Looking for a peice of harness and Vac problem

[limecorrado]

Does anyone have part of the harness which connects to the dropping resistor, or know what other car might have the connector.

Also can someone discribe the vacuum hoses go,

What i see1 above the turbo,1 on the wastegate,4 under the intake manifold (Grouped together),1 small one at the back of the intake,1 large one at the rear of the intake(Brake Booster),1 under the throttlebody, and then 2 one the metal plate with the ignigtor.

I would like to use one vaccum hose for my boost gauge and another for my HKS ssqv bov.

[pulsar gtr]

You can use a plug of a 1987 nissan pulsar that had a ca16de engine in it, CA18de didn't come with dropping resistor pack, so hit the junk yards and see if you can find any.

the Vaccum on the turbo gets T-connected with the wastegate acctuator and that goes to the one on side of the manfold, bit thicker than the rest (provides enough pressure).

The fpr and secondary intake throttle body regulator get T-connected together and they hook up to the small one on the back of the intake.the thick one on the back of the intake that goes to your brake booster.

The one under your throttle body, can be used for your boost gauge.

personally I don't like T-connecting lots of things together because I have experienced robbing pressure from one application to another.

If you have to tap into the intake and run some more vacuum outlets do so, but try avoid sharing them with other applications.

The one on your ignitor plate, that should be for your boost selonoid which is controlled by the ecu, but You can connect them as I mentioned above and illimate this plate except for the ignitor of course.

PULSAR GTRRafi

[limecorrado]

Thanks

I have one more question.My engine has a hicas power steerig pump but my car is non-hicas can i simply plug the extra side of the pump.Thanks

[float_6969]

No, you'll need to dissasemble the back side of the pump and remove the impeller. It's a pretty high pressure pump and it will probabally leak, plus it will rob a lot of horsepower doing that.

[biosehnsucht]

Does anyone have part of the harness which connects to the dropping resistor, or know what other car might have the connector.

I think I got the connector from the window wiper motor on a Maxima or something at the junkyard.. just take the dropping resistor with you and try to find something that fits, I had to repin the connector but it'll work fine..

Quote »Also can someone discribe the vacuum hoses go,

What i see1 above the turbo,1 on the wastegate,4 under the intake manifold (Grouped together),1 small one at the back of the intake,1 large one at the rear of the intake(Brake Booster),1 under the throttlebody, and then 2 one the metal plate with the ignigtor.

I would like to use one vaccum hose for my boost gauge and another for my HKS ssqv bov.[/quote]the 4 on the manifold from top to bottom:- boost/vacuum source (FPR T's into it on the back side on MT only, you can get signal for boost gauge from this too, it also goes to the vacuum chamber for the secondary butterfly control if you hook it up correctly)- FPR (on AT only, it's hooked in through a solenoid to boost pressure for hot starts which then is hooked to the top one)- secondary butterfly actuator- filtered unboosted air (goes around the back of the engine on the same bracket the water return is from the turbo, then plumbs into the turbo inlet pipe next to where the crankcase ventilation - within this there is a T to a solenoid the JDM ECU uses to control boost)

the easy way to make things 'work':leave the stock T between FPR and back of plenum and top of the four pipes, loop the top and 2nd from bottom pipes at the other end (which connectsthe actuator to boost/vacuum) OR just T the FPR, actuator, and plenum together.

on the turbo, run a vacuum line from compressor outlet (there's a vacuum nipple there) to the wastegate

the 'correct way':you'll need a vacuum chamber/tank and a checkvalve (or a tank w/ one built in, I'm using one from a 1st gen (I think?) protege that has it built in)

at the back end of the pipes:- the FPR is T'd into the plenum and to the top of the four pipes- nothing on the 2nd pipe from the top (would be FPR & it's control solenoid on AT)- the butterfly actuator connects to the 3rd pipe from the top- the unboosted air line (see above) is connected to the 4th pipe

at the front end of the pipes:- top pipe goes to check valve (allowing airflow TOWARDS manifold, AWAY from vacuum tank) then to vacuum tank- nothing again on 2nd- 3rd pipe goes to actuator control solenoid- 4th pipe goes to actuator control solenoid

the vacuum tank & actuator control solenoid:the vacuum tank on one side goes to the pipes (see above), the other to the solenoid, and the solenoid connects also to the filtered atmos (the bottom pipe) and the actuator (3rd pipe).

