looking for a new daily? SE-R?

[piknockout]

I still have issue with the tendency of boosted QRs to bend things too.

Only a couple of QR's got bent rods, and they were used in development of the SSR and FI-R turbos. The PTI kit has been proven to do really well with the QR and no problems to date from anyone, all running stock internals. In the initial development of the turbo kits, people were trying to find the limits. Those kits were running too much torque down low and killing the engines. Those issues have now been dealt with in the PTI kits.

And all in all, they're all "about" the same weight!

[vicQ45]

i didn't know there was so much rivalry in the sentra world :P. the sr20 is a great, proven motor, but the qr definately has its benefits as well. in the end i think they'd both end up being just as fast. the things that would sell me on the spec v(always thought that was a dumb name :P like type-r or type-s) would be the 6spd and the vlsd. other than that it's gonna be pretty much the same

[piknockout]

i didn't know there was so much rivalry in the sentra world :P. the sr20 is a great, proven motor, but the qr definately has its benefits as well. in the end i think they'd both end up being just as fast. the things that would sell me on the spec v(always thought that was a dumb name :P like type-r or type-s) would be the 6spd and the vlsd. other than that it's gonna be pretty much the same

Spec V's rule all! :

Just messin'! The SR is a very proven motor, but then again it's like what, 15 years old? The QR has only been around for a few years. The shortfall of the QR is the internals. But with beefed up internals, it can be a great motor. And the QR can handle 275whp pretty well, which is roughly around what a RRSR20DE from what I understand from my buddy who is in the process of turboing his SE.

There's no rivalry, just differences in opinion that's all.

[Kalok]

Can't believe I forgot about the HLSD! Doh! Yeah, now that thing is great, I will tell you that.

1. The Lava Red interior was only on the 2002 models, the 2003's and up have silver instead and IMO much better looking than an SE-R interior. My buddy has an SE-R and I can't stand it.

2. The HLSD is almost one of the biggest things that makes the Spec V worth the extra money. And I don't think the difference is $3K. When a friend of mine was looking to buy one or the other, the difference in price between the two was $1,500. Well worth the extra money.

3. The "extra 10 hp" is kind of a joke, I'll give you that one. Mod for mod when it comes to power, the two would be pretty identical. But putting that power to good use, the HLSD in the Spec V will give you better overall performance (ie, the corners).

4. 6 gears with the 6th gear being like overdrive is nice. And mine is daily driven and I don't feel like I shift all that much more than in a 5 speed, except when I'm cruising on the highway I drop it into 6th.

5. Even if you are going to end up getting a better suspension, the Spec V set up is nicer for handling until you actually get around to it, which may be a year or more for most people. And even at that, the extra cost to get the HLSD and interior has already made it worth the money.

6. The 17's with tires are about the same weight as the 16's with tires. And even if you do end up getting another set of 17's or 18's, once again, it may take a year or more. In which case the 17's on the Spec V look really nice. Only reason I switched mine out is because I do a decent amount of racing and prefer a lighter weight wheel. And also, when you go to upgrade, you can sell those stock 17's for a lot more than the stock 16's, thus helping to pay for the new wheels.

7. How can you say "The "base" 5-speed SE-R is the car that you get if you're going to do any "real" tuning." when you're not getting an LSD? Real tuners prefer to have an LSD so you're not smoking that inner front tire mid turn. And if it is the car you get to do any "real tuning", how come everyone buys the Spec V to tune and upgrade and the SE-R's are all snatched up by girls and older ladies who just want a Sentra with more power than the 1.8?

8. For the cost of getting a wrecked Spec V transmission and installing it in the SE-R is going to cost some decent money. I'd rather save myself the trouble, especially for all the other benefits that come with it.

Even though I ended up replacing a lot of those parts, I'm still happy in my purchase of the Spec V over the SE-R. Nothing wrong with "just an SE-R", I just think the extra money for the Spec V is totally justified and I think it was worth the money. But everyone has their opinions, right? :

All of the dealerships in the Phoenix area wanted $3k difference in 2k3 for the cars.

