Purchased and trying to fix Q45 2000 have a few questions

[willko1]

delete

[carfuns]

I think I was confused.

[BadQ45t]

your picture isn't there anymore....repost that.

As for what your seeing at that price, I would probably take a pass. I have a 97' Touring, there wasn't a "Touring" model in 2000 rather the Anniversay edition which it appears that this is one of those. These cars are VERY reliable if they were properly taken care of and seem like they are very big trouble if neglected and not cheap to fix. I think for that price point you could find a better one with no rust. They are NOT rust prone cars at all so this one clearly was exposed to big time elements and also at only 75k there shouldn't be any seeping on any parts. I have 98k and zero rust, perfect under-hood and running strong. This person will not get $7,500 for the car, now way no how.

If you are interested in a 2nd Gen Q they are very good cars if you find one from CA where they didn't see tons of rain etc. Not many of them left in good shape these days either but I would keep looking or low-ball this person with $4,500 offer so you have leave 3k in the bank to fix all the stuf that will be required later on down the road like suspension updating (only Infiniti part will work for that on Anni Edition) knock sensors, O2 sensors, value cover gasgets etc. so the answer is yes they are equivalent in price as a LS400 to take care of..That said I have taken very good care of my car and knock on wood have not had any major repairs, only fluids, tune-ups, suspension updates and tires.

[Skibane]

Unlike the LS, the Q doesn't have a timing belt to replace - which makes it a little easier to maintain, IMO.


LS400 timing belt replacement

[BadQ45t]

Very good point, the VQ is a better engine than the LS400 and has less expensive services required. But given the rust and other issues I am still thnking this car is overpriced.

[paranoidjack]

It is. You can find fgy33's for $3k everywhere - put that 4k into rehab and you'll have a 10x better vehicle for the same money.

Keep looking...

[willko1]

Thank You all for the great info! I made a low ball to the owner of $4500 and he balked so his loss, it sounds like he did no major repairs except the distributor and plugs (during his time of ownership) so that says bunches about build quality. Think I will have to keep a look out for another with less miles and no active suspension, I hope that suspension wasn't base for all the 2000's and only on the touring model. Again thanks and hopefully I will find one soon.

[Skibane]

I think you did good to walk away when he didn't accept a reasonable offer.

it sounds like he did no major repairs except the distributor and plugs (during his time of ownership)

The 2000 Q45 doesn't have a distributor - so I'm not sure that I'd believe anything else he might have told you about repairs...

Think I will have to keep a look out for another with less miles and no active suspension, I hope that suspension wasn't base for all the 2000's and only on the touring model.

The "active suspension" got a lot simpler and less trouble-prone by the time the 2000 year model was produced. Unlike the all-hydraulic system of early-1990's Q45s, the later system consisted of little more than 4 special electrically-adjusted shock absorbers, controlled by the engine computer. The shocks themselves are not cheap to replace, but they're reliable - and the entire system is easy to keep running.

On the down side, the later system didn't do nearly as much for the car's performance as the earlier one did.

[maxnix]

Look around for another in Texas, FL. Many rust free examples out there if they never have lived in the salt belt.

[willko1]

Wow as far as the suspension the article on the forums that describes the bypass method (http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/q45a-a ... rsion.html)
really had me concerned, It did not help that it showed a much more complex hydraulic active suspension rather than the electric one as described above
"(The "active suspension" got a lot simpler and less trouble-prone by the time the 2000 year model was produced. Unlike the all-hydraulic system of early-1990's Q45s, the later system consisted of little more than 4 special electrically-adjusted shock absorbers, controlled by the engine computer.)" It would be great if the articles listed the years that the tech articles covers. Who do I make the donation to to get this done??
Also Thinking about the 2003-2004 M45 also any pros cons, the body is nice hopefully the mech is great also, I'm going to review to size differences between q45 m45.

[willko1]

Here is another 2000 example that is down the road from me does the underside look normal?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... OTORS:1123
To me it seems very bad but the exhaust always gets bad I thought unless stainless. Also the tires look like snow tires to me but not being from up north i am not privy to the tread patterns. I put a bid in and then had the guy send some pics if the underside, he posted on the auction also. Any advice?

[maxnix]

Ask him where the remote key fobs are. The maple trim is real but very yellow.

Color is London Grey. Plan on replacing all fluids for which there isn't a recent servicing. Adding a B&M auxiliary ATF cooler like 70264 behind driver's lower grille opening will also help.

[willko1]

Thanks I didn't even think to ask about the fob. Is the yellowing indicative of UV or was it all replaced? Do you think the rust on the underside and engine fans is from salt or just normal? Any big caution flags from the pics or things I should look for when I go see it personally (not afraid to get dirty). Thanks so much for the heads up.

[maxnix]

Check for weak spots indicating rust through. Might just be a coastal car. When from the salt belt, everything is rusted and nuts and bolts are frozen.

The maple is just yellow, but some love it. It was standard in 2001. I didn't notice the engine fans, but check for cracking of the blades and hub. $250 deduction for any crazing right there. Check for miss at idle and condition of all fluids (white paper towel test and smell.). Check rear sunscreen operation and antenna. Ask about all filters including cabin.

[willko1]

Ok great, What about the rust on the underside, If you scroll to the bottom of the page it shows underside of car (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... OTORS:1123)
is this normal? Thanks for any and all info!

