Lifter tick

[Sdavne]

Is a lifter tick a bad thing or harmful for you car, and what are someways to fix or minimize this issue. mine does it sometimes when the oil i over 2k miles on it and after i drive it on the turnpike on a hot day is when it happens most, i just want to make sure its not bad for my car or anyway i can help it, maybe as simple as different viscosity oil i use full syn now.

[na.tt.zx]

My engine startef doin it about a week ago right after my oil change (i think u read my post) but since then ive put in a bottle of lucas oil stabalizer on top of the 3.75 quarts of 10w40 its pretty spendu but it went away in minutes and i personally havent had problems from lifter ticks there just annoying my buddies saab is going on 7k miles with a bad tick he decided to drive it till it blows but it refuses to. Hope this helps!

[Sdavne]

yeah any help from other people helps but from what i have read, lifter tics no harm the motor but i just wanted to maKe sure if anyone know about them and if there i cando to prevent this from happning. thanks alot

[nick1809]

thicker oil, lucas, new lifters, lol. theres an array of stuff you can do, and most of it is easy and cheap. try it all. cant hurt.

[sydwyZ32]

make sure its not the beginings of a rod knock... my lifter tick wasn't getting any worse until I took it to the track and bam went the motor... Use a thicker oil and change the lifters... oh yeah and^^^what he said.

[Chattzx]

No to Lucas, yes to Z1 extreme clean engine flush. And if not that add 1/2 a quart of ATF, drive 200 miles and do an oil change.

[300ZXttZMAN]

LOOK in this thread down the page..
dual-intake-filter-baffle-fab-resolves- ... 32611.html

their is a Lifter write up some where in there haha.. But the pics arent working

[GerryO]

Castrol 20/50 synthetic blend.

[Sdavne]

thicker oil, lucas, new lifters, lol. theres an array of stuff you can do, and most of it is easy and cheap. try it all. cant hurt.

changing out lifters are not that easy.. very time consuming unless there is a better way...? And I was thinking on using a little thicker oil like 10 30 I already use full synthetic, when I changed my oil with the thicker oil it went away do the most part, I have not heard it since, but is some think like lucis or somthing in that nature ok for my car and good for my car like 100 miles before an oil change, or is it harmful or a waist of money?

[na.tt.zx]

Go to an auto parts store like o,rieleys and ask them about products like lucas they usualy have demontrations of them working sometimes they can shed more light about your problems.

[marty1mc]

There is always a trade-off with going thicker, especially in cold weather. 20W50 in the winter is a bad idea. The thicker the oil, the longer it takes to circulate to critical components like main bearings. You may fix your lifter tick (which isn't a big problem) and end up with a much larger issue.

[Sdavne]

I never wanted to go that thick I changed to 10 30 and it stopped and that not even that big of a difference from what I used before

[marty1mc]

10w30 is what is recommended in your owners manual.

[Sdavne]

O was using 5 cause it was warmer out but that may be the problem than

[McShanks]

Google "Bob is the oil guy." You should NOT be putting in 10W40 in this car, even in a hot Texan summer! xxW50 is RIGHT OUT of the question!!! You will wear out your engine so much faster! Your oil pressure when warmed up should be proportional to the RPM, that is at 6,000 RPM, your oil pressure should be around 60 psi, and at 1,000 RPM, about 10 psi. This ensures proper oil FLOW over and through the parts. This car should use a xxW30 weight oil. The second number is related to the viscosity at operating temp. The firs number, as the 10 in 10W30 is the viscosity at US Standard Pressure and Temperature. The lower the first number, the better. In 1990, 5W30 was not readily available, and 0W30 was unheard of. If you go synthetic, put in 0W30. This ensures oil is not too thick at startup, ensuring more oil gets to the lubed parts faster. MOST engine wear occurs at startup and warmup of the engine, before the oil has heated and "thinned" enough to provide the proper lubrication layer.

Personally, I plan on using AutoRX additive once I get all the other little issues sorted out. There are many options, and many opinions, and many various results out there for all the products you can find. Pick one and go with it, follow the directions, and make sure you put in GOOD oil once you are done with your treatment. DO NOT put additives in Synthetic oils. I currently use 5W30 Valvoline, and once I do my oil treatment, plan an switching to 0W30 Synthetic, not sure of the brand, yet.

Read some of the stuff on bobistheoilguy.com. It is very enlightening, and makes alot of sense once you are given the knowledge. Ultimately, each engine and oil pump is a little different from the next one, so it is best to drop down a weight at a time until you are getting the proper proportion of oil pressure to RPM. If you have 10W30 in your car, putting in 5W30 or 0W30 is fine, as this will not change the operating conditions with a warm engine AT ALL compared to 10-, 15-, or 20-W30 oil. But the oil viscosity will be much closure at COLD temperatures to the proper viscosity of WARM temperatures. If you have xxW40, and your oil pressure is higher than what it should be, drop it down to xxW30.

Due to the increasing quality and performance of oil in the last 10-20 years, modern cars are calling for 5W30 or even 0W30 oils, and some car companies have even revised their manuals for older cars recommending 5W30 (or 5W40 or whatever second number weight required) oil instead of the 10W30 or 15W30 oils. Check it out for yourself, and test this at your next OCI.

[GerryO]

Adding about half a quart of 20/50 synthetic blend to my pan full of used 10-30W quickly quieted a lifter leak that had slowly developed and grown steadily worse when my car sat parked for a couple of months due to a water pump leak.

Full synthetic and synthetic blend oils are more lubricious. Spread a bit between two fingers, rub them together and you can feel the difference. Figured the industry shift to lower viscostiy oils is driven most by the quest for improved mpg and easier severe cold winter starts, which in many parts of CA aren't a big issue.

http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html

In hindsight it the synthetic component was probably most responsible for quieting the lifter tick, and with 180K miles on the engine and after a new set of front oil seals, fully converting to 20/50 synthetic blend didn't seem like such a bad idea.