Post by
themadscientist »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/themadscientist-u2806.html
Sun Jun 24, 2007 12:38 pm
well I own both types of engines and for the money I would choose the CA18. They have the same potential power. A couple of things with the CA though.
Rod bolts, they are inadequate, smallest I have seen in a Nissan engine. You may love the scream of 8000 RPMs but the motor won't and you will likely pick up a nasty rod knock in a few months.
Age. The engine is over 18-years old. The chances it will be in prime shape are infinitesimal. Go into it expecting to completely overhaul the engine. 300hp is no problem on a tight healthy stock CA18 with adequate boost, fuel delivery and cooling but I wouldn't lean on a used one that hard.
Those ^%#@$% little hoses under the intake. I don't know about the SR20 but the RBs and CAs have dozens of little preformed hoses that will all be crusty and ready to burst. Save yourself headache and replace them all. I redesign the whole setup and eliminate as many of those little bastards as I can.
the turbo. It's too small and it's very old and surely abused, it's ready to die likely on the first test drive. Have a replacement ready before you even try to start the engine.
I don't want to scare you, I just want you to be ready when the ole pocket monster starts giving you ****. Don't yank your existing motor until you know you have the CA full ready to go back to work. Here are what I would call stages of preparation. Hey everyone else has "stage this" and "stage that" I can too!
Stage 1 (you cheesy half-stepping bastard)scrub the motor down, get it nice and clean, look for leaks and other trouble.Replace the valve cover gaskets, oil pan gasket, rear main sealReplace any hose that feels crunchy, does it make your *** pucker when you feel it, yeah change it. It's easy on the stand a real PITA in the car.check all the exhaust manifold and turbo nuts and bolts for tightness and look for any blown gaskets or broken stuff. scrutinize the turbo, is it blown?Check the timing belt and water pump, if they look suspect change them now.
Stage 2 (glad you are taking this seriously)same as before but just replace the timing belt and the water pump. You should anyway, I guarantee they are on their last legs. Replace the front main seal while you have the crank pulley off. Replace all the hoses and all the clamps, every stinkin one. pull the stock turbo and put on something better, rebuilt T25, a small GT Garrett, I would recommend an A/R .63 exhuast and something capable of at least 300hp on the compressor side, might as well make it worth your while.
Stage 3 (welcome to the frequent flyer lounge)This is really as minimal as I would go and I would hope you would be of the mind to start you CA18 adventure from at least this point.Complete overhaul, the old girl deserves to be pampered, exorcize all the emotional baggage and physical damage caused by the previous three owners one of which had Nissan service it, the next who never checked the oil and the third who thought they were a D1 driver.you should have the head and block tanked to clean them of sludge and rust deposits. The deck surfaces of both should be checked andand decked if they are warped. Have the crank checked for straightness at the minimum. The cylinders will at least need to be honed but if the scoring is excessive an oversize boring will be needed. Have the rods checked for cracks and straightness and at least replace the stock bolts with ARP ones. You will need new pistons, be sure to get ones that will work with the final bore size, talk to your machinist. Have the valves and seats checked for excessive wear. They may just need new seals but be prepared to have the guides replaced. Put it back together with all new bearings and gaskets and slap a basic metal head gasket on it just for a little extra insurance.
Beyond that it's basically steps up in go-fastiness of the parts or laborbalancing the crankhead chamber and portworkforged rods and pistonscrazy camsditching the factory ECU for a standalone etc.