[maxnix]

Ok great, What about the rust on the underside, If you scroll to the bottom of the page it shows underside of car (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... OTORS:1123)
is this normal?

Not away from the coast or the rust belt.

Check for weak spots indicating rust through. Might just be a coastal car. When from the salt belt, everything is rusted and nuts and bolts are frozen.

[willko1]

"not away from coast or the rust belt"

Meaning it was from coast or rust belt?
Seller said St Pete FL that is coastal. I have no reference for what little rust looks like on a coastal car vs normal oxidation non coastal on a q45.

[maxnix]

AZHitman's G50 from Jersye was pretty solid rust on the bottom.

[willko1]

Thanks for info much appriciated

[willko1]

Ok so I purchased the car via e-bay here is the link (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... S:3160)the seller had $4300 in it from Manheim auction and he showed me the receipt, paid $4750 (seller was peeved) and wanted to make more, now its time for renewal, will have parts list soon, one major problem front bumper sprayed and clear coat is all over time for Clay Bar and Acetone on windows.

[Skibane]

Not sure I understand your question -

They re-painted the bumper, without protecting the rest of the car from overspray?

[willko1]

looks like it, they had some idiot do a minor fix and he screwed it up

[willko1]

Just going to get a clay bar and take care of it later after the mechanical issues. Ok so here I go need to replace spark plugs for the 105K maint. Vehicle is idling a little rough so will clean MAF if I can, I think it said on one of the write ups that it could be done with gen 1 so why not gen 2? Also going to replace fuel filter and trans filter looks like the car was maintained but no records so it a guessing game. How do you get the cowling of the top of the motor I removed the four bolts but there is a strange looking nipple? Can anyone point me in the direction of best parts for the 2000 q45? Thanks I will post some pics of the process as it seem like there are just a few around, will probably have to post them to photobucket and link them. Thanks For any and all info link etc.

[willko1]

Well decided to order parts from the recommended Infiniti part USA guys, Joe helped me out, here is what I think needs to be done for maintenance. Prices for fan blade, trans filter, plugs, thermostat etc below

Code Item Qty Price Grand Total
165461P100- Air Filter
(16546-1P100)
1 $14.95 $14.95

3172851X04- Strainer Assy-Oil
(31728-51X04)
1 $30.03 $30.03

3152641X07- Seal-O Ring
(31526-41X07)
1 $1.20 $1.20

164000W005- Fuel Filter
(16400-0W005)
1 $12.00 $12.00

212006P001- Thermostat
(21200-6P001)
1 $17.19 $17.19

210606P00A- Fan Blade
(21060-6P00A)
1 $95.06 $95.06

0155309241- Reinforcement Clip
(01553-09241)
12 $1.22 $14.64

1652331U00- Air Tube Insulator
(16523-31U00)
1 $6.95 $6.95

224011P116- Spark Plug
(22401-1P116)
8 $9.74 $77.92

Subtotal: $269.94
Tax: $0.00
Shipping Cost: $17.81
Grand Total: $287.75

[willko1]

Ok so 2000 q45 had some minor stumbling issues at idle both in park and drive, sitting at 600 rpm. Pulled off air filter and cleaned it out sucked out debris from air box and sprayed MAF through screen. Sprayed can of throttle body in throttle body car would not run at all so I just sprayed not running and opened up flapper tons of black crap came out, pulled the brake booster vac line and sucked a can of sea foam through while running, ran car and blew it out, connected OBD and cleared knock sensor and MAF code. Let it sit and idle for 15 minutes no stumble and at 740 rpm so hopefully its fixed for now. Would like to pull off the intake manifold and really clean it out, don't know how long it would take but I am going to replace Main Fan (not aux) next week and thermostat so it may be better to do it then. Should I replace anything else while I have it apart? Looked at oil fill cap and there was nice black sludge on it so I put half a can of sea foam in will get oil change tomorrow, any type/weight of oil better than others? You Q gurus really seem to know your stuff thanks for all the info you provide.

[willko1]

I am trying to find out if its normal when shifting from park to drive or reverse should the car move up and down a little or if this is and issue. I remember an old dodge rear wheel v8 that did that and I was told it was the U joints. Is the drive shaft on these prone to u-joint replacement or could this be trans or motor mounts?

[maxnix]

Seafoam is a placebo. It does nothing. Cleaning MAF is usually not necessary unless air filter change intervals are extended.

Scan if and I bet you have some misfire codes. Shocks sound like they are shot if car is changing attitude that much.

[willko1]

Seafoam is a placebo. It does nothing. Cleaning MAF is usually not necessary unless air filter change intervals are extended.

Scan if and I bet you have some misfire codes. Shocks sound like they are shot if car is changing attitude that much.

Air Box was bad lots of trash against screen, have read the 2nd gen q45 stumbling forum thread and think new coils are in order, MAF cleaning cant hurt (tap side for circuit board test). I think cleaning out the intake is just good maint, sea foam does that not sure about what it does in the oil exactly. Not sure if my actron obd scanner CP9145 will show misfire specifics as far as cylinders. But it did show a code for MAF after I tried to run the car without MAF hooked up. How are shocks besides the bounce test they don't really bounce, it feels like a hard hit when I go over a speed bump slow I thought that was odd but may be tire pressure. Thanks For the heads up much appreciated.