I need some advice/suggestions from those in the "know" on this great forum...
Have a '95 J30t with just over 150,000 miles on it. Original timing belt was replaced in 2001 at 75,000 miles by original owner. I bought it 2 years ago when it had around 133,000 miles on it.
In November 2007 had water pump replaced. The place I took to it specializes in Japanese and European cars and have a good rep in the Indy area. However, in January of this year the water pump failed and fan came off...had it towed back in to the same place and was told that apparently the water pump was installed wrong and when it came off it took the fan with it. They replaced the water pump again along with the fan... I should have had them replace the timing belt while they were at it but neglected to do so. Guess I figured it still had some life to it as that is what they told me. Had to take it back in that same day in January because the belts were squealing like a bat out of hell. Re-adjusted them and things were fine.
OK...a week ago, went to start the car in the morning (it was cold outside) and got MAJOR squealing and gassy smell. I turned the heater off and the defogger off and the squealing subsided fairly soon. I also put the air circulation flow on the inside and that helped with the gassy smell...this has been a common occurence when it has been cold outside ever since I have had this car. Anyway, once the car gets warmed up the squealing is not a problem, even with the heat or AC on...and the gassy smell goes away.
I decided to take it back in to the same place I took it for the water pump replacement to "have things checked out" as my youngest son may be taking it with him to college pretty soon. When they called me back earlier today this is what they told me:
-Fuel Injector rings need to be replaced-Intake Manifold gasket needs to be replaced-Valve Cover gasket needs to be replaced(for these 3 items they are quoting me $1,051.00)
-They are also telling me that the Timing Belt needs to be replaced (they are quoting me $1200 for this...this is fairly irritating to me since I asked them when they replaced the water pump both times if this needed to be done and was told no...which I know is an inexact science but the car has only been driven around 7,000 miles since January and the current timing belt has around 75,000 miles on it). I can't believe I just didn't have them do it anyway.
So...basically I am being told that it will cost me around $2,300 to take care of this... Does this sound right? I know that those of you that are mechanically inclined can do this for A LOT less but that's not the case with me...unfortunately. I LOVE this car but if the price I am being quoted sounds right/fair then am not sure that is feasible...which sucks big time.
Finally, anybody know of mechanics in the Indianapolis area (preferrably northside) that works on J30's...? Again, sorry for such a long and rambling post...
Long post but several questions...timing belt, manifold/valve cover gasket, etc.
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coolyun_98
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- Car: 1993 J30 11,7000kM
Re: Long post but several questions...timing belt, manifold/valve c ... (jlong4)
I share your frustration! I have being doing a lot of work on my J and I think I know a bit about what is happening to your car.
1) Get the timing belt done, no question about it. 1200 is WAY too much to replace timing belt. It should be around 500. If you are mechnically inclined, you can save TONs by replacing the belt yourself. I did it myself with no drama.
-Fuel Injector rings need to be replacedwhy does the mechnic what to do that? do you have hydro locking (aka. really hard to start/rough start). Is there a LOT of gasline smell from your engine oil?-Intake Manifold gasket needs to be replacedagain, manifold gasket does NOT break unless you pull the manifold. This is BS.-Valve Cover gasket needs to be replacedagain, valave cover gaskets (only the intake side of the valve cover has gasket) can leak a ilttle bit of engine oil with age. This is ABSOLUTELY fine. I don't know why the mechnic whats to touch it!
(for these 3 items they are quoting me $1,051.00)
2) MAJOR squealing and gassy smellsquealing can come from that your alternator belt is slipping. it is slipping because there is much load to the alternator (the battery can not supply much electricity when it is cold, the alternator has to work hard to compensate that). if that's the case, the "gassy" smell might come from the fact that there is not enough electricity to sustain a good combustion.
my susgestion a) go to the deal and get the timing belt done. i would not go back to the original mechnic. the price should be about 500. at the same time, ask the dealer to replace the ascessory belts.b) try new batteryc) get a tune up = new spark plugs, new fuel filters, bg44k in the tank...etc
J is one nice car, good lcuk
1) Get the timing belt done, no question about it. 1200 is WAY too much to replace timing belt. It should be around 500. If you are mechnically inclined, you can save TONs by replacing the belt yourself. I did it myself with no drama.
