Looking at a 91 hatch, opinions/advice please! (Update+Pics)

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
deca
Posts: 5
Joined: Tue Sep 04, 2012 9:19 am

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I just found out about a 1991 240SX hatch in my area for 1200. I wasn't really in the market for a car but I've been wanting to get into drifting since high school (I graduated college in 09) and it seems like this might be too good to pass up. I've actually been feeling kind of guilty for going so long without actually getting involved in any sort of motorsports given how interested I've been for so long. Seeing as I wasn't really searching I hadn't done much research, and apparently several others are seriously interested as well so I don't have a ton of time to make my decision.

The car has a KA24, no serious mods as far as I know. ~165k miles, 5sp, VLSD and upgraded clutch. He said it could use new bushings and needs new tires. Apparently the steering box was seriously damaged yesterday but he's open to repairing it before sale without raising the price.

The car isn't beautiful (currently all primer), but in the picture he sent it doesn't look too beat up. He says it burns a little oil but could be dailied as is for whatever thats worth, he's currently driving it and not anxious to get rid of it. I'm planning to go look at it tomorrow and check for rust and any other issues.

So what do you guys think and what specific issues should I be watching for when I look at it? Where are the trouble areas for rust and how should I let it affect my decision? This seems like a good deal, I don't often see 240s at this price and especially without extensive mods, but I'm definitely not an expert on this car. I have a reliable daily, this would be a weekend driver and drifter. I'm sure it'll need a tuneup and some money put into it, I'm mostly concerned with big issues that could screw me over down the line.

I'm planning to go take a look at it tonight or tomorrow and come back with additional photos, are there any important areas I should look at that I may not think of? Friend of mine suggested taking a mechanic out to look it over but I'm not sure where to find a good one around here off the top of my head.

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Last edited by deca on Tue Sep 04, 2012 7:27 pm, edited 1 time in total.


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Lobo240sx
Posts: 779
Joined: Wed Dec 01, 2010 7:39 am
Car: 1991 Nissan 240sx Coupe SR2.35DET Redtop Build
Location: Austin, Texas USA

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Look at the frame rails, shock towers for rust. since it is a hatch, check the spare tire area. A lot of times the hatch leaks and water sits back there.

deca
Posts: 5
Joined: Tue Sep 04, 2012 9:19 am

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I'm back with photos and...I'm not incredibly optimistic. Want to hear from some of you guys though before I make a call one way or another.

First the good, the engine started instantly and idles better than both of my cars. At a glance it's in great condition. The hatch doesn't leak and the interior seems pretty nice. It apparently began life with HICAS but the owner before it's current owner replaced the rear suspension with normal parts. I didn't spot obvious rust on the shock wells or strut pillars but that doesn't mean it's not there, I'm new to all of this. He claims the transmission has never given him any problems whatsoever, but I can't verify since it was undriveable due to the steering issue. For whatever it's worth the guy seemed very honest and wasn't trying to talk the car up or brush aside any issues I noticed and brought up.

On to the not so good. Just about all of the body panels have signs of rust and are generally iffy, the back end has a lot of fiberglass. The steering issue I mentioned before was elaborated on. He said the first sign was the steering skipping as if it were missing a tooth or something, and eventually it basically completely disengaged. Apparently someone else looking at the car is more familiar with 240s and seemed to think it was a fairly common issue and not a huge deal to repair. The owner and myself are unsure whether the rack somehow came loose/disengaged or if it's actually stripped, so we have no idea what the cost of that repair would be. In light of this he was willing to lower the price to 900, and didn't seem completely opposed to going lower than that. One of the last things I noticed was that the drivers side door seemed to drop down very slightly when I opened it, I stupidly didn't think to get a picture of the door hinge. Not sure if this should be a cause for concern, it didn't make any weird noises and rust didn't fall out of the door as it opened or anything.

And finally the bad. I noticed some problem areas on the frame that to me look pretty severe, but as I said I have no experience with these cars yet. The worst was on the left side behind the engine bay, I'll post pictures of everything. There was a hole rusted through the drivers side front wheel well, but as far as I know that's something that could be ground out and fiberglassed over.