If you look at the solenoid (pretty much any KA 3 way solenoid at least) you'll notice it has two pipes at one end (one of which is straight along the axis, the other sticking out at 90 deg angle) and one at the other (on axis)..

IIRC the one by itself should go to atmos line, the other one opposite should be the tank, and the one at 90 deg should go to the actuator. I can check once I get home.

..

Finally, the ECU boost control if you want it, invloves another solenoid on the left side of the engine bay by the turbo. Instead of connecting the wategate directly to the compressor outlet, T those together and the other part of the T goes to the solenoid (normally closed, not sure which end off hand) and then the common part of the solenoid goes to the fresh air line going around the back of the engine from the turbo inlet (T'd in) and the 3rd part of the solenoid is just cap'd off.

The way it seems to work is when the ECU is < X boost is just leaves it open so that the wastegate doesn't get as much boost from the compressor (since it's recirculating the bit that would make it start to close) and then when it hits X it closes it SNAP instant opening and boost control.. that's my theory anyways.

I'm not hooking that up, just going to get a real controller eventually. It's just a little too crazy for me, altho if I get bored I might try to verify how it works and see if it really is tunable, cause i would be nifty if I could romtune it.

When I get home later I'll try and make a more coherent post, that and make sure I didn't screw any of that up. We just mad haxed the FSM and FAST systems the other night to figure out where all this **** should go... but I'm tired and brain is not operating 100%.

[pulsar gtr]

DAM biosehnsucht, you got some serious time on your hands, that was one hell of a long article, mind you it was a very good one, but I had to run twice for a coffee break lol J/K

RafiPULSAR GTR

[biosehnsucht]

haha yeah its partially incoherent cause I typed it at work over the course of an hour or so between calls.. I didn't know how long it was because of that until I hit post

[pulsar gtr]

lol, I kinda figured that you didn't at work, same with me, thats the only time, I actually take my time and write longer paragraphs lol

PULSAR GTR

[float_6969]

Please copy and paste that into the STICKY so that you get credit for it. Thanks Sehn!

[mikeh16]

Wow, that's a good article!

[float_6969]

when you were talking about the boost controller, were you talking about that thing that sits below the ignitor? If so, that's not a boost controller...

[biosehnsucht]

There is a solenoid that can bleed boost signal from the compressor-wastegate connection. I've seen the JDM vacuum diagrams, not sure what it's used for but it definately can ghetto control boost.

[float_6969]

Just checking. I was thinking about your idea and actually it would be super simple. All you would need is a pressure switch and that solenoid to make it work. I work at a pool store and we use them all the time. They're like $15. I think ours only go to like 12psi though. But regardless, you'd just run a vac line to the pressure switch. Then run power through the pressure switch and the solenoid. When the pressure in the mani gets high enough the pressure will close the circut, the solenoid will open instantly. You should build boost much quicker that way. I'll have to look into it more on monday to see how high I can set them to go...

[biosehnsucht]

You'll have to have connections on the wiring harness for it of course. We've found out the butterfly control signal, forgot the pin# off hand, might be 56 or something, it's listed in the DATnet CA18DET reference.. the boost solenoid I'm not sure about, based on harness layouts and where Japan FAST shows the vacuum tubing I think the solenoid next to the ignitor on the left (JDM passenger USDM driver) side is it, and I think the 'pressure regulator control solenoid' IIRC it's called in the diagrams might be the right harness connection, as the harness layouts show it over there, the only other thing it might be is for FPR control to raise pressure on hot starts (In Japan only on automatics, and JDM is placed next to the vacuum tank on the driver (JDM) side).. I'm really not for sure which wire it is though, just think thats it. I'm definately sure how the vacuum bits are hooked up though..

I need me a JDM FSM, stat!

the vacuum diagrams (will do something better another time and update my FAQ post with that)..

JDM:

European (w/ butterfly control added, basicly used this to show where it goes since its in english):