Wheels are usually the first things people replace on their car. How can you say they will wait a year for them?

A wrecked Spec transmission will be "cheap" to purchase compared to some of the other stuff people will do to REALLY make use of the HLSD, such as a turbo kit. Swapping the transmission doesn't involve replacing any of the electronics in the car at all. Most people going for higher horsepower applications are going to yank the transmission anyhow to replace the clutch and flywheel. MUCH easier to put the clitch and flywheel on a new transmission and then just slap it in. Not to mention you have a spare transmission in case you eat a gear.

There aren't ANY grannys around here running "just an SE-R" that I have seen that aren't also running an auto transmission. Which is why the "just an SE-R" only came in auto in the 2k4 and later models.

3/4 of the crap that makes a Spec V "special" get thrown away when you upgrade either car with after-market parts. For the $3k price difference I could buy a NEW Spec V transmission. A CAI replaces the "special" airbox. A set of coilovers replaces the "special" struts and springs. Tires and wheels erplaces the "special" 17" wheels. A dealership with a Consult-friendly service department does the 2* timing difference. All you're left with is the interior, the transmission, and the Spec V logos. If you're a weenie the Spec V logos can be had for $20 or less. Then it's just the interior and transmission. I bet you can get a transmission for a junker for less than $1,500 of you shop around.

So, let's see.... SE-R 5-spd....$16,000 (the cost of mine in late 2k2) + $1,500 = $17,500. SE-R Spec V....$19,000 (the cost at the dealership in late 2k2). Price difference $1,500. That will buy you a set of wheels and a CAI or a set of Tein Basics and a CAI. Both of these prices are before negotiation, of course. One of the things that drove the price up, at least when I was looking for my car, is that dealerships pretty much were only stocking the automatic SE-R. Not many had 5-spd or 6-spd cars.

The math speaks for itself.

[honda_killer240]

ya im not planning to do much of anything to it cuz it is gonna be my daily driver mostly audio, and maybe a intake and a exhaust other then that i dont plan on doing anything so it sounds like the spec-v is what i want thanks for all the help guys

[piknockout]

Okay, I don't want to continue to go back and forth on this stuff forever, but here a few responses to your comments.

First off, I got my Spec V for $17k with sunroof option in late 2002. And the SE-R's weren't going for that much less, even after negotiations, like I said around $1,500 less. And I would rather spend the extra $1,500 up front included in my 1.9% financing than to have to go and find a Spec V transmission and install it, find a Spec V interior and install it, and etc.

A turbo kit can't really make that much use of the LSD due to the simple fact that all it does is roast the tires in the first 3 gears. And many people make use of the LSD. I myself autocross regularly, as do many others I know, and it is and excellent help when doing a little cone dodging. It's even helpful when doing a little spirited driving in the hills. Have you really had any driving experience with the LSD? It's almost a necessity even for daily driving with all the torque you have to deal with.

Most people I've seen who have gone for high horsepower (all the turbo guys) still have the stock clutch/flywheel b/c it can handle the extra power created by the turbo. So the upgraded clutch/flywheel would only be after the stock one gives out which makes sense.

Wheels are one of the first things people replace on a car if it doesn't already have nice wheels. I really like the look of the "special" (as you like to call them) 17's as do most other B15 drivers. And if you already have a nice set of 17's, why upgrade any time soon? Having the nicer wheels and tires allowed me to spend my extra money on the good stuff instead of getting wheels and tires right away. I myself waited for a year and a half because I got everything else first, then the wheels last, and sold my stockers for $500 which helped to pay for my new wheels/tires.

Every SE-R I see (other than my friend Scott's) is some girl or older lady (not grannys, but middle aged) b/c I go to try to waive at them and then I realize they don't care about the car, it's just a car to them. Maybe it's different in Phoenix, but that's how it is here.

And you're right, a lot of what makes a Spec V "special" does get replaced (suspension, wheels/tires), but they're also nice to drive on until you actually get around to doing so. And if you already have a decent suspension and tires, why replace them immediately? Get everything else first, then replace them. That's how I saw it and that's what I did.