-Fuel Injector rings need to be replacedwhy does the mechnic what to do that? do you have hydro locking (aka. really hard to start/rough start). Is there a LOT of gasline smell from your engine oil?-Intake Manifold gasket needs to be replacedagain, manifold gasket does NOT break unless you pull the manifold. This is BS.-Valve Cover gasket needs to be replacedagain, valave cover gaskets (only the intake side of the valve cover has gasket) can leak a ilttle bit of engine oil with age. This is ABSOLUTELY fine. I don't know why the mechnic whats to touch it!
(for these 3 items they are quoting me $1,051.00)
2) MAJOR squealing and gassy smellsquealing can come from that your alternator belt is slipping. it is slipping because there is much load to the alternator (the battery can not supply much electricity when it is cold, the alternator has to work hard to compensate that). if that's the case, the "gassy" smell might come from the fact that there is not enough electricity to sustain a good combustion.
my susgestion a) go to the deal and get the timing belt done. i would not go back to the original mechnic. the price should be about 500. at the same time, ask the dealer to replace the ascessory belts.b) try new batteryc) get a tune up = new spark plugs, new fuel filters, bg44k in the tank...etc
J is one nice car, good lcuk
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yodawill2000
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Re: (yodawill2000)
The recommended change interval for the timing belt is every 105,000 miles.
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maxnix
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1995 Infiniti Q45t
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Re: (Victor)
Yeah, that was a major miss when they were changing out the water pump as additional labor is $0.00.Victor wrote:The recommended change interval for the timing belt is every 105,000 miles.
Re: Long post but several questions...timing belt, ... (coolyun_98)
Thanks for the replies so far... Yeah, I should have had them go ahead and replace the timing belt when they replaced the water pump...both times!!! But I guess that is my fault, although I figured it still had a ways to go, since the original had already been replaced at 75,000 miles. It still bothers me that I asked both times they replaced the water pump if it needed to be done and they said no...not their fault though, should have just had them go ahead and do it. I am not mechanically inclined by any means so not something I can do on my own, at all.
As far as the fuel injectors rings, intake manifold gasket and valve cover gasket...the mechanic basically said it is a safety hazard now. The guy who I talked to is Russian and VERY hard to understand, but got the gist of it and wrote down what he said. The car itself is not hard to start at all and doesn't have a rough start...it does idle a little rough. especially when the ac/heat is turned on but just figured it needed new plugs, etc...which I planned on doing. There does not seem to be any gasoline smell coming from the engine oil.
When you say the manifold gasket does not break unless you pull the manifold...what exactly does that mean in layman terms?
RE: the squealing and gassy smell...so are you saying that the gassy smell might be from a lack of power needed for good combustion? Now that I think about it...the other day when I started it in the morning and had the squealing and gassy smell the battery light was flickering a little but when I turned the power off to the heat and the defogger (thinking it would help stop the squealing), the battery light stopped flickering right away... Any connection to that? And as I told the service center and mechanics...this all started once the weather started getting cold, both the squealing belts and gassy smell. The gassy smell has always happened once it got cold outside but didn't expect to be told that it was going to take so much to cover it.
I am supposed to pick the car back up from them tomorrow, since they were closed today for Thanksgiving. I guess I just want to be able to figure out if they are BS'ing me on alot of this stuff...or if they are really being straight up with me. Hard to know for sure, I guess.
As far as the fuel injectors rings, intake manifold gasket and valve cover gasket...the mechanic basically said it is a safety hazard now. The guy who I talked to is Russian and VERY hard to understand, but got the gist of it and wrote down what he said. The car itself is not hard to start at all and doesn't have a rough start...it does idle a little rough. especially when the ac/heat is turned on but just figured it needed new plugs, etc...which I planned on doing. There does not seem to be any gasoline smell coming from the engine oil.
When you say the manifold gasket does not break unless you pull the manifold...what exactly does that mean in layman terms?
