lightweight wheels

Forum for Nissan wheel fitment, tire selection, suspension setup and brake discussions.
MadSideways
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Quote »Offset changes with width changes to preserve intended wheel geomety like Exar said.

Even better:http://www.usacomp.com/Offset.htm[/quote]The link you have provided further proves what I have been saying. The only reason you change the offset is to preserve backspacing. However, If you want to stay with the intended wheel geometry you have to stay with the oem offset.


MadSideways
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Quote »10mm under what it should be, maybe; but that's where you're confused (with what the offsets should be).[/quote]I'm having a hard time interpreting what you're trying to say here.

If you go with a +30mm offset instead of a +40mm offset, it pushes the wheel out 10mm. Thereby causing the centerpatch of the tire to be 10mm towards the inside of the wheel than intended.

MadSideways
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The picture sucks, (10 minutes in photoshop), but maybe this will help explain what i mean:

The red arrow is the intended oem geomery. The blue line is the centerline of the wheel. And the gradiant area is the effective tirepatch used in conjunction with the oem geometry.

MadSideways
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Another problem with going wider, which most people don't consider is:

A.) Under dry conditions and under nominal HP the car will handle better.B.) Add some rain / snow / too much HP, and the tires will handle worse than stock...

This is due the fact that your tire patch is stretched out horizontally, which is caused by the weight of your vehicle remaining static, (unchanged). This can be corrected with extra downforce, but then you'd have to be going almost 100mph to acheive that with an APR spoiler:



Formula-1 cars can get away with humongoid tires because they have 1.5-2g's of downforce once they're moving. As a matter of fact, you could flip the track upside down, (once they're moving at decent speeds), and formula-1 cars could continue to race...

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Exar-Kun
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I actually brought that up a while ago(the tire contact patch thing).....agood points, but read those articles like dori said man...-chet

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Dori Dori
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:Werd

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creophus
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You guys are dropping lots of info on this post...and to think it started out with someone asking about lightweight wheels.

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ITA240SX
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It sounds like the argument here is one of semantics - you guys appear to define "suspension geometry" differently. MadSideways you're absolutely correct in that if you keep the offset the same as the wheel width increases, the centerline of the tire will stay the same. However, this is not always desireable. The following is from Tirerack's website, and I think explains it best:

"If the offset of the wheel is not correct for the car, the handling can be adversely affected. When the width of the wheel changes, the offset also changes numerically. If the offset were to stay the same while you added width, the additional width would be split evenly between the inside and outside. For most cars, this won't work correctly. We have test fitted thousands of different vehicles for proper fitment. Our extensive database allows our sales staff to offer you the perfect fit for your vehicle."

Have funEarl

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SR180SX
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Volk GramLight, pretty light weight, good quality and not so expensive

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creophus
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Uh...not so expensive? Compared to what??! Volk GramLights are great (at least I hear) but they are very expensive IMO.

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Dori Dori
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No they're not. Next to the rest of the Ray's lineup, they are the least expensive IIRC. A lot of it has to do with the fact that they are cast (the less expensive ones that is, there are two versions, again IIRC, cast and forged).

It doesn't matter anyway since he has to get 16x6.5" and those wheels don't even come in that size.

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creophus
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Perhaps I have gotten them confused with the forged ones. Or perhaps it's that I'm a cheapskate...maybe a little bit of both.

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RobDET
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I had a set of rotas on my wheel hoppin' CRX for well over a year when my buddy bought the car. They have been fine. Another frined has them as well and they have been trouble free. He has slipstreams[15] and i had circuit 8's[16]

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JD-S14
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So 16x7 with 40 offset wont work on our cars?

I wanted to get some Rota Slipstreams 16x7 40 offset, 225/50/16 tires.

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JD-S14
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*tap tap tap*

umm, hello? Is this thing on?

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Exar-Kun
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actually, they will work, but would scrub coilovers, and probably wont clear Z brakes.

-chet

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Ceptos
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i guess this is kinda bringing up an old argument, but the rota wheels that fell apart, would them being a multi piece wheel, conected with only welds, have something to do with it? i was under the impression that soley welding a 2 or 3 piece wheel together hurts its strength, and they are not supposed to be as round as a single piece wheel, or multi piece wheel held together with bolts? so wouldnt damage from harsh lateral forces be expected?

humpy012
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i say rota, all the wheels they make are light, good-looking, and inexpensive

YomnyM
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Im interested in getting some rota slipstreams, can some one tell me what bolt pattern and offset i will need for the 16 inch rims. I will greatly appreciate a simple and honest answer, thank you very much in advance.

Onizuka
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MadSideways wrote:Another problem with going wider, which most people don't consider is:

A.) Under dry conditions and under nominal HP the car will handle better.B.) Add some rain / snow / too much HP, and the tires will handle worse than stock...


yes, because we all buy new wheels and sticky rubber to go driving in the snow and rain :rolleyes

YomnyM, for future refrence, If you can't figure out what bolt parttern and offset you need, i suggest you read the dozens of stickies readily availible at the top of this forum. To awnser your question, i need to know what car you have first.

YomnyM
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the car is a 93 nissan 240. i think it has the 15" rims, the one wiht 7 spokes.

bcuz
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hmmmmmm

I never realized that suspension and all is so very complicated, are you guys saying that having wider tires is bad? I dont understand... well I kinda do, but Im upset cuz I dont want 6.5 inch wheels.. :\

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Grant@tirerack
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That's not the case in all setups but you can go overboard with tire size. Wider, lower profile tires +sticky compounds+wider rims = more work for your suspension. You are going to change the handling more by upgrading your tires/wheel setup than most suspension mods. Just ask any auto cross or track driver and they will tell you the same. The tire construction, compound, and the air pressures you run can totally change the handling of the car.

Nismo_Freak
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I run 16x7 +40 offset Rota's ... they clear my Teins just barely.

bcuz
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really...

Nismo_Freak
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bcuz wrote:really...


Nope, thought I'd just make that up for ya to play with your head.

(Yes, really :) )

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creophus
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Nismo_Freak...please tell us more about your Rotas. What model are they and where did you get them...cost, etc.

Dori posted earlier about how much they suck so I'd like to hear from you what your experience with them have been.

bcuz
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I think Im gonna have to go with rotas.. if they fix your car and replace the messed up rim.. I dont see what the big deal is.. I mean.. I know this is bad but still, they take care of people when things go wrong.

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MOTOP
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I bought Konig Driver from Tires.com for 120$ a pop.They are 16x7 /Offset +40 (i think stock 95 SE are 16/6.5 offset +40).

http://www.konigwheels.com/cat...SIVES

Thhey are pretty lightweight and here's how they look on 95 model.

http://www.neteasier.com/240.jpg


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