I swapped out the 4 solenoids discussed above on the top of the valve body Sunday. Still having the same issue with the transmission not shifting into "D". I had a code scan performed yesterday. 4 codes were detected during the scan. Two of the codes were for engine knock sensors, which I don't believe are related to the transmission shifting. Two of them were P1492. Looking at the factory service manual for the "Engine Control System", P1492 indicates a problem with the Evaporative Emission Canister Purge control valve or solenoid valve, also known as the EVAP control valve or solenoid valves. Looking through the service manual and researching online, I don't believe this could be causing any type of shifting issues. Do you believe this would be un-related?VStar650CL wrote: ↑Thu Jun 15, 2023 7:00 am@Ryantzer is talking about the service manual (FSM), not the owner's manual (OM). The FSM is the document I linked for you earlier. The linked section is the for the transmission, but the other sections are available here too:
https://www.nicoclub.com/infiniti-service-manuals
Yea, everything in the transmission looked really good except there were some very small rubber O-ring seals in the pan that looked ate up but, I have no idea where they came from. Nothing that I touched had any seals that small or seals that looked bad.VStar650CL wrote: ↑Tue Jun 20, 2023 6:20 amYep, none of that will affect the tranny. The TCM will detect most of the electrical problems that can go wrong with the solenoids, so I'd say it's looking like you either have some bad seals or worn-out shuttles in the Valve Body, or a bad front pump causing low line pressure in general. Doing a line pressure test should tell you which. Se AT-61 in the FSM.
Do they make any type of gasket kit for the valve body? Also, would a dealership be ablet to perform the line pressure test and give a diagnosis for this type of problem?dborel wrote: ↑Tue Jun 20, 2023 7:52 amYea, everything in the transmission looked really good except there were some very small rubber O-ring seals in the pan that looked ate up but, I have no idea where they came from. Nothing that I touched had any seals that small or seals that looked bad.VStar650CL wrote: ↑Tue Jun 20, 2023 6:20 amYep, none of that will affect the tranny. The TCM will detect most of the electrical problems that can go wrong with the solenoids, so I'd say it's looking like you either have some bad seals or worn-out shuttles in the Valve Body, or a bad front pump causing low line pressure in general. Doing a line pressure test should tell you which. Se AT-61 in the FSM.
Okay, I read the line test procedure, doesn't seem very difficult. My only concern is that there is a lot of possibilities for each scenario on AT-62, of course some of them I could eliminate right away depending on what the line test showed. One step at a time a guess.VStar650CL wrote: ↑Wed Jun 21, 2023 6:20 amIf there's a rebuild kit for the VB, it will be aftermarket. Keep in mind that the problem may well be worn out valve shuttles and not seals. If that's the case then new springs, balls, and seals won't help.
Anybody with a 1000 psi pressure gauge can do a line pressure test. The specs are in the SDS pages at the end of the AT manual, and AT-61 describes which port to use and how to do it.
Okay, I have a gauge that will read the pressures of the test. I will perform the line pressure test and report back. It may take me a week or two before I have time to do it. It looks like the pump fits around the front shaft according to the FSM. Do you have to pull the transmission to change the pump, or can it be done while the tranny is still installed?VStar650CL wrote: ↑Wed Jun 21, 2023 8:25 amYep. First thing to eliminate is a weak pump. No A/T can work correctly with insufficient line pressure. If the pump checks out, then you can chase other stuff.
Yea, what’s strange is the car shifts fine into 1 or 2 on the shifter but, just doesn’t want to go into drive when it’s cold.
I see, thanks. How do you insert an image on the forum? I was going to post a picture of the seals I found in the trans pan.VStar650CL wrote: ↑Thu Jun 22, 2023 8:55 amThey're always splined into the Torque Converter, the tranny has to come out.
Good point. It has never had RTV on the transmission pan but, do you think it could be a ring of the old gasket that was just cut from being pinched between the pan and the bottom of the transmission?VStar650CL wrote: ↑Wed Jun 28, 2023 7:03 amThat doesn't look like a seal, it looks like an RTV ring from inside a gasket-hole.
Okay, thanks. I am still planning to do the line pressure test and post the results. I have to change the a/c compressor on it this weekend again but, i'll shoot to have those results by Monday.
I performed the line pressure tests at "stall" and "idle" per the Factory Transmission Service Manual (results below). The port for the "D", "1", and "2" line pressure test are standard 1/4" pipe threads, so you will need a 1/4" male fitting to screw into this tap. If anyone is not familiar, a 1/4" standard male pipe OD measures approximately 5/16 of an inch since nominal pipe sizes are usually based on the true wetted inner diameter. I excluded the "R" test results after I realized the "R" tests are done from a different port than the "D", "1" and "2" port. I will perform the "R" tests at my next opportunity. I am seeing that the idle line pressure is low in all positions and the revolutions are low at stall in all positions (normal 2300 - 2500). Line pressure is normal at stall (given 1 psi for gauge and human error).fontana dan wrote: ↑Sat Jul 01, 2023 7:34 pmLet us know what size threads are on the line pressure taps. You've seen this section from the workshop manual?
Did the shifting problem progress slowly over time?fontana dan wrote: ↑Mon Jul 03, 2023 5:15 pmThanks for the pressure test info.
Test pressures in Reverse to determine if the pump is weak or there is a pressure leak in the forward circuit. Another user reported torn lip seals in forward clutch with a similar condition.
My car has this problem but it doesn't want to move in 1 2 or D when it is cold. Slow 1-2 shift gets quicker the longer you drive it.
I bought the car in this condition. It was shifting pretty bad the first time I test drove the car. However it improved after I drove it for a few days, changed the fluid and filter. Has been about the same ever since.dborel wrote: ↑Tue Jul 04, 2023 9:54 amDid the shifting problem progress slowly over time?fontana dan wrote: ↑Mon Jul 03, 2023 5:15 pmThanks for the pressure test info.
Test pressures in Reverse to determine if the pump is weak or there is a pressure leak in the forward circuit. Another user reported torn lip seals in forward clutch with a similar condition.
My car has this problem but it doesn't want to move in 1 2 or D when it is cold. Slow 1-2 shift gets quicker the longer you drive it.