Looking at RB25 swapped S14

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
JKov240
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What's going on guys, I'm Jon btw.

Me and my brother recently came across an RB25 swapped S14 that was hiding out in the backwoods of Louisiana, haha. Anyways, we're going out to check it out again this weekend and possibly make an offer (the original owner died in a motorcycle accident, car was passed on to his dad...dad is looking to get rid of it...and is asking $4500). The car is in decent shape, needs a bit of body work/paint but has Corbeau seats, some type of exhaust, Tein coilovers, and a few more extras.

The bad...been sitting since last November, no shifter assembly, and the body work that's needed.

We're going to bring a battery and see if it will even turn over, but I was wondering if there's anything specific we need to look for (mounts, wiring, driveshaft, etc.) to make sure the swap was done right.

We're not really concerned about "fixing" the car, both me and my brother work at our dad's import auto repair shop and we have experience modifying cars (my brother's owned a turbo DSM, I'm currently driving a GS-R swapped Civic...plus our shop has built a turbo Supra, S2000, and Evo), plus my dad's 30+ years of experience on our side.

Thanks in advance


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Coolwhip
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congrats on the find. Just look for basic stuff; oil leaks, bad compression, noises, broken sensors, rust, etc.

an RB engine is like other engines so its pretty straight forward.

Check out the harness and beware of shady wiring jobs like butt-connectors and such.

Mounts, check for their construction and the placement of the shifter in the shifter hole (should be about or centered).

JKov240
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Coolwhip wrote:congrats on the find. Just look for basic stuff; oil leaks, bad compression, noises, broken sensors, rust, etc.

an RB engine is like other engines so its pretty straight forward.

Check out the harness and beware of shady wiring jobs like butt-connectors and such.

Mounts, check for their construction and the placement of the shifter in the shifter hole (should be about or centered).
Under the hood looks pretty decent, but we didn't really "dig in", just kinda stood back and checked it out. But we're supposed to head back out that way this weekend so I'll give it a closer look...what about the drive shaft?

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Coolwhip
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make sure it fits properly, and is not a hack job. Or since it's been sitting for awhile, that it's not rusted to hell or something.

JKov240
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Does the RB into a 240 swap require a custom driveshaft or what?

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ANVIL
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dont forget to check if an ecu is still in there. check to see if there is oil in it too. did the dad say that it was running before it was passed onto him?

take some pics when you go see it this weekend.

johnny butt
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take lots of pics.

usually a new driveshaft will have to be made, or yokes from the skyline driveshaft put on the s14 driveshaft, so yes, the driveshaft will have to be "custom". Check for mounts (mentioned already). And also look at basic overall condition of the suspension. You'll want 5 lugs considering it's an s14. What year is it by the way?

Never really looked into what all it takes to swap into an s14 but make sure you have that ECU.

Also check to find out if it is a Series 1 or Series 2 (Series 1 will have an ignitor chip closest to the firewall on the top of the valve cover.)

Also bring a multimeter to check sensors just in case you can't get it to start.

All-in-all I would say pick it up, if it happens to not start up offer him less than what he is asking.

The chassis (depending on condition) alone could be worth an easy 2 grand. Not to mention motorsets typically go for about 2500 (with "unknown" conditions until you swap it in and try to start it up).

4500 is a reasonable price but there's always the possibility he will sell it for less.

And hell, if all else fails I'm sure you could get your $ back from selling the chassis and motor separately. Or prepare for a rebuild. RB25s are good motors.

Welcome to Nicoclub by the way.

JKov240
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I took a picture of the engine bay last time with my phone, so I'll see if I can get that loaded up.

Here's a little summary of what I remember...

Exterior...oxidized paint in some areas, sunroof leaks (had a tarp over it), it was a 5-lug SE with 1 donut on the rear (the other wheel was in the trunk w/ a bad tire). All in all, the body was good...just needs a bit of paint and TLC.

Interior was in pretty good shape...has the Corbeau racing seats, but missing the shifter assembly which we can pick up online.

If I remember reading correctly, it was a Series 1 motor (doesn't have the variable valve timing on both cams...if I'm wrong about any of this correct me, it was a couple of weeks ago that I was researching the motor).

We're planning on offering him $3,000 for it, but hopefully he'll settle for $3,500 just because there's so many unknowns about it and it will indefinitely need some work.

