Light Weight pulleys for an SR20DET

For the RWD SR20DET cars! Sponsored by Wiring Specialties.
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dan222000
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Car: 1996 Nissan 240SX w/SR20DET

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Ok guys I need some advise on pulleys. I would like to upgrade my O.E.M pulleys with light weight racing pulleys and I have noticed that there are a few manufactures out there. I wanted to know what you guys recommened and should I replace the crack pulley at all? I have a ACT ligthen flywheel and ACT 4 puck racing clutch. 1. Greddy pulley set $ 250.00 (MyNismo.com)2. Megan pully set $ 99.00 (phase 2)3. Circut sports pully set $ 75.00 (phase 2)

Are there any difference or problems with these different manufactures?

Thanks,Dan


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mRodiek
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I didnt think so, that is why I bought the megans

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JRPS13
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megans are the only ones that come with 1 yr warranty. and their cheap! buy two sets for the price of one greddy, have a spare just in case! after all they are megans

impact240sx
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From what i've seen they really aren't worth it, my friend had them (greddy) and they didn't really seem to change anything, and i also borrowed is powersteering pump with one on and It didn't feel to me that it changed anything.

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heartofaskyline
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ive got greddy's and all they do is look cool

impact240sx
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Thats how I felt bought them, If your lookin for power gain save the extra hundred from 250, so thats 350 and get bc stage 2 cams, I love them, but i'll admit they don't look as cool as pulleys lol

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assassin7420
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1995 Nissan 240sx (daily)
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impact240sx wrote:Thats how I felt bought them, If your lookin for power gain save the extra hundred from 250, so thats 350 and get bc stage 2 cams, I love them, but i'll admit they don't look as cool as pulleys lol
BC stage 2 arnt just drop in's so to get the car to run right you have to spend even more money.

I have the Greddy's on my SR, More bling then anything. Don't expect to car to feel faster because of them. However, I 100% refuse to have anything made by Megan racing on my car.

impact240sx
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Umh, I just dropped my cams in and it runs mint and I felt a huge difference. You can get camgears and adjust but I didn't and It pulls harder then ever, I have a stock turbo and It boosts stupid fast with those cams. I'm still waiting to get dyno numbers though.

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dan222000
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Car: 1996 Nissan 240SX w/SR20DET

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Does anyone recommend changing the crank pulley?

MastaYu
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wow huge sig

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Rex
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MastaYu wrote:wow huge sig
Yeah. Fixed.

Feel free to shot a Mod an email when you see things like that in the future.

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dc1984
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Car: 93 240sx/98 180sx blacktop sr20det :RIP/ 93 jeep grand cherokee

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what do u have against megan? i dont realy have any real experience with them but i am looking into getting ther exahaust manifold. its cheap and i see a lot of them out there and realy havent heard any complaints.

Nacho_240
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Car: 1991 240sx LE

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dc1984 wrote:what do u have against megan? i dont realy have any real experience with them but i am looking into getting ther exahaust manifold. its cheap and i see a lot of them out there and realy havent heard any complaints.
There are many complaints. They tend to crack. But in megan's defense, this is a problem with virtually all ss tubular manifolds.

And to the OP, here's an even cheaper set:

http://zilvia.net/f/advertiser....html

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dc1984
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i kind of agree with the all tubular manifold cracking ordeal, especially when it comes down to people putting extra stress on it by not mounting there exhaust properly. a little of that over time can make any tubular manifold crack. all that weight bouncing around contantly while ur driving down the road. ive heard that another good preventative measure is to get some small bracers welded on to the manifold.

as for the pulleys, i dont think there is much of a difference. there shouldnt be any difference in the diameter of the pulleys(atleast i wouldnt think) so it all boils down to the weight. now, shedding a pound or two on the pullies probably wont show much improvement, but when u add that in conjuntion with a lighter flyweel, and maybe a lighter 1 piece driveshaft, all the weight ur removing from what the motor has to spin starts to add up and could probably help out noticably. atleast that my opinion on the matter

Nacho_240
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dc1984 wrote:i kind of agree with the all tubular manifold cracking ordeal, especially when it comes down to people putting extra stress on it by not mounting there exhaust properly. a little of that over time can make any tubular manifold crack. all that weight bouncing around contantly while ur driving down the road. ive heard that another good preventative measure is to get some small bracers welded on to the manifold.

as for the pulleys, i dont think there is much of a difference. there shouldnt be any difference in the diameter of the pulleys(atleast i wouldnt think) so it all boils down to the weight. now, shedding a pound or two on the pullies probably wont show much improvement, but when u add that in conjuntion with a lighter flyweel, and maybe a lighter 1 piece driveshaft, all the weight ur removing from what the motor has to spin starts to add up and could probably help out noticably. atleast that my opinion on the matter
You should invest in some stiff exhaust hangers. frsport sells the cs set (3 hangers) for $24 I believe. I have them and I love them!