So with my calculations, for nearly the same price, you can either buy an SE-R and get everthing to make it a Spec V, or just buy a Spec V and include the cost in your financing and not have to do all the extra work to get it there, and also know that you don't have to spend as much money right off the bat because you've got a nice car from the beginning.

Look, I'm not saying you made a bad decision by getting the SE-R over the Spec V. I'm just saying it wouldn't have been my choice because of all the reasons I've stated and I'm extremely satisfied with my choices. The Spec V purchase worked really well for me. And it sounds like your choice worked out best for you the way you intended to go about things after your purchase. Your math works for you and my math works for me. I don't see us agreeing on anything at this point. I'm not going to change your mind, and you're not going to change mine. I think we've given people enough information to do their research, evaluate their wants/needs, and come up with the best decision for themselves. And with that, I'm done for the night.

[Kalok]

Okay, I don't want to continue to go back and forth on this stuff forever, but here a few responses to your comments.

First off, I got my Spec V for $17k with sunroof option in late 2002. And the SE-R's weren't going for that much less, even after negotiations, like I said around $1,500 less. And I would rather spend the extra $1,500 up front included in my 1.9% financing than to have to go and find a Spec V transmission and install it, find a Spec V interior and install it, and etc.

A turbo kit can't really make that much use of the LSD due to the simple fact that all it does is roast the tires in the first 3 gears. And many people make use of the LSD. I myself autocross regularly, as do many others I know, and it is and excellent help when doing a little cone dodging. It's even helpful when doing a little spirited driving in the hills. Have you really had any driving experience with the LSD? It's almost a necessity even for daily driving with all the torque you have to deal with.

Most people I've seen who have gone for high horsepower (all the turbo guys) still have the stock clutch/flywheel b/c it can handle the extra power created by the turbo. So the upgraded clutch/flywheel would only be after the stock one gives out which makes sense.

Wheels are one of the first things people replace on a car if it doesn't already have nice wheels. I really like the look of the "special" (as you like to call them) 17's as do most other B15 drivers. And if you already have a nice set of 17's, why upgrade any time soon? Having the nicer wheels and tires allowed me to spend my extra money on the good stuff instead of getting wheels and tires right away. I myself waited for a year and a half because I got everything else first, then the wheels last, and sold my stockers for $500 which helped to pay for my new wheels/tires.

Every SE-R I see (other than my friend Scott's) is some girl or older lady (not grannys, but middle aged) b/c I go to try to waive at them and then I realize they don't care about the car, it's just a car to them. Maybe it's different in Phoenix, but that's how it is here.

And you're right, a lot of what makes a Spec V "special" does get replaced (suspension, wheels/tires), but they're also nice to drive on until you actually get around to doing so. And if you already have a decent suspension and tires, why replace them immediately? Get everything else first, then replace them. That's how I saw it and that's what I did.

So with my calculations, for nearly the same price, you can either buy an SE-R and get everthing to make it a Spec V, or just buy a Spec V and include the cost in your financing and not have to do all the extra work to get it there, and also know that you don't have to spend as much money right off the bat because you've got a nice car from the beginning.

Look, I'm not saying you made a bad decision by getting the SE-R over the Spec V. I'm just saying it wouldn't have been my choice because of all the reasons I've stated and I'm extremely satisfied with my choices. The Spec V purchase worked really well for me. And it sounds like your choice worked out best for you the way you intended to go about things after your purchase. Your math works for you and my math works for me. I don't see us agreeing on anything at this point. I'm not going to change your mind, and you're not going to change mine. I think we've given people enough information to do their research, evaluate their wants/needs, and come up with the best decision for themselves. And with that, I'm done for the night.

No. You're saying your Spec V is superior because you don't have to tune it out of the box. As I stated earler. The Spec is what you get if you don't want to tune it out of the box. The SE-R is what you get if you do.

And as I ALSO stated, the prices were Phoenix prices. And ALOT of what goes into those prices is availability and how they are selling. In Phoenix, at the time, 80% of the b15s I looked at new were automatics. That makes availability on the stick shifts low. That drives the price up. PLUS, price is location-dependent.

