I swapped out the 4 solenoids discussed above on the top of the valve body yesterday. Still having the same issue with not shifting into "D" when cold. I am picking up a code reader this afternoon to check and see if it is throwing any new codes that were not picked up before.

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Thu Jun 15, 2023 7:00 am

@Ryantzer is talking about the service manual (FSM), not the owner's manual (OM). The FSM is the document I linked for you earlier. The linked section is the for the transmission, but the other sections are available here too:
https://www.nicoclub.com/infiniti-service-manuals

I swapped out the 4 solenoids discussed above on the top of the valve body Sunday. Still having the same issue with the transmission not shifting into "D". I had a code scan performed yesterday. 4 codes were detected during the scan. Two of the codes were for engine knock sensors, which I don't believe are related to the transmission shifting. Two of them were P1492. Looking at the factory service manual for the "Engine Control System", P1492 indicates a problem with the Evaporative Emission Canister Purge control valve or solenoid valve, also known as the EVAP control valve or solenoid valves. Looking through the service manual and researching online, I don't believe this could be causing any type of shifting issues. Do you believe this would be un-related?

Yep, none of that will affect the tranny. The TCM will detect most of the electrical problems that can go wrong with the solenoids, so I'd say it's looking like you either have some bad seals or worn-out shuttles in the Valve Body, or a bad front pump causing low line pressure in general. Doing a line pressure test should tell you which. Se AT-61 in the FSM.

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Tue Jun 20, 2023 6:20 am

Yep, none of that will affect the tranny. The TCM will detect most of the electrical problems that can go wrong with the solenoids, so I'd say it's looking like you either have some bad seals or worn-out shuttles in the Valve Body, or a bad front pump causing low line pressure in general. Doing a line pressure test should tell you which. Se AT-61 in the FSM.

Yea, everything in the transmission looked really good except there were some very small rubber O-ring seals in the pan that looked ate up but, I have no idea where they came from. Nothing that I touched had any seals that small or seals that looked bad.

dborel wrote: ↑

Tue Jun 20, 2023 7:52 am

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Tue Jun 20, 2023 6:20 am

Yep, none of that will affect the tranny. The TCM will detect most of the electrical problems that can go wrong with the solenoids, so I'd say it's looking like you either have some bad seals or worn-out shuttles in the Valve Body, or a bad front pump causing low line pressure in general. Doing a line pressure test should tell you which. Se AT-61 in the FSM.

Yea, everything in the transmission looked really good except there were some very small rubber O-ring seals in the pan that looked ate up but, I have no idea where they came from. Nothing that I touched had any seals that small or seals that looked bad.

Do they make any type of gasket kit for the valve body? Also, would a dealership be ablet to perform the line pressure test and give a diagnosis for this type of problem?

If there's a rebuild kit for the VB, it will be aftermarket. Keep in mind that the problem may well be worn out valve shuttles and not seals. If that's the case then new springs, balls, and seals won't help.

Anybody with a 1000 psi pressure gauge can do a line pressure test. The specs are in the SDS pages at the end of the AT manual, and AT-61 describes which port to use and how to do it.

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Wed Jun 21, 2023 6:20 am

If there's a rebuild kit for the VB, it will be aftermarket. Keep in mind that the problem may well be worn out valve shuttles and not seals. If that's the case then new springs, balls, and seals won't help.

Anybody with a 1000 psi pressure gauge can do a line pressure test. The specs are in the SDS pages at the end of the AT manual, and AT-61 describes which port to use and how to do it.

Okay, I read the line test procedure, doesn't seem very difficult. My only concern is that there is a lot of possibilities for each scenario on AT-62, of course some of them I could eliminate right away depending on what the line test showed. One step at a time a guess.

Yep. First thing to eliminate is a weak pump. No A/T can work correctly with insufficient line pressure. If the pump checks out, then you can chase other stuff.

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Wed Jun 21, 2023 8:25 am

Yep. First thing to eliminate is a weak pump. No A/T can work correctly with insufficient line pressure. If the pump checks out, then you can chase other stuff.

Okay, I have a gauge that will read the pressures of the test. I will perform the line pressure test and report back. It may take me a week or two before I have time to do it. It looks like the pump fits around the front shaft according to the FSM. Do you have to pull the transmission to change the pump, or can it be done while the tranny is still installed?

They're always splined into the Torque Converter, the tranny has to come out.

Time for a rebuild.

fontana dan wrote: ↑

Tue Jun 27, 2023 3:39 pm

Time for a rebuild.

Yea, what’s strange is the car shifts fine into 1 or 2 on the shifter but, just doesn’t want to go into drive when it’s cold.

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Thu Jun 22, 2023 8:55 am

They're always splined into the Torque Converter, the tranny has to come out.

I see, thanks. How do you insert an image on the forum? I was going to post a picture of the seals I found in the trans pan.

Tag the "Full Editor & Preview" button below the editing window. Underneath the expanded editing window you'll see an "Attachments" tab. Tag that and press the "Add Files" button. You'll get a pop-up that allows you to select a pic. After it uploads, put the cursor in the editing window where you want the pic to appear, then press the "Place Inline" button. The only caveat is that your pics need to be under about a meg in size, so you'll probably need to downsize them with PhotoShop or some other bitmap editor. I find 1500 pixels on the longer axis makes for a legible pic that will upload without issues.