RE: the squealing and gassy smell...so are you saying that the gassy smell might be from a lack of power needed for good combustion? Now that I think about it...the other day when I started it in the morning and had the squealing and gassy smell the battery light was flickering a little but when I turned the power off to the heat and the defogger (thinking it would help stop the squealing), the battery light stopped flickering right away... Any connection to that? And as I told the service center and mechanics...this all started once the weather started getting cold, both the squealing belts and gassy smell. The gassy smell has always happened once it got cold outside but didn't expect to be told that it was going to take so much to cover it.
I am supposed to pick the car back up from them tomorrow, since they were closed today for Thanksgiving. I guess I just want to be able to figure out if they are BS'ing me on alot of this stuff...or if they are really being straight up with me. Hard to know for sure, I guess.
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yodawill2000
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Re: (yodawill2000)
Squealing, slipping belts are a sign that belts are old, glazed and stretched. Simply tightening them to silence the squealing invites more troubles such as faster belt wear and stress on other components, unless you are certain that they are reasonable new, in good condition and simply loose. Cold damp weather will make things worse if the belts are old or were loose to begin with.
Running the defroster drains the battery more, making the alternator work harder/harder to turn and a slipping alternator belt makes the alternator less efficient, causing a flickering battery light, if your alternator is goodto begin with.
On cold mornings warm the engine/belts up a bit, before turning on all of the electrical accessories and the defroster.
Is the gasoline smell under the hood (fuel line or injector o-ring leaks), from the exhaust (running rich on start-up) or in the trunk area (filler and vent lines) and what if you turn the key just enough to start the fuel pump?
It's sounds like they want to pull the plenum in order to access fuel rail hose connections and the injector o-rings, and replace the plenum gasket.
Running the defroster drains the battery more, making the alternator work harder/harder to turn and a slipping alternator belt makes the alternator less efficient, causing a flickering battery light, if your alternator is goodto begin with.
On cold mornings warm the engine/belts up a bit, before turning on all of the electrical accessories and the defroster.
Is the gasoline smell under the hood (fuel line or injector o-ring leaks), from the exhaust (running rich on start-up) or in the trunk area (filler and vent lines) and what if you turn the key just enough to start the fuel pump?
It's sounds like they want to pull the plenum in order to access fuel rail hose connections and the injector o-rings, and replace the plenum gasket.
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coolyun_98
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- Car: 1993 J30 11,7000kM
Re: (GerryO)
Exaxtly! You really need to find out where the gassy smell comes from. My previous post assumes that the smell is from the tail pipe. But again, you really NEED to locate where the smell comes from to tackle the problem.GerryO wrote:Is the gasoline smell under the hood (fuel line or injector o-ring leaks), from the exhaust (running rich on start-up) or in the trunk area (filler and vent lines) and what if you turn the key just enough to start the fuel pump?
It's sounds like they want to pull the plenum in order to access fuel rail hose connections and the injector o-rings, and replace the plenum gasket.
So, basically, I DO NOT think there is any problem with the injector o-rings because your J had no symmton related to such probem. The best bet is to get a TUNE UP. You can do it yourself and save a lot of money!
About the battery light, I think the battery might need to be replaced. I had exactly the same problem (rough cold start) when my battery was dying.
About the gaskets, they will have to be replaced if the mechanic pulls the manifold (removes the manifold). I DO NOT see any safty hazard related to the gaskets! It is strickly a standard procedure to replace gaskets once they are removed.
Again, I really feel that the mechanic lacks knowledge about your J. Plus, I am sure he charges a LOT for the timing belt job. I would find a dealer to confirm the problem.
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maxnix
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1995 Infiniti Q45t
2000 Infiniti Q45
Re: Long post but several questions...timing belt, ... (jlong4)
Although they were truthful when they said the belt didn't require replacement yet, they should have advised you to consider it since the labor cost is zero. Asking the correct question in the correct way is why the consumer has to be an educated one. Still, I would look at thier advice with a jaundiced eye.jlong4 wrote:Thanks for the replies so far... Yeah, I should have had them go ahead and replace the timing belt when they replaced the water pump...both times!!! But I guess that is my fault, although I figured it still had a ways to go, since the original had already been replaced at 75,000 miles. It still bothers me that I asked both times they replaced the water pump if it needed to be done and they said no...not their fault though, should have just had them go ahead and do it.