I'm trying to decide if there's enough right with this car for it to be worth 8-900 (or what you think a fair price for it would be). Having seen the rust on the frame I'm not incredibly optimistic, but I could be wrong and it's not a big deal or is easy to fix for all I know. Do you think I should be considering this car or would the money be better spent on one in better shape? I'm kind of settled on picking up a 240 at this point, I think it's the right hobby car for me right now.

Here's a link to the album that hopefully works, and I'll insert pics I think are particularly relevant below. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/30oyicjy7tva53q/FDjFpln_GI

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Lobo240sx
Posts: 779
Joined: Wed Dec 01, 2010 7:39 am
Car: 1991 Nissan 240sx Coupe SR2.35DET Redtop Build
Location: Austin, Texas USA

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That is a lot of body work to be done... I'd find a cleaner shell personally.

jsturges18
Posts: 297
Joined: Wed Nov 03, 2010 1:42 pm
Car: 1990 240sx hatch - totaled/parts car
1990 240sx hatch - replacement
2005 pt cruiser
2004 350Z
Location: connecticut

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why are there holes near the shock towers? and seems like there alot more rust than it is worth it. i would be very scared of that thing falling apart while driving. not worth it

deca
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Joined: Tue Sep 04, 2012 9:19 am

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Alright, that's honestly how I was feeling too.

Should I be considering it as a drivetrain donor at all?

jsturges18
Posts: 297
Joined: Wed Nov 03, 2010 1:42 pm
Car: 1990 240sx hatch - totaled/parts car
1990 240sx hatch - replacement
2005 pt cruiser
2004 350Z
Location: connecticut

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if he lowers the price. i think it would be a good donor car, especially toward the body panels. they look to be in good shape. id say to try to look for a better one first

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blkvrtswp
Posts: 509
Joined: Mon May 30, 2011 6:45 pm
Car: 93 240SX Convertible
SR20DET FP 20G Turbo
Location: Poughkeepsie, NY

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With all that frame rot, the car is completely unsuitable to any kind of racing. You'll twist it apart. The big hole is from brake fluid, and indicates a terribly maintained car.

I would definitely PASS.

mechanicalmoron
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Joined: Fri Apr 29, 2011 1:04 am

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blkvrtswp wrote:With all that frame rot, the car is completely unsuitable to any kind of racing. You'll twist it apart. The big hole is from brake fluid, and indicates a terribly maintained car.

I would definitely PASS.
.....brake fluid won't eat metal, just paint.

But that car would be a very bad choice, unless you wanted to totally tear it down, do some serious welding (if you wanted a race car, you could also take the time to gusset stuff and stiffen it up) and body repair (and NOT with fibreglass in the engine bay... structural stuff needs to be welded) and whatnot.

If you wanted a ground-up build, offer him 450 to make it disappear, if OP is still around or still cares. Cause between being undrivable and having the frame about to fall apart..... dayum, I paid less than 800 and my car SORT OF drives, ten thousand miles later no less.

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blkvrtswp
Posts: 509
Joined: Mon May 30, 2011 6:45 pm
Car: 93 240SX Convertible
SR20DET FP 20G Turbo
Location: Poughkeepsie, NY

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.....brake fluid won't eat metal, just paint.
Exactly. The brake fluid leaks and eats through the paint, then the bare metal rusts. I've seen a hole just like that on 3 or 4 S13s.

deca
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Joined: Tue Sep 04, 2012 9:19 am

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Alright well, the search begins anew I guess! I guess I'll just start looking for something that doesn't need too much work done on it, I've always been leaning more toward an S13 coupe or an S14 zenki over the hatch (not that I have anything against it).

I saw an S14 zenki with a RB20 swap, and another with extensive engine work up on Ann Arbor, MI craigslist as well, around 4k for the RB and 5k for the other. They look like nice cars at a glance but I'm always going to be wary of something with such extensive work...I need to find a knowledgeable member or reputable mechanic in my area to consult, it'd make me feel a lot more comfortable before making any expensive decisions.

mechanicalmoron
Posts: 790
Joined: Fri Apr 29, 2011 1:04 am

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deca wrote:Alright well, the search begins anew I guess! I guess I'll just start looking for something that doesn't need too much work done on it, I've always been leaning more toward an S13 coupe or an S14 zenki over the hatch (not that I have anything against it).