Here is a picture of one of the two seals I found in the transmission pan. The first picture is it sitting on the end of my little finger. The second picture is the same seal next to a standard size sharpie.

That doesn't look like a seal, it looks like an RTV ring from inside a gasket-hole.

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Wed Jun 28, 2023 7:03 am

That doesn't look like a seal, it looks like an RTV ring from inside a gasket-hole.

Good point. It has never had RTV on the transmission pan but, do you think it could be a ring of the old gasket that was just cut from being pinched between the pan and the bottom of the transmission?

Yep, that sounds plausible.

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Wed Jun 28, 2023 9:45 am

Yep, that sounds plausible.

Okay, thanks. I am still planning to do the line pressure test and post the results. I have to change the a/c compressor on it this weekend again but, i'll shoot to have those results by Monday.

Let us know what size threads are on the line pressure taps. You've seen this section from the workshop manual?

fontana dan wrote: ↑

Sat Jul 01, 2023 7:34 pm

Let us know what size threads are on the line pressure taps. You've seen this section from the workshop manual?

I performed the line pressure tests at "stall" and "idle" per the Factory Transmission Service Manual (results below). The port for the "D", "1", and "2" line pressure test are standard 1/4" pipe threads, so you will need a 1/4" male fitting to screw into this tap. If anyone is not familiar, a 1/4" standard male pipe OD measures approximately 5/16 of an inch since nominal pipe sizes are usually based on the true wetted inner diameter. I excluded the "R" test results after I realized the "R" tests are done from a different port than the "D", "1" and "2" port. I will perform the "R" tests at my next opportunity. I am seeing that the idle line pressure is low in all positions and the revolutions are low at stall in all positions (normal 2300 - 2500). Line pressure is normal at stall (given 1 psi for gauge and human error).

I attached a schematic that suggests diagnosis based on stall revolutions, and a chart that suggests a diagnosis based on both the line pressure at idle and stall. Looking at the schematic that gives a diagnosis based on the stall results below, it tends to point to the "torque converter one-way clutch". I am assuming the "R" test will show the same results but, doesn't seem like it matters for the diagnosis in this schematic. Looking at the chart that gives a diagnosis based on the line pressure at stall and idle, it could be a number of things including the transmission pump. I can exclude the plugged strainer on this list since I changed it recently. Would any of these diagnoses coincide with the symptom of the car not shifting into "D" until the car is warmed up but, will shift into "1" and "2" and can be driven beforehand.

Stall Test:

D - 1800 rpm, 150 psig

1 - 1800 rpm, 150 psig

2 -1800 rpm, 150 psig


Idle:

D - 600 rpm, 35 psig

1 - 600 rpm, 35 psig

2 - 600 rpm, 35 psig

I doubt it's the Torque Converter. Broken sprags will generally have the opposite symptoms from what you're seeing, normalish pressure at idle but very low pressure at stall. You're way low at idle and still low at stall, just not as much. It's possible the pressure regulation is off or you have an internal leak somewhere, but since this problem crept up on you gradually, Occam's Razor says you probably just have a worn out pump.

Thanks for your input. Is the "torque converter one-way clutch" just the torque converter as its normally referred to?

No, the sprag clutch is part of the TC, not the whole thing. It's a 1-way clutch that allows the hydraulic blades to produce motive force in one direction and freewheel in the other, allowing the TC to slip freely and let the engine decelerate when you drop the throttle. However, it's part of the TC assembly, so the net result is a bad converter whether the culprit is the sprag or something else.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z5G2zQ_3xTc

Ah, I see. Is there any way to tell for sure which one is causing the issue?

Like I said, a bad sprag will generally leave you normalish at idle but way low at stall. That isn't what you're seeing.

Thanks for the pressure test info.
Test pressures in Reverse to determine if the pump is weak or there is a pressure leak in the forward circuit. Another user reported torn lip seals in forward clutch with a similar condition.
My car has this problem but it doesn't want to move in 1 2 or D when it is cold. Slow 1-2 shift gets quicker the longer you drive it.

Okay, thanks Vstar and fontana. I will post the reverse test results soon as I record them.

fontana dan wrote: ↑

Mon Jul 03, 2023 5:15 pm

Thanks for the pressure test info.
Test pressures in Reverse to determine if the pump is weak or there is a pressure leak in the forward circuit. Another user reported torn lip seals in forward clutch with a similar condition.
My car has this problem but it doesn't want to move in 1 2 or D when it is cold. Slow 1-2 shift gets quicker the longer you drive it.

Did the shifting problem progress slowly over time?

dborel wrote: ↑

Tue Jul 04, 2023 9:54 am

fontana dan wrote: ↑

Mon Jul 03, 2023 5:15 pm

Thanks for the pressure test info.
Test pressures in Reverse to determine if the pump is weak or there is a pressure leak in the forward circuit. Another user reported torn lip seals in forward clutch with a similar condition.
My car has this problem but it doesn't want to move in 1 2 or D when it is cold. Slow 1-2 shift gets quicker the longer you drive it.

Did the shifting problem progress slowly over time?

I bought the car in this condition. It was shifting pretty bad the first time I test drove the car. However it improved after I drove it for a few days, changed the fluid and filter. Has been about the same ever since.