A prime example of location dependent. A house the size of mine goes for $900 a month here in Phoenix. The same size house in San Diego is $3,000 a month.

So, while your numbers are applicable to YOUR situation, they are NOT applicable to ALL situations.

I know that I didn't make a bad purchase. To give you yet another example of the cost difference of my car versus a Spec V. I am paying 17% intereston my loan. Long story that's not applicable. My car payments are $414 a month @ 60 months. A Spec V was $590 a month @ 60 months. That is MUCH more than a $1,500 base price difference on the car, even financed.

[nametakennow]

The Spec V has a different target market than the "base" SE-R.

The Spec V is more geared towards the vast majority of the "tuning" crowd, it gets more visual cues and a supposed hp boost. The transmission is a true difference, but that's beside the point. Some people who would normally buy Civic Si's are buying Spec Vs, Nissan wins.

If I were buying a daily and weren't the nut that I am, I'd get a Spec V for the simple fact that it's a little sportier stock, and stock is nice when you want to keep your warranty.

However, if I were doing a project, why bother spending more for what you're going to remove? A complete Spec V conversion is pointless. If my car was purely a project, the side skirts and larger front bumper would HAVE to go, as would the wing (though my wing is going bye-bye one day anyway, if I can find a wingless blackout trunk for sale, ever).

Yes, there is a pretty big SR/QR rivalry. I don't buy into it much, I think they're overall different motors, both with potential. I prefer the SR for the beefier internals and ease of boost, it comes with a boss on the block for oil drain, all you have to do is drill and tap it, just like Nissan does at the factory, not to mention the fact that there are many different turbo manifolds that bolt right on, so it's a lot cheaper (my turbo, mani, intake pipe, and BOV cost me $550 shipped, overall my turbo project is going to run me ~$2k). Not to mention the fact that I could take over 300whp before needing internal work.

The QR, of course, has mind-blowing torque in the low rpms. I like a fat midrange because I prefer backroads cruising to all out stoplight runs, the SR gives me that. The QR would be a LOT of fun to do a heavy all motor build on, and I will admit, it has a slightly meaner sound.

...

Okay, so the QR makes me want to crap my pants, it just sounds EVIL. I love my SRs growl and all, but that extra half liter is noticeable.

[Kalok]

The Spec V has a different target market than the "base" SE-R.

The Spec V is more geared towards the vast majority of the "tuning" crowd, it gets more visual cues and a supposed hp boost. The transmission is a true difference, but that's beside the point. Some people who would normally buy Civic Si's are buying Spec Vs, Nissan wins.

If I were buying a daily and weren't the nut that I am, I'd get a Spec V for the simple fact that it's a little sportier stock, and stock is nice when you want to keep your warranty.

However, if I were doing a project, why bother spending more for what you're going to remove? A complete Spec V conversion is pointless. If my car was purely a project, the side skirts and larger front bumper would HAVE to go, as would the wing (though my wing is going bye-bye one day anyway, if I can find a wingless blackout trunk for sale, ever).

Yes, there is a pretty big SR/QR rivalry. I don't buy into it much, I think they're overall different motors, both with potential. I prefer the SR for the beefier internals and ease of boost, it comes with a boss on the block for oil drain, all you have to do is drill and tap it, just like Nissan does at the factory, not to mention the fact that there are many different turbo manifolds that bolt right on, so it's a lot cheaper (my turbo, mani, intake pipe, and BOV cost me $550 shipped, overall my turbo project is going to run me ~$2k). Not to mention the fact that I could take over 300whp before needing internal work.

The QR, of course, has mind-blowing torque in the low rpms. I like a fat midrange because I prefer backroads cruising to all out stoplight runs, the SR gives me that. The QR would be a LOT of fun to do a heavy all motor build on, and I will admit, it has a slightly meaner sound.

...

Okay, so the QR makes me want to crap my pants, it just sounds EVIL. I love my SRs growl and all, but that extra half liter is noticeable.