Now that you mentioned the lightened flywheel and driveshaft, I'm reminded of something I heard here on NICO. I read that have all those lightened parts can result in idle issues. Does anyone have any experience with this?


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JRPS13
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Nacho_240 wrote:
You should invest in some stiff exhaust hangers. frsport sells the cs set (3 hangers) for $24 I believe. I have them and I love them!

Now that you mentioned the lightened flywheel and driveshaft, I'm reminded of something I heard here on NICO. I read that have all those lightened parts can result in idle issues. Does anyone have any experience with this?
although this is off topic from the OP, but yes a lightened flywheel will result in idle issues. have you ever noticed your rpms drop when you come to a fast stop?? well it happens to a lot of sr's and even ka's. the amount your lightening the flywheel will result in an increase in the speed you can get your rpms up, which is a direct result of how fast they drop. which could cause your car to stall out if your not heel toe downshifting. which is the biggest problem ive seen with lightened flywheels. ive seen some poeple advance their timing slightly to improve this, but it could also come down to fine adjustments on your tps.

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dc1984
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ive also read that if u lighten ur flywheel too much that it starts to hurt because u loose some inertia that the weight of it gives while it is spinning or something like that. i dont fully understand it, but my understanding is that it can help in acceleration if u lighten it, just not to go too light.

as for helping to save ur manifold, ive also heard that getting a downpipe with a flex sections built in or using a flex piece where ur cat would normally go will also help take some strain off the exhaust manifold. im still currently running the stock cast manifold so i got no real experience with manifolds cracking and whatnot, just input from other people.

Nacho_240
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BUMP

For those of you who already run aluminum pulleys:Where does that blue washer in the pic below go? I picked up a set but it didn't come with instructions Also, feel free to share any helpful installation advice.

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positron1
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That blue washer goes on the alternator, then the alternator pulley and then the alternator pulley nut. It keeps the pulley from bottoming out on the alternator I was told.

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positron1
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Just make sure you torque that alternator pulley down to 101ft.lbs or it will squeal like a stuck pig! Ask me how I know...go ahead and ask me how I know FTL!

Nacho_240
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positron_ wrote:Just make sure you torque that alternator pulley down to 101ft.lbs or it will squeal like a stuck pig! Ask me how I know...go ahead and ask me how I know FTL!
That's what i figured. My alternator belt was bumping like crazy. And the OEM alternator pulley doesn't have a spacer like that right?

Squealing pig eh? We'll see...

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playero_loko
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i dunno, i dont think its bad to have them all... after all whats the whats bad about having the crank pulley as well?

here's my set up!

T-rev
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I think in order to use the crank pulley you have to ditch your harmonic balancer. Thats not something I would want to do.

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playero_loko
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T-rev wrote:I think in order to use the crank pulley you have to ditch your harmonic balancer. Thats not something I would want to do.
are you reffering to the stock crank pulley as the harmonic balancer ??? then yes, i dont see any difference between taking the stock crank pulley for one from unorthodox racing or having the AIT one other than the price jump...

Yulaw
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I have the greddy pulleys. I only bought them because I got them brand new in box for 100 bucks and it matched my other greddy parts. I can't justify spending an extra 150 bucks for the name though.

Seishuku
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playero_loko wrote:
are you reffering to the stock crank pulley as the harmonic balancer ??? then yes, i dont see any difference between taking the stock crank pulley for one from unorthodox racing or having the AIT one other than the price jump...
You will when you destroy your mains from the crank vibrating it's self to death.

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jr_ss
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Get this set or go home...

Baller status http://www.rhdjapan.com/jdm-lo...52349

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playero_loko
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Seishuku wrote:You will when you destroy your mains from the crank vibrating it's self to death.
i will look into that... havent heard of this acutally happening, however i know that unorthodox racing wouldnt make one if it was to do such. Does anybody have anymore info on that...
jr_ss wrote:Get this set or go home...

Baller status http://www.rhdjapan.com/jdm-lo...52349
yeah balla status b/c: Now Only : USD 1427.69 Shipped to United States whoever has the mone to spend that much on a pulley kit is ballin' big freaggin time...

Seishuku
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playero_loko
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appreciate the info bro, but i wasnt the one installing in my ride... im currently deployed and not sure if you can use the rubber with the UR crannk pulley... anyone else knows???


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