lets talk clutches...

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turbo2nr
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Joined: Wed Sep 28, 2005 3:53 pm
Car: 97 240sx (kouki)

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ok i have a oem pressure plate on a 6 puck sprung ceramic clutch.

only on 5psi only 600m on the clutch.

and it slips at hi rpms and hard shifts, when i say slip i mean i get into gear tand the rpms dont drop just stays up high if i let off the gas and cluth back in it will grab.

im thinking im in need of a better pressure plate, and im only on 5psi b/c of a bad wastegate which will be fixed soon..

so my question is how much lb/in is factor pressure plate?and what presssure plate should i look into?

or is it worth it just to get a whole new clutch setup.

thanks


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GTR PrYdE
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Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX, 2003 Evolution VIII

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I'd put my money on the stock pressure plate being weak. How's the pedal feel? soft, tough?

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turbo2nr
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Car: 97 240sx (kouki)

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pedal is soft and about .75" from full release.. really high

nissanfanatic
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Car: 1992 Nissan 240sx SE
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The ACT pressure plates are a solid, proven choice.

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C-Kwik
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Car: 2013 Chevy Volt, 1991 Honda CRX DX

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It doesn't sound like a pressure plate problem to me. I assume it was new, so it should have the OE clamping force, but with a disc of higher coefficient of friction (Which would net a higher threshold for holding torque).

I'd suspect a clutch adjustment issue first.

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turbo2nr
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Joined: Wed Sep 28, 2005 3:53 pm
Car: 97 240sx (kouki)

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hmm so if the adjustment is off it can cause the revs to shoot up even when in gear at a high rpm?

also whats the clamping load for a stock pressure plate?

i know the act and other companys are +1650lb/in

thanks

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eazye2000
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C-Kwik wrote: It doesn't sound likea pressure plate problem to me......

I'd suspect a clutch adjustment issue first.


I think it's an adjustment issue as well. Adjust the little bar behind your clutch pedal that goes to the master. There are a few threads on here with good pictures on what you are going after. I think It's a 12mm if it's a stock clutch master, 13mm if it's aftermarket.

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turbo2nr
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Joined: Wed Sep 28, 2005 3:53 pm
Car: 97 240sx (kouki)

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update:

i was pushing the car last night, 80-90% throttle 3-4-5th gear pulls, 5psi.. (gay)

no slipage it held fine engaged fine ect, and i was pushing the car for a good couple of miles.

only problem to report was wierd noise on decel when in gear, sounds likes its comming from front of transmission, where clutch is.

sound is like a vibrating/rubbing metailic sound, when i clutch in and go to netural or step on the gas it goes away..

also on a side note, i have no clue how this happend but one of my injector decied to pop out of my fuel rail spraying fuel all over my hot engine.. thank god this was after my spirited driving about 2 block form my house.. right me and my boys sti were playing around.. i am so lucky, that was a huge fire waiting to happen.. wow...

i hate my car and its problems...

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KFL
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Car: S14
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turbo2nr wrote:update:

i was pushing the car last night, 80-90% throttle 3-4-5th gear pulls, 5psi.. (gay)

no slipage it held fine engaged fine ect, and i was pushing the car for a good couple of miles.

only problem to report was wierd noise on decel when in gear, sounds likes its comming from front of transmission, where clutch is.

sound is like a vibrating/rubbing metailic sound, when i clutch in and go to netural or step on the gas it goes away..

also on a side note, i have no clue how this happend but one of my injector decied to pop out of my fuel rail spraying fuel all over my hot engine.. thank god this was after my spirited driving about 2 block form my house.. right me and my boys sti were playing around.. i am so lucky, that was a huge fire waiting to happen.. wow...

i hate my car and its problems...
Hm vibrating metallic sound is either the throw out bearing or a loose flywheel bolt. (if you used loctite and torqued it down shouldn't be)That sounds like a loose bolt tapping on metal.The tob is more of a humming,whirring sound.. its mainly due to using a aftermarket tob not a nissan oem.

About the injector that is scary as hell, don't u you have injector caps? or is it some aftermarket rail.

The stock pressure plate should hold 5psi no problem, thats like about maybe 200/tq. Once you up the boost and beat on it, it will eventually start to slip. I'd say go with act,rps, exedy etc.


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C-Kwik
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turbo2nr wrote:hmm so if the adjustment is off it can cause the revs to shoot up even when in gear at a high rpm?

also whats the clamping load for a stock pressure plate?

i know the act and other companys are +1650lb/in

thanks
Think of it this way. A mis-adjusted clutch can behave as if you were holding the clutch pedal down slightly. This would prevent the pressure plate from providing a full load onto the disc. I don't know what the OE pressure plate clamping force is, but with the higher cF disc, I would think it would hold.

A surefire way to tell would be to put the front end on jack stands and check to see if the slave cylinder's pushrod is putting any force on the release arm with the pedal out. If it appears to be applying pressure, try opening the bleed screw and see if it releases the force on the arm. If it doesn't, you'll want to properly set the clutch engagement and freeplay according to the FSM. And if it is not releasing fully, do this sooner then later. A partially pressed pedal will still apply force to the TO bearing and add some wear to it. While TO bearings should last the life of a clutch, they typically do not see any load for most of the miles put on the clutch.


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