I think you're incorrect about the crowd thing with the differences between the Spec and the base SE-R. So we will just have to agree to disagee. Paying THAT much extra for things you're just going to throw away is silly. As I said, you'er going to throw away everything except the transmission and the interior.

But I will agree with you that the SR vs QR thing is completely stupid. As you said, they're different motors. The SR has what? Like 15 years of development and is in HOW many platforms? The QR originally was in like 4 platforms and has only been out since like 2002.

270whp is about all you can do safely on the internals on the QR, and that will cost you about $4k for the kit to do so. On the plus side, there are starting to be mroe options for us QR powered guys. Valve trains, rods, pistons, cams, headers (yes, plural since there is more than one manufacturer....heehheeh), exhausts, suspension parts.

Me, I'm not so big on the cosmetic. I like my side skirts. They're probably staying. I love the front-end. It just needs a lip. The back? I'm not so keen on the back, but I haven't seen a rear kit that rings my bell. Even when I get my car done with all of the stuff I wanna do, it's still probably going to look mostly stock, because I, for the most part, like the looks. Hell, I even like the blue color my car is. I am just goign to get it shot with better paint and a deeper looking finish.

[nametakennow]

I actually agreed with you (or at least intended to, my wording may have been off) - the differences between the crowds is as subtle as the difference between the G35c and 350Z markets - same car, more jazz (and weight) stock on the G. Though I may have just opened up a whole other can of worms with that.

I haven't seen many rear fixes that did anything for me either. I'd like a simple rear diffuser that would line up with the NISMO or similar *simple* side skirts and a front lip.

And you're right, the QR is getting support the B15 SR never really got. The RR SR20DE has one aftermarket cam option in the US, short of removing the rockers and/or using a B14 head, which would be a whole new set of problems, and only one header was redesigned to make use of the slightly more powerful roller-rocker setup, the Hotshot, which flakes ceramic everywhere, then rusts.

And yeah, I gotta agree on the paint . I love my black but the paint is weak, tiniest little touch and it cracks or chips.

[drftsil8ty]

And yeah, I gotta agree on the paint . I love my black but the paint is weak, tiniest little touch and it cracks or chips.

glad i'am not the only one that noticed that!

<off topic>

i talked bad of the spec-v, and now i would like to take back my statement on how bad they are. (story time)

so i'am driving down the road,45-50, and a lady cuts across traffic and stops and makes eye contact with me(she is like 15ft in front of me). so i was affraid that the spec could not get out of the way her in time(knowing my 240 would have no problem) sooo, i down shift and brake cut to the left just in time to be able not to t-bone her and cut right to avoid on coming traffic. so in conclusion the spec has respect now, knowing it has the ability to take corners pretty well on stock suspension. thank you spec-v for not getting me killed.

[Kalok]

glad i'am not the only one that noticed that!

<off topic>

i talked bad of the spec-v, and now i would like to take back my statement on how bad they are. (story time)

so i'am driving down the road,45-50, and a lady cuts across traffic and stops and makes eye contact with me(she is like 15ft in front of me). so i was affraid that the spec could not get out of the way her in time(knowing my 240 would have no problem) sooo, i down shift and brake cut to the left just in time to be able not to t-bone her and cut right to avoid on coming traffic. so in conclusion the spec has respect now, knowing it has the ability to take corners pretty well on stock suspension. thank you spec-v for not getting me killed.

Have you seen and of the Spec wreck pictures? It seems to hold up well enough when it's suspension fails to get it out of trouble too....heheheh

I agree that the "just an SE-R" suspension is weak compared to the Spec's higher spring rates. But the Tein Basics I am going to have within a couple of months will make up for that....hehehe Another thing that makes the "just an SE-R" feel more mushy is the sidewall height on the tires. There is ALOT of sidewall on those 16" wheels compared to the 17" Spec wheels. The outside diameters of the tire are the same, so you have alot more sidewall to flex.

[drftsil8ty]

never seen one wrecked. i have about 100 airbags though(lol).

[piknockout]

Spec V is superior out of the box as you've said. And I agree that they modded and tuned, it's essentially the same car. Buying one over the other is better depending on each person's situation. For you, it didn't make sense, but for me it did. That's what I was trying to say earlier. And I do agree to disagree and leave it at that. It all depends.

