Looking at a 95 Q45...

[ScarFace88]

Hey y'all, I test drove a 95 Q45 the other day, and it was pulling to the left. The car does have bad tires {they're dryrotted}, but I was wondering if this is a common symptom for anything in the suspension besides accident damage. The seller says the car wasn't hit, but I haven't carfaxed it yet. The car only has 105k and is in pretty good shape for the year {some clearcoat peeling, no sound from the radio, and things in the interior that need to be reglued, apparently the FL heat is tough on interiors} and the seller wants 1800 for it.

What do you guys think?

[maxnix]

Maintenance history? Fluid condition? Tech inspection?

[ScarFace88]

I didn't check the fluids or look at the maintenance history, sorry {I know, I know, I should have done that!}. It didn't have any issues shifting, abnormal vibrations, leaks, or make any weird noises other than tire related stuff {tires have some flat spots from sitting, in addition to the aforementioned dryrot}. I wanted to have my mechanic look it over, but the car isn't tagged or insured, so it would need to be towed to his shop, and I don't want to spend a hundred bucks or so just to get a car to a shop {my mechanic doesn't have the time to go and look at a car, he's really busy}. I do have AAA, but I think they don't allow you to use your membership to get a tow for a car that doesn't belong to you.

[qship96]

I certainly would not buy it if you are unwilling to spend $100 to have it towed to your mechanic for a complete inspection first. These are OLD complicated,relatively rare beasts that are tough to find a technician familiar with the car,and expensive to properly maintain,as there is almost no aftermarket parts available to save money VS purchasing OEM factory parts.....and those factory parts prices went from being priced high to absolutely sky high in the last few years.....and some critical parts are no longer available.

If you are looking for a project,and have the time and money available to put into it,buy it only after a professional tech looks it over......there is usually $3000-5000 worth of dead or near death components hiding under the shiny body that you must be able to shell out on top of the purchase price.

[ScarFace88]

I certainly would not buy it if you are unwilling to spend $100 to have it towed to your mechanic for a complete inspection first. These are OLD complicated,relatively rare beasts that are tough to find a technician familiar with the car,and expensive to properly maintain,as there is almost no aftermarket parts available to save money VS purchasing OEM factory parts.....and those factory parts prices went from being priced high to absolutely sky high in the last few years.....and some critical parts are no longer available.

If you are looking for a project,and have the time and money available to put into it,buy it only after a professional tech looks it over......there is usually $3000-5000 worth of dead or near death components hiding under the shiny body that you must be able to shell out on top of the purchase price.

It's not that I'm unwilling, it's just that I would prefer not to.

And 3-5k worth of dead stuff on a 15 year old car with 105k? Is that what the dealer would cost to go through it? I know rubber hoses and belts go bad with age, but that's a bit surprising to me. Can you specify exactly what I would likely have to replace? I looked at the FAQ, and I didn't see anything big, the car in question is not a Q45A, it's a base model without the hydro suspension. I don't mind getting my hands dirty, but I'd prefer to not have to work on the car constantly.

[qship96]

Just too many common procedures and parts that need attention on a old Q to mention.......regardless if it only has 105K on it, {actually with only 105K on it in 17 years.....says to me it was driven in the city on mostly short trips which is usually worse than a higher mile car that was mostly highway driven}Just the under plenum hose kit is $1000 in parts alone,and another $500-700 labor if you do not do it yourself.Replacing shocks is $500-800 in parts alone,the list goes on and on.spend some time reading the posts here to learn the routine procedures and parts replacement needs of these old cars,as you should be going into this with eyes wide open.......do not let the sales price fool you into thinking you are making a inexpensive choice in transportation......you are most definitely NOT,as ongoing costs will average 200-300 per month to properly maintain AFTER you fix anything hidden that is in need of replacing.

[maxnix]

It's not that I'm unwilling, it's just that I would prefer not to.

And 3-5k worth of dead stuff on a 15 year old car with 105k? Is that what the dealer would cost to go through it? I know rubber hoses and belts go bad with age, but that's a bit surprising to me. Can you specify exactly what I would likely have to replace?

Which means you are feeling lucky.

Start with tension rod bushings and continue with all suspension rubber front and rear. Shocks and rotors, spark plugs, brake pads, all fluids, tires (good luck there!), and things start to add up. He should pay you to take it away.

[qship96]

Just to make it crystal clear, between the monthly ongoing maintenance and fuel costs of operating a old g50,I could 100% finance a brand new Prius.........brand new.....-zero down.....-and have a bumper to bumper warranty. NO JOKE.

[OwnerCS]

Much good advice provided in this thread. Just plan to have $3,000 to $5,000 on hand to take care of the incidentals that will come up during your first year of ownership.

[ScarFace88]

I guess I'll go back to looking at Mustangs and other American cars then... This is what happens when you follow your parent's advice kids {I'm 22 and my dad still gives me advice on stuff}...

[OwnerCS]

A fun Nissan sedan that you can get into for relatively low cost with an abundance of after-market parts is the 95-99 model Maxima or same generation Infiniti I30.

We call those generations of Maxima and I30 the DSC4 -- for 4th generation.

I bought a 95 model Maxima with a 5-speed for my oldest son -- then a 99 model I30 for my youngest son.. Both have good gas mileage and with a modest cost for new Tokico struts and poly bushings provide great handling performance.

Check out the following videos..

In many cases, you can swing a better deal for an I30 than a comparable Maxima..

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5a9C451ZlnA[/youtube]

and for the I30

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f7G5ViTrCwo[/youtube]

[ScarFace88]

A fun Nissan sedan that you can get into for relatively low cost with an abundance of after-market parts is the 95-99 model Maxima or same generation Infiniti I30.

We call those generations of Maxima and I30 the DSC4 -- for 4th generation.

I bought a 95 model Maxima with a 5-speed for my oldest son -- then a 99 model I30 for my youngest son.. Both have good gas mileage and with a modest cost for new Tokico struts and poly bushings provide great handling performance.

Check out the following videos..

In many cases, you can swing a better deal for an I30 than a comparable Maxima..

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5a9C451ZlnA[/youtube]

and for the I30

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f7G5ViTrCwo[/youtube]

I was looking at those as well, since a family friend has one of those Maximas, but my big concern is the headroom. I'm 6'2 and wear pants with a 30 inch inseam. It was a bit of a tight fit up front, but I was in the passenger seat which, as you probably know, isn't height adjustable. Eye level was about an inch or two from the top of the windshield. Is the headroom better on the driver's side?

[OwnerCS]

I found the leg room on the Maxima to be better than the 91 Q45. The seat can be positioned farther back it seems than the Q45. I don't know about the 95 model Q45 in regard to leg room though..

The Infiniti I30 has electric seats for both driver and passenger.

BTW - I'm 6'3" - with a 34 inseam..

[maxnix]

Legroom is better than in a G50, head room may be also. FWD, rear beam axle, are definite compromises but the car is bullet proof if maintained.

My tech has a low mileage 2000 SE (5 speed) he is asking $3.5K for.