
3) Cooling Mods (Radiator, Full Flow Oil Cooler, Dual Pop, Intercoolers, etc)
4) Get the body looking nice
5) Brakes, Wheels, Tires
6) Moar power

This blog post from SZ is the one I found most interesting:
http://specialtyz.com/blog/?p=1442
Basically, they tested his stock engine with a leak down and compression test and found it didn't need a rebuild. Can an individual perform this tests accurately alone? To what specs does the engine have to be in order to build it to that level?


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