Thanks for the quick/informative replies and for not being d!ck like every other forum on the Internet

JKov240
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One more question, I know with USDM Honda motors they have the engine codes and a serial number (the JDM ones do not though).....does Nissan do anything like that with their engines? Or is there any other way to figure out what year the engine is?

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Coolwhip
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check if there is a ignitor chip on the coil pack cover. Quick way to tell a S1 from a S2.

As well if the TPS is a 2 plug (on the actuall sensor) = S2.

Not to be rude but, we are here to help you determine the value of the engine... don't really care much for the chassis's paint job and condition of the car on this forum.

johnny butt
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JKov240 wrote:If I remember reading correctly, it was a Series 1 motor (doesn't have the variable valve timing on both cams...if I'm wrong about any of this correct me, it was a couple of weeks ago that I was researching the motor).
Common misconception, all RB25dets have VCT. There should be a sensor between your Intake manifold and Coolant temp. sensor about 2.5 inches in length. You will also see a hump to the left of the CAM Angle Sensor. That is where the VCT is. If you don't see that then it is not an Rb25. S2's weren't the only ones with it, the S2s had a different ECU as well as ignition system (coil packs instead of an ignitor chip I believe?)

I believe the VCT was only for the intake side anyway.

As for being able to tell which year it is...I dunno exactly. I would assume it would be from an R33.
Coolwhip wrote:Not to be rude but, we are here to help you determine the value of the engine... don't really care much for the chassis's paint job and condition of the car on this forum.
haha, that did come off as kind of rude, but what I think he really means to say is that people with an Rb25 under their hood don't really have much else to prove as far as cosmetics are concerned. 250-300hp is 250-300hp regardless of how many colors your car is. (Mine is 5. )

JKov240
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Coolwhip wrote:check if there is a ignitor chip on the coil pack cover. Quick way to tell a S1 from a S2.

As well if the TPS is a 2 plug (on the actuall sensor) = S2.

Not to be rude but, we are here to help you determine the value of the engine... don't really care much for the chassis's paint job and condition of the car on this forum.
As far as I know there isn't a specific "swapped 240sx" forum, so I'm not 100% on what the going-rate is for a RB25 swapped 240...which is why I was giving a general idea of what the car is like, so in case anybody HAD purchased a swapped 240, they could give me a general idea on what a good price is.
johnny butt wrote:haha, that did come off as kind of rude, but what I think he really means to say is that people with an Rb25 under their hood don't really have much else to prove as far as cosmetics are concerned. 250-300hp is 250-300hp regardless of how many colors your car is. (Mine is 5. )
I prefer an all-around, clean street car.....it may take a while for it to get to that point, but that's the ultimate goal IMO. Right now I'm just getting my feet wet with what's involved.

Thanks for all the help again guys I may just print out this thread and bring it with me for reference haha

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mattblancarte
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JKov240 wrote:(the original owner died in a motorcycle accident, car was passed on to his dad...dad is looking to get rid of it...
that's terrible... f'kin motorcycles killing an RB owner... more likely owner killing self by driving like an idiot...


JKov240
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mattblancarte wrote:
that's terrible... f'kin motorcycles killing an RB owner... more likely owner killing self by driving like an idiot...
Sad story for sure...the dad said he was looking to get rid of it to pay for funeral costs and damage from Hurricane Rita and Ike, which is why we don't want to lowball him but we don't want to overpay.

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Coolwhip
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All i was trying to say for lack of better words is that you came to speak to the RB-owner community in the RB engine technical sub-forum about what should be looked over/common areas of interest when purchasing such an engine, yet the description of what you were looking at slowly turned into the condition of the chassis rather than what most of these guys can grip on...the engine.

Sorry if that was uncalled for; everyone... other than that, I say get it if it runs.

JKov240
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Coolwhip wrote:All i was trying to say for lack of better words is that you came to speak to the RB-owner community in the RB engine technical sub-forum about what should be looked over/common areas of interest when purchasing such an engine, yet the description of what you were looking at slowly turned into the condition of the chassis rather than what most of these guys can grip on...the engine.

Sorry if that was uncalled for; everyone... other than that, I say get it if it runs.
It's cool dude, no big deal...I was just giving an overlook of the whole car for some input on the car as a whole and it's worth.

I'll keep ya'll updated...hopefully everything goes smoothly and MAYBE (big maybe on that) we can pick it up this weekend, but realistically it'll be Halloween weekend.


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