Hi guys, i'm installing a remote entry on my 91 q45. I read somewhere that I believe that the door locks are reverse polarity. Is this true? Anybody have advice on the wiring for the lock? Also, once I hook up the remote entry, how do I bypass the alarm system so it won't think I unlocked the car from the inside (which sets off the alarm). If I can't bypass the alarm, how do I disable it completely? Thanks!
P.S. Sorry if I didnt search hard enough, but this site makes it kind of hard to search (gotta search twice for recent and old posts??? c'mon....)
Lock polarity and disabling alarm for remote entry on 91??
Re: Lock polarity and disabling alarm for remote entry on 91?? (cut_cutta)
Welcome to the club
On the 91 Q's I don't think the alarm will go off if it is unlocked from the inside; however it will go off if it thinks it was unlocked without a key. Correct me if I'm wrong.
I'm sure the "real" Q guys will chime in shortly Good Luck!
On the 91 Q's I don't think the alarm will go off if it is unlocked from the inside; however it will go off if it thinks it was unlocked without a key. Correct me if I'm wrong.
I'm sure the "real" Q guys will chime in shortly Good Luck!
You need to tie into the door locks in the driver kick panel "timer module". The lock wire is Pink/black and the unlock wire is Orange/blue. They require a negative pulse to activate. To disarm the the OEM alarm you must pulse a light blue wire behind the glove box with a negative pulse at the same time you pulse the unlock wire.
You may not need to worry about that wire anyway tho. Here is a test to determine if you will need to do this or not. Get inside the car and close the doors. Lock the doors with the door lock switch on the door and wait. If the OEM alarm is arming you should see the dash alarm light on. After about 1-2 minutes the OEM alarm will be armed if it is going to. At that point unlock the door with the button on the door and open the door. If the alarm doesn't go off you shouldn't need to wire the OEM disarm wire.
If you end up needing to wire the OEM disarm wire you will need to use a relay to switch (-) to that wire at the same time as the unlock wire. They need to be isolated so you can't just wire the unlock wire to both circuits. If you don't know what I'm talking about I can draw up a couple optional diagrams for you.
Here's a link to a guide for your car on my website.
http://c4caraudio.com/tech/90_93InfinitiQ45.htm
You may not need to worry about that wire anyway tho. Here is a test to determine if you will need to do this or not. Get inside the car and close the doors. Lock the doors with the door lock switch on the door and wait. If the OEM alarm is arming you should see the dash alarm light on. After about 1-2 minutes the OEM alarm will be armed if it is going to. At that point unlock the door with the button on the door and open the door. If the alarm doesn't go off you shouldn't need to wire the OEM disarm wire.
If you end up needing to wire the OEM disarm wire you will need to use a relay to switch (-) to that wire at the same time as the unlock wire. They need to be isolated so you can't just wire the unlock wire to both circuits. If you don't know what I'm talking about I can draw up a couple optional diagrams for you.
Here's a link to a guide for your car on my website.
http://c4caraudio.com/tech/90_93InfinitiQ45.htm
Re: (qsiguy)
Awesome! Thank you for the info. I am pretty sure that I don't need to disable the alarm at all. And since apparently the unlocking requires a negative pulse, I shouldnt need any relays or anything! Sweet! We'll see how it goes tomorrow.
Re: (cut_cutta)
Ok. Looking good so far. I have a couple questions... So the trunk pin switch (for popping the trunk) requires a negative pulse? Also, where is the ignition switch harness? I'm assuming it is by the ignition switch, but how does one remove the plastic to get to it?? Thank you for all your help so far...
Sorry for the slow response. I tapped into the trunk release as well as the fuel door release in the driver door at the buttons. I had an extra output on the alarm so I can pop my fuel door from the remote as well. The ignition switch harness is the bundle of larger wires that lead to the ignition switch. Remove the black panel above the brake/gas pedals then remove all the screws holding panel under the steering column. I think you have to pop off the small plate above it to get to a couple screws and also the panel around the radio. I think you can get to the ignition harness wires by just removing the panel above the gas/brake but it's much easier to complete the job if you remove the other panels as well, it's pretty tight in there if you don't.