Looking for a decent mileage engine for a 1990 300zx Z32 NA. [email protected]: 334-233-3135

I have a stripped down short block with NA or TT pistons (your choice) ready for reassembly and phase 2 NA heads fully assembled. You'd have to source bearings and gaskets/seals, everything else is there and in great shape.

About the bearings: Nissan has discontinued "Grade" bearings for that Z. Thanks anyway fellow Z guy!!!

I run non-graded ACL Race bearings in my built TT with no issues, so do most of the engines built by Z1, SZ, IPP, etc. May I ask what you're end goal is? Are you looking for an engine to drop straight in, build, upgrade?

Rebuild mine if I can't find an engine. But then I read/heard all the hubbub about using only the "Graded" bearings. And some guys said standard size bearings will work. I broke a lower oring in an injector, cause vapor lock, and bent a rod. 89k original engine. When I tore it down and saw only the bent rod, I almost wanted to reused the bearing that was in there (because of the "Graded" size headace). Car ran GREAT, just bent the rod and locked it up while trying to start it up after the injector install. But I didn't want to put it all back together and have issues. With the ACL bearings you use, did you go with "standard sizes" or modified the crank to install thicker oversize bearings? Plus, what brand engine gasket kit and Piston rings did you use on your rebuild? Thanks

Hey NolimitZ32, If you can, Call me at: 334-233-3135. Thanks

I had the block and rotating assembly blue printed. I used all OEM gaskets and seals. The only metal that's OEM in my bottom end are the block, crank and girdle, the rest is forged, CP Pistons, Eagle Rods, ACL Race Bearings, ARP hardware. The rings came with the pistons so I assume CP or whomever they use. The crank was polished, no material removed from crank or rods. IIRC the difference in the thickness of the graded bearings is minor enough where the only time you may be in trouble using no graded bearings is if you are at the very big or small end. Get yourself a bore gauge and a micrometer and measure your rods and crank, I would bet that you would be within tolerance using the non graded bearings (check the FSM, it gives you tolerances). Hell some of the better aftermarket manufacturers provide different thicknesses. Its been over a decade since I've had my block open so this is all from memory of long bygone days.

Thanks for the advice

I have one running for sale.

I ended up rebuilding mine. Thanks