I guess I just want to be able to figure out if they are BS'ing me on alot of this stuff...or if they are really being straight up with me. Hard to know for sure, I guess.
Re: Long post but several questions...timing belt, ... (maxnix)
Well...I picked my '95 J30t this morning from the service center. I talked some more with them after getting some much needed info from here. This is what they are telling me:
They are saying the gas smell is coming from the engine...fuel injector rings are leaking, which is why they are saying they would need to replace the intake manifold gasket and valve cover gasket, plus replace the plenum. I have looked for any gas leaking in the engine area and I don't see any, however, I do smell the gas in the engine area. Again, they are quoting around $1,050...does that sound reasonable?
As far as the timing belt is concerned, I talked with them about this and I "got their price" down to $600 for parts and labor. They are saying it needs 1 timing belt, 1 timing tensioner bearing, 2 timing belt idler bearings and 1 timing belt tensioner...is this all included in a typical timing belt kit? They said that it needs the timing tensioner bearing, timing belt idler bearings and timing belt tensioner replaced and not jsut the belt because these were probably not replaced when the original timing belt was replaced at 75,000 miles. I guess I assumed that when people say they need to have the timing belt replaced that it included all this other "stuff"...is that not right?
I appreciate any thoughts on all this...thanks!
They are saying the gas smell is coming from the engine...fuel injector rings are leaking, which is why they are saying they would need to replace the intake manifold gasket and valve cover gasket, plus replace the plenum. I have looked for any gas leaking in the engine area and I don't see any, however, I do smell the gas in the engine area. Again, they are quoting around $1,050...does that sound reasonable?
As far as the timing belt is concerned, I talked with them about this and I "got their price" down to $600 for parts and labor. They are saying it needs 1 timing belt, 1 timing tensioner bearing, 2 timing belt idler bearings and 1 timing belt tensioner...is this all included in a typical timing belt kit? They said that it needs the timing tensioner bearing, timing belt idler bearings and timing belt tensioner replaced and not jsut the belt because these were probably not replaced when the original timing belt was replaced at 75,000 miles. I guess I assumed that when people say they need to have the timing belt replaced that it included all this other "stuff"...is that not right?
I appreciate any thoughts on all this...thanks!
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yodawill2000
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- Joined: Thu Mar 24, 2005 4:10 pm
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Re: (yodawill2000)
Yoda....are they thin lines around 4 inches long or so, on the top, left hand side of the engine, with one of them attached to a filter/little drum like thing? If so, started the car cold and let it run for several minutes...no gas leaking...from anywhere that I could see. However, there is a definite gassy smell for a little bit but then it seems to go away.yodawill2000 wrote:Please check the two short fuel lines towards the back top of the engine on a cold start up.they are about 3 inches long and will seep fuel till warmed up if they are worn.One of them attaches to that thing that looks like a mini fuel filter. The actual name of it evades me.
As I indicated before...the gassy smell has always happened when it starts to get cold outside...never when the weather is warm. I remember the first winter I had the car, 2006/07 and I first noticed this it really freaked me out. But using the inside air circulation seems to help some. Not sure what to think now...
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yodawill2000
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Re: (yodawill2000)
There's also a short length of fuel hose beneath the front of the plenum, connecting the two fuel rails. I've read about it leaking.
Unless an injector has been replaced/damaged, it's hard to imagine any of the o-rings leaking. They do get brittle with age though, particularly the bottom ones.
Modified by GerryO at 10:54 PM 12/1/2008
Unless an injector has been replaced/damaged, it's hard to imagine any of the o-rings leaking. They do get brittle with age though, particularly the bottom ones.
Modified by GerryO at 10:54 PM 12/1/2008
Re: (GerryO)
Well...just got off the phone (several times actually) with the Infiniti dealer in town, Dreyer-Reinbold and they are thinking (without seeing the car first obviously) that the gassy smell might be with the fuel line assembly cracking and wearing out over time, so would get gas smell until things warm up and things expand a bit. They said they see alot of this with these cars...might that make sense? Quoting to replace 2 fuel line assembly lines, clamps, etc...parts & labor around $390.