And I do believe that the Spec V is still a car to get if you want to tune right out of the box, you just get to do it over a longer period of time due to less things you need to do, and you just start at a different point. For me, since I had the suspension and wheels, I went straight for I/H/E then sway bars and then finally suspension and wheels once I had gotten my money's worth out of them. And I do really like the interior as well. But that's what worked for me, not necessarily everyone else.

I do agree that there is an SR/QR rivalry with some, but I'm not into that. They both have their good points. But I do think that over time the QR can be a really good engine, but it just needs time. I'm a fan of both engines and think they're both great for different things. I think the QR is great if you want good power N/A for pretty cheap, and the SR is better now if you're looking to do a motor build. Give it another 5 years or so, and who knows, maybe the SR won't make sense to mess with. But only time will tell.

And nametakennow, the QR has a FAT midrange, which is excellent for the backroads. Have you ever punched a modded Spec in the 3-4K RPMs? Nothing but smiles! The SR I think has the better pull in the upper RPMs where the QR seems to lack.

And Kalok, you'll like the Tein's, they're nice. They can be a little stiff at times, but I'm very happy with them. Make sure you get the Nismo LTB and RSB as well, the combination of the three will make the car feel like you're driving something completely different. You'll be happy, I promise!

[HashiriyaS14]

I've seen several people crafting ITB setups for the KA recently, to solve that "lack of a high end" problem (combined with other mods).

Has anyone ever tried to fit Gixxer throttle bodies onto a QR before? At the very worst, it'd sure look cool, lol.

[nametakennow]

Never driven a Spec .

I should have said that the powerband is massive. 3k-6750 (redline) is ALL love on the SR, from anything I've been able to dig up, the QR loses steam once it gets in those 6's.

If I had the B13 SR, I'd be able to take it to 8k with smiles... darn rocker arms...

[drftsil8ty]

the rpm cut off sucks! not used to that since i can rev my 240 to what ever i want. other from that they have power in the 3-4 range.

<off topic>

why can't i notice the cross over when it goes into the ctvc.(or what ever its called)

[drftsil8ty]

Never driven a Spec .

you can drive down and drive mine. i'am not to far.

[Kalok]

Spec V is superior out of the box as you've said. And I agree that they modded and tuned, it's essentially the same car. Buying one over the other is better depending on each person's situation. For you, it didn't make sense, but for me it did. That's what I was trying to say earlier. And I do agree to disagree and leave it at that. It all depends.

And I do believe that the Spec V is still a car to get if you want to tune right out of the box, you just get to do it over a longer period of time due to less things you need to do, and you just start at a different point. For me, since I had the suspension and wheels, I went straight for I/H/E then sway bars and then finally suspension and wheels once I had gotten my money's worth out of them. And I do really like the interior as well. But that's what worked for me, not necessarily everyone else.

I do agree that there is an SR/QR rivalry with some, but I'm not into that. They both have their good points. But I do think that over time the QR can be a really good engine, but it just needs time. I'm a fan of both engines and think they're both great for different things. I think the QR is great if you want good power N/A for pretty cheap, and the SR is better now if you're looking to do a motor build. Give it another 5 years or so, and who knows, maybe the SR won't make sense to mess with. But only time will tell.

And nametakennow, the QR has a FAT midrange, which is excellent for the backroads. Have you ever punched a modded Spec in the 3-4K RPMs? Nothing but smiles! The SR I think has the better pull in the upper RPMs where the QR seems to lack.

And Kalok, you'll like the Tein's, they're nice. They can be a little stiff at times, but I'm very happy with them. Make sure you get the Nismo LTB and RSB as well, the combination of the three will make the car feel like you're driving something completely different. You'll be happy, I promise!

Yeah. Tax season I will get the front and back bars and probably the new bushings. Then the car will really rock, I think.

[Kalok]

the rpm cut off sucks! not used to that since i can rev my 240 to what ever i want. other from that they have power in the 3-4 range.