I saw an S14 zenki with a RB20 swap, and another with extensive engine work up on Ann Arbor, MI craigslist as well, around 4k for the RB and 5k for the other. They look like nice cars at a glance but I'm always going to be wary of something with such extensive work...I need to find a knowledgeable member or reputable mechanic in my area to consult, it'd make me feel a lot more comfortable before making any expensive decisions.
Bear in mind not only the value of what you're buying, but also that if you don't know enough about it, EVEN if you get a really good deal on the car, when something breaks you may be in a much worse situation with a car that's far from stock with out the ability to work on it yourself, unless you have a shop that is comfortable with aftermarket modifications.

deca
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Joined: Tue Sep 04, 2012 9:19 am

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Yeah, another reason I'm hesitant. I'm not against swaps, I'd just much rather have done it myself and know exactly how it was done.

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Sean Griffin 13
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Joined: Wed Sep 05, 2012 9:49 pm
Car: 1990 240sx
Location: California

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Corrosion under Frame= :nono: I wouldn't even take it if it was free.That's a lot of work to repair then the car is even worth.

mechanicalmoron
Posts: 790
Joined: Fri Apr 29, 2011 1:04 am

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Sean Griffin 13 wrote:Corrosion under Frame= :nono: I wouldn't even take it if it was free.That's a lot of work to repair then the car is even worth.
Ehh.... weld small I-beams to the frame rails, such that they encase and replace the rails :naughty:

I assume OP is in the north, in which case.... every car will look like that.

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blkvrtswp
Posts: 509
Joined: Mon May 30, 2011 6:45 pm
Car: 93 240SX Convertible
SR20DET FP 20G Turbo
Location: Poughkeepsie, NY

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I assume OP is in the north, in which case.... every car will look like that.
Not really.

I live in NY, and I have personally looked at over a hundred 240sx's since 1996 (owned 17, passed on 10, shop did over 90 different cars), and less than 10% of them had frame rot, in fact the vast majority had ZERO rust anywhere, especially if there was no body damage.

Perhaps many were garaged or only driven in the summer, and I'll admit I did not go looking at total junkers, but just assuming there will be rust on a snow-belt 240sx is a mistake.

Hold out for a better car!

EDIT: Check this out: http://www.xcessivemanufacturing.com/ON ... =4&pid=172

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mechanicalmoron
Posts: 790
Joined: Fri Apr 29, 2011 1:04 am

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blkvrtswp wrote:
I assume OP is in the north, in which case.... every car will look like that.
Not really.

I live in NY, and I have personally looked at over a hundred 240sx's since 1996 (owned 17, passed on 10, shop did over 90 different cars), and less than 10% of them had frame rot, in fact the vast majority had ZERO rust anywhere, especially if there was no body damage.

Perhaps many were garaged or only driven in the summer, and I'll admit I did not go looking at total junkers, but just assuming there will be rust on a snow-belt 240sx is a mistake.

Hold out for a better car!

EDIT: Check this out: http://www.xcessivemanufacturing.com/ON ... =4&pid=172

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Well yes, a carefully babied car won't be out of control, but not everybody has a garage, and a lot of the cheaper 240s available where some middle-aged lady's daily for many years, and as such, will be rusty. Even those with loving owners who just don't have a winter beater will be rusty.

And good god, those repair peices cost about 4 times what I'd pay before just bending up some steel..... You have to weld it anyways....

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blkvrtswp
Posts: 509
Joined: Mon May 30, 2011 6:45 pm
Car: 93 240SX Convertible
SR20DET FP 20G Turbo
Location: Poughkeepsie, NY

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Nah, not babied cars. All kinds. The point is do not assume snow-belt cars are all rusty, or you will miss out on nice cars. MOST 240's have zero rust in NY.


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