They also quoted me $790 to take care of the timing belt, belt tensioner, idler bearings, etc...
I am thinking I should at least take it into them to have them look it over and see if they are right about the fuel line assembly...or if they find that it is the fuel injector rings, intake manifold gasket, and valve cover gasket like the first place said.
Man I hate dealing with this crap...
They also quoted me $790 to take care of the timing belt, belt tensioner, idler bearings, etc...
I am thinking I should at least take it into them to have them look it over and see if they are right about the fuel line assembly...or if they find that it is the fuel injector rings, intake manifold gasket, and valve cover gasket like the first place said.
Man I hate dealing with this crap...
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coolyun_98
- Posts: 313
- Joined: Fri Mar 09, 2007 8:29 pm
- Car: 1993 J30 11,7000kM
Re: (jlong4)
The dealer sounds right!
One thing I learn from fixing my own J is that "start from the most obvious first". The dealer definitely knows their stuff to come up with the dignosis. The price quoted by the dealer is absolutely resonable. Most importantly, you will be sure that they will use OEM infiniti parts. Honestly, I only trust myself or the dealer (and T3 auto) to fix my J. Anyone else is NOT allowed to touch my beautiful J unless they have some credentials.
I hate to say this but J is one beautifully made machine that can easily be damaged by unqualified mechanics.
One thing I learn from fixing my own J is that "start from the most obvious first". The dealer definitely knows their stuff to come up with the dignosis. The price quoted by the dealer is absolutely resonable. Most importantly, you will be sure that they will use OEM infiniti parts. Honestly, I only trust myself or the dealer (and T3 auto) to fix my J. Anyone else is NOT allowed to touch my beautiful J unless they have some credentials.
I hate to say this but J is one beautifully made machine that can easily be damaged by unqualified mechanics.
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coolyun_98
- Posts: 313
- Joined: Fri Mar 09, 2007 8:29 pm
- Car: 1993 J30 11,7000kM
Re: (jlong4)
The dealer sounds right!
One thing I learn from fixing my own J is that "start from the most obvious first". The dealer definitely knows their stuff to come up with the dignosis. The price quoted by the dealer is absolutely resonable. Most importantly, you will be sure that they will use OEM infiniti parts. Honestly, I only trust myself or the dealer (and T3 auto) to fix my J. Anyone else is NOT allowed to touch my beautiful J unless they have some credentials.
I hate to say this but J is one beautifully made machine that can easily be damaged by unqualified mechanics.
One thing I learn from fixing my own J is that "start from the most obvious first". The dealer definitely knows their stuff to come up with the dignosis. The price quoted by the dealer is absolutely resonable. Most importantly, you will be sure that they will use OEM infiniti parts. Honestly, I only trust myself or the dealer (and T3 auto) to fix my J. Anyone else is NOT allowed to touch my beautiful J unless they have some credentials.
I hate to say this but J is one beautifully made machine that can easily be damaged by unqualified mechanics.
-
coolyun_98
- Posts: 313
- Joined: Fri Mar 09, 2007 8:29 pm
- Car: 1993 J30 11,7000kM
Re: (jlong4)
The dealer sounds right!
One thing I learn from fixing my own J is that "start from the most obvious first". The dealer definitely knows their stuff to come up with the dignosis. The price quoted by the dealer is absolutely resonable. Most importantly, you will be sure that they will use OEM infiniti parts. Honestly, I only trust myself or the dealer (and T3 auto) to fix my J. Anyone else is NOT allowed to touch my beautiful J unless they have some credentials.
I hate to say this but J is one beautifully made machine that can easily be damaged by unqualified mechanics.
One thing I learn from fixing my own J is that "start from the most obvious first". The dealer definitely knows their stuff to come up with the dignosis. The price quoted by the dealer is absolutely resonable. Most importantly, you will be sure that they will use OEM infiniti parts. Honestly, I only trust myself or the dealer (and T3 auto) to fix my J. Anyone else is NOT allowed to touch my beautiful J unless they have some credentials.
I hate to say this but J is one beautifully made machine that can easily be damaged by unqualified mechanics.