Long term damage from a BOV??

[raf702]

Well I recently installed a vented Sard BOV on my sr20det, it's been running perfectly with it for at least 2 weeks now. And the other day I drove the car a bit hard which I hardly do, I'd say changing gears at around 6-6.5 rpms.

Then all of a sudden when I start cruising and enter into boost. I let go of the gas pedal when coming to a stop. And the idle drops as if it's going to stall but will pick back up, and will also stall as well. And of course I knew that BOV's would cause this problem. But never had this issue with any of my previous turbocharged car's that I've owned when running a BOV. I know there isn't any vacuum leaks, cause at idle my boost gauge will read; 19-20hg vac, which I know is normal.

Now since this is occuring everytime I go into boost and letting off the gas pedal. I know there is a adjustment screw on top. Which I tried adjusting but was already tightened to it's max. Maybe the BOV has become faulty? since the adjustment screw has been tightened all the way.

What long term damage to the motor/engine can occur from those issues when running a BOV? I know some will say just recirculate it or use the stock one, etc. but I like the BOV's and the noise they make. Thanks for inputs.

[s13-t]

where your other tubo cars MAF or MAP sensor? sr uses MAF and with a BOV you will stall out after hard acceleration without an ecu flash. when I first dropped my sr into my s chassis I used a greddy rs vented bov and when cruising it wouldnt stall but after boosting it would. then I got the recirc fitting and it never did it again.

long term affects of constantly stalling out? bad MPG, extra fuel burning in exhaust- possibly. I doubt anything major would go wrong.

[raf702]

I see, well my previous car was an mr2 w/3sgte im sure uses maf, never stalled or anything with an hks ssqv vented. Even when driven with hard acceleration. A reflash plus other mods are soon to come. This was a concern of mine due to the stalling after acceleration in boost. Thanks for your input.

[cody180sx]

did your car back fire my car does after boosting hard. it spits and sputters until back pressure builds back up then runs fine

[raf702]

did your car back fire my car does after boosting hard. it spits and sputters until back pressure builds back up then runs fine

No backfires, or any other issues from result of the BOV.

[Justin35ll]

Mine did the same thing when it wasn't recirculated. Then I recirced it and it runs great. Just surges which will cause damage grr need a good bov

[S14toRPS13]

That's always the problems with bov's and SR's . It's either you put up with a little bit of surge or you put up with a little bit of a stall in between light shifts. Take your pick unless you want to recirculate it and get over the "psshhhh" sound. I haven't seen anyone with a Synapse bov on a SR. It's suppose to help a lot with those problems. Maybe you should get a Synapse bov and see how much of an improvement it is.

[aznrib]

I have a synapse and it leaks. Its been giving me all sorts of problems. I picked up a Greddy rs so I'm gonna see how that runs. The hks ssqv runs really nice on our cars because its self adjusting. Its just that you get the annoying ricer whistle.

[I ask good questions]

you dont have to run the insert in the ssqv. I dont have it in mine and it does fine!

[s13gebala]

my sr does the same thing, sometimes i can rev it to redline and drop and it will nicely go down to idle rpm's

other times it just goes down or stalls out.. :[

[S14toRPS13]

I have a synapse and it leaks. Its been giving me all sorts of problems. I picked up a Greddy rs so I'm gonna see how that runs. The hks ssqv runs really nice on our cars because its self adjusting. Its just that you get the annoying ricer whistle.

Really? All this hype that they were giving it and it leaks? Maybe I'll just stick with my blitz bov then.

My nephew runs the HKS bov on his, and it surges a slight bit too. That's why I didn't get a a HKS one either.

[dc1984]

i used to have a blitz dd BOV on my sr, i could feel the air coming out with my hand, but was very quit, couldnt hear the BOV but it still had massive compressor surge. couldnt figure it out for the life of me. my buddy had an hks bov so i tried that real quick on mine and it worked grest, no surge at all. after buying and installing my hks bov, i found out that i probly just have the hard blitz bov spring meant for like 20+ psi. 15 dollar fix and i went ahead and bought that spendy a** hks bov, works realy good though. although im not the biggest fan of the high pitch noise. one of these days imna get around to buying the softer spring bor the blitz bov and retry tht to see if i like the sound better.

as for the stlling, if u know ur going to come to a stop, let off the gas pedel for a second before u clutch it, that helps a lot for me. other than that, recirculate it or tune for it, thats about all u can do

[VNG704]

HKS ssqv here and no surges...? some flutter though.

[codyace]

All of these reponses with no solution!!

Wanna know what your problem is? You're not recirculating the blow of valve!

I dont care what anyone says, or what anyone thinks they are tuned for: MAF cars need their BOV recirculated. Sure, there will always be a car or two out of 50 that run ok without this issue,but they normally have their idle cranked to compensate.

Spend the time to recirculate the BOV, and you'll notice better survivability, no more stalling, and better performance.

[cody180sx]

HKS ssqv here and no surges...? some flutter though.

my sr does the same thing, sometimes i can rev it to redline and drop and it will nicely go down to idle rpm's other times it just goes down or stalls out.. :[

mine does this too but it usually backfires like a mofo then stalls are idels bad until the back pressure builds back up not often but it happens. I've had 2 back fires that scared me so bad i thought i threw a rod and the car shuddered but runs fine other wise. I know it has to do with running the stock fpr with the walbro 255 runs real rich

[Justin35ll]

No. It runs rich because your ecu is compensating for the extra air that should be entering the engine, but when you decide to have an atmosperic bov and the ecu doesn't know that it's still adding the excess fuel it thinks it needs during a shift causing the backfiresBut an aftermarket fpr will help for correcting your a/f ratio as well

recirculated ftw

[dc1984]

All of these reponses with no solution!!

Wanna know what your problem is? You're not recirculating the blow of valve!

3 people before u mentioned recirculating the bov. even the OP said he knew about recirculating it, he just likes the sound

I know it has to do with running the stock fpr with the walbro 255 runs real rich

the fuel pump is not responsible for rich running vehicles. all the fuel pump does is supply the fuel to the fuel rail for the injectors, which are controlled by the ecu. and justin explained how the running rich happens with open bovs.

[cody180sx]

i was told the walbro 255 raises fuel pressure from 36 psi to 45-46 psi it has to go somewhere also heard it causes problems for the injectors and fpr running that high of fuel pressure

[DrifterProdigy85]

Id check other thing like Boost Leaks and things of that sort. It doesnt sound BOV related if the car drove perfect for 2 weeks with the SARD and then once you drove it hard is when you got the problems. I had a SARD on my old RB that was all stock otherwise and it never had stalling issues. Also had a Greddy Type R and RS on my SR and never had stalling issues. I think your problem is elsewhere.