Lets talk about airboxes...

The G-Series Tuning Forum is the place to discuss G35/G37 performance modifications and mechanical repair.
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Dj_ciesta
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Here's the final product with my Stillen airbox and JWT pop charger.

So you can use the pop Charger with the stillen air box (I just ordered the airbox w/ ztube kit from everything g35)


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4drmadness
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yes u can

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Dj_ciesta
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ok well Mr. NewB (me) reads something gets exited and then researches it and gets confused. So any help please....Heres my dilema I wanted to put the 1/2" spacer on but then i talked to everything g35 and they recomended the 5/16" spacer and THEN i read something about the Kinetix V+ plenum and was thinking about that but i don't know what would be my best option. after reading and re-reading this forum I though i would do this

1)Ztube2)Stillen high flow intake box3)1/2" spacer

Then it was

1)Ztube2)stillen high flow intake box3)Pop Charger4)1/2" spacer

Quick call to everything G35 and THEN

1)ztube2)stillen high flow intake box3)5/16" spacer

my problem is now 5/16" or Kinetix V+ plenum any help? PLEASE!

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4drmadness
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Yo bro, just get the 5/16 spacer. It is the best for daily driving because it gives power across the whole powerbrand. Thats what i have. The 1/2 spacer will give you another 1-2hp in the higher rpms only. check the motordyne.com website to check out the dyno graphs for both. For the intake, get a ztube, and a jwt popcharger with a stillen airbox. U might have to pay double because none of those brands sell indiviual products. IMO just get the jwt popcharger and just heat wrap the heatshield, and u should be good. very minimal gains to make it worthwile.

You could also get the kinetix plenum. if you do, dnt get any spacer, because the kinetix acts as the spacer. holla at me if u need any more info.

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Dj_ciesta
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well ill go with the 5/6" spacer, but the problem is that i ordered the stillen air box on friday so it's on it's way so now i have to buy the pop charger too? More money more problems... BUT anything for her thanks doode how much power will the stillen box and pop charger together get me?

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4drmadness
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jus stick with the stillen intake box man, not worth spending extra on the jwt popcharger. it wont really give you gains that are worth it, so u shud be good to go man. after the spacer and intake, you still have a long way to go. here is what i would recommend

Get an engine damper, really helps with intial torque- 45 at ebayGrounding wires if your AT- jus get the two wires that attach from the ecu, and transmission, u could make it your selfthrottle body spacer- 100 bucks, 8hp- spacer monkey, coolant bypass mod- freemotordyne aramid gasket- check at motordynes website for this.

This should be good for ur engine

Now time for exhaustI highly recommend the stillen gen 2 exhaust, but i feel the only exhaust that would be better than stillen in terms of gain, but i cant be for certain.Get high flow cats (Fast Intentions, Kinetix, or Crawfors will do)then get headers (DC, Strup, Stillen, crawfords, Nismo) are all great man.

Loose some extra weight lying around in ur car, put in royal purple engine oil, keep up with maintenance. floor ur car

Finally get a tune

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Dj_ciesta
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Well the spacer that im going to order is going to be a pakage so its going to have the following Motordyne Plenum Spacer with gasketsIso Thermal Aramid Manifold GasketIso Thermal Coolant Control ValveCopper Throttle Body Heater AND IT's ON SALE I was looking in to exhaust but it's kind of pricy.so i have to save up

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4drmadness
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nice!!

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Dj_ciesta
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I got my airbox in yesterday, it was a hassel had to pick it up (fedX doesn't know how to use a door bell but I got home and it was raining so i waited untill it stoped and it was dark, but i got a flash light and got to work. Finished in an hour took it out around nine and it sounded great (well at over 3500 RPMS ) i'm exited over my next mod. I feel like shes changed more feisty One clomplaint though they did not include directions on how to install the ztube so i had to veighly recall what I red from NICO it all worked out though. I am going to send it to the shop for the next mod so I don't screw up cause there's a lot of specifics on how to bolt the nuts. all in all very happy.

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4drmadness
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cool, sounds like ur on ur way to becoming broke quite often, lol. MODS FTW. please get an exhaust after u are done with the engine part. ur car will love u for it.

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Dj_ciesta
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I ordered the parts today and I went to talk to my mechanic and he said labor was going to be around 215 to 250. So i got home and ordered a inch torque wrench for 30 dollars (Seven shipping) from Amazon and saved myself an estimated 213 US dollars. so in about a weeks time ill be ripping her apart again and that should be the last mod for a while. Untill i pay my credit card off and can afford the rest. Very exited though the ground cables are around 100-150 but they have a bunch of cables i don't need. so i don't know when ill see those. what will they improve BTW?

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4drmadness
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yea ur mechanic was overcharging man. umm the ground wires basically make ur shifts much smoother and faster. the shift lag is heavily reducsed. all the electronics in the car work a tad more quicker. car feels smoother to drive. its a great mod only if you are an AT imo. GO GET IT. if u want i can give u all the other wires except for the transmission and ecu, let me know.

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Dj_ciesta
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Hey i saw that you bought the ground wire kit from SBD so i'm guessing that they are prettty good would you recomend?

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4drmadness
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yup i woud recommedn them, let me know if u want my wires

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Dj_ciesta
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hey man i found some headers on amazon for a great deal do mind telling me what you think. I was thinking that if i take your wires where could i get the other two wires from any ideas?

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Dj_ciesta
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hey any ideas on this http://www.amazon.com/Fits-INF...r=1-5 i think it's pretty cheap what do you think?

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4drmadness
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send me a link for the headers. umm try getting headers that have been proven to give gains like DC, Strup, stillen, nismo. The ebay headers might work as well. jus try finding one that is a replica of the DC. send me the link for it, so i can let you know. umm you can always ask SBD to give you those 2 wires. I am a newb when it comes to lighting man.

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Dj_ciesta
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oh sorry man http://www.amazon.com/Megan-Ra...r=8-1 thats the headers.

tollboothwilley
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Megan headers have been used by a lot of people with the same basic results as what you would get with other brands.

I bought some headers off ebay. Construction of them looked good, good welds. DC, Megan, Strup, ...they all have the same design. You just want to make sure the welds and the collectors are built well and that the flanges are true and not warped.

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RED_DET
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A ghetto inch-lb wrench is a leather glove and screw driver socket setup.

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Dj_ciesta
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doode upir rims are super dope what are they?

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Dj_ciesta
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doode i need help after the install