^Ha, someone is already trying to change the subject!:thinker
Anyway, I can give you some good Hicas info!:)
First off, to switch it off, all you have to do is make the system malfunction. The easiest and most obvious way to do this is to pull the fuse. That's it! Once that big, red, ugly hicas light is lit up, you're Hicas is no longer working.
BUT, there will still be some play in the rear end during hard cornering. The only solution for this is to eliminate the hydrualic rear steering mechanism. Forget about swapping the entire rear-end, there are much easier solutions! One would be the Border kit that Exar shows. It seems like a good kit, but it's rather expensive for me. The other is a hicas lock kit. What that will do is replace the rack with a bar that the toe-arms will attach into. Much simpler and cheaper design. It also comes with an oil return line so you don't have to change p/s pumps (or remove it all together).
I bought my Hicas-lock bar from
http://www.japanesemotorsport.com.au Cost me around $130usd shipped IIRC.
As for the Hicas system in general, it's actually got some cool features. One is the 21mm rear swaybar! The other is the fact that you have no bushings on your rear toe-links, only ball joints...and you get toe adjustability in stock form (good if your car sit's low and you have toe problems and for performance alignments). The next is the steering rack. On a Hicas car, the steering rack is much quicker than on a normal 240. People often HUNT junkyards in search of a hicas-equipped car just for the steering rack b/c having quicker steering is so much better.
Anyway, If you have any more hicas questions, let me know.