<off topic>

why can't i notice the cross over when it goes into the ctvc.(or what ever its called)

Because the first C of CVTC means Continuous. It's not like a VTec where there is a "hump to get over before it works" scenario. The biggest "hump" for the QR is hitting 5000ish RPMS and the second intake runners open up.

[drftsil8ty]

thanks, i know nothing for the spec,its my daily. another question is, is the nismo cold air intake worth the money. i was going to have nissan install it so i can keep my warrenty.

[naed240sx]

I know alot of people here hate honda, but thats what I would get. Hondas have rock-solid reliablity. If your looking for a quick, reliable, cheap dd, then I would get an si or an rsx-s. The 05 si looks pretty nice too... fastback style, 200 hp , not bad.

Edit: haha just read your sn. You might be one of those "people who hate honda, and will probably ignore me.

[drftsil8ty]

hush you. j/k

i looked at an type s, but toooo much for the car.nice seats though.

[piknockout]

thanks, i know nothing for the spec,its my daily. another question is, is the nismo cold air intake worth the money. i was going to have nissan install it so i can keep my warrenty.

When you get an intake, you'll really be able to hear that 5K crossover when the secondaries open up. As far as the Nismo goes, it seems like a nice enough piece from what I've seen, but it's a little overpriced and DO NOT pay for the dealer to install. Do you really want to get raped? I have the AEM which I like and you can get it for right around $200 shipped. Then install it yourself. In doing so, looks like you just saved yourself around $125-$150.

Kalok, good luck with the bushing kit, I've heard it's a PITA to install. Also, I haven't heard of many people installing them, but thought I heard they make the ride pretty stiff. Do you check out b15sentra.net? If so, I would do a search over there. Very informative stuff over there on all B15 sentras.

[Kalok]

When you get an intake, you'll really be able to hear that 5K crossover when the secondaries open up. As far as the Nismo goes, it seems like a nice enough piece from what I've seen, but it's a little overpriced and DO NOT pay for the dealer to install. Do you really want to get raped? I have the AEM which I like and you can get it for right around $200 shipped. Then install it yourself. In doing so, looks like you just saved yourself around $125-$150.

Kalok, good luck with the bushing kit, I've heard it's a PITA to install. Also, I haven't heard of many people installing them, but thought I heard they make the ride pretty stiff. Do you check out b15sentra.net? If so, I would do a search over there. Very informative stuff over there on all B15 sentras.

Yeah, I'm Kalok over there too.

Yeah. I've heard the same thing about it beign a PITA.

[piknockout]

I've seen several people crafting ITB setups for the KA recently, to solve that "lack of a high end" problem (combined with other mods).

Has anyone ever tried to fit Gixxer throttle bodies onto a QR before? At the very worst, it'd sure look cool, lol.

Not familiar with this mod, but the QR is a throttle by wire system. So any change to the throttle body would involve changing everything from the pedal to the TB. This has been done once by changing to a KA TB I believe, but it was on a one-off project.

[HashiriyaS14]

Not familiar with this mod, but the QR is a throttle by wire system. So any change to the throttle body would involve changing everything from the pedal to the TB. This has been done once by changing to a KA TB I believe, but it was on a one-off project.

What is the incentive for a throttle-by-wire? The STI has one too. No matter how often it samples, it's still not as accurate as the analog response of a cable (just like CD to vinyl, analog wins). Is it less expensive or something?

[piknockout]

Sorry, I can't explain why they did that. But it's nice in the sense that you can check your CEL codes using the gas pedal. The light blinks in patterns to give you the number that you can reference online. So that part's kind of nice. But the only thing I can say is just that's how they designed the engine and it works that way in all the Altimas as well. Just how it is.

[HashiriyaS14]

With all the LCD's in cars nowadays, I'm very surprised that you can't just check error codes and causes on there (not that the Sentra has one, just speaking generally).

Anyone ever gone to the Japanese automaker sites and checked out car interiors? Notice how almost EVERY car sold there has a nice, bright, color LCD in it, right on the dash? Why the hell don't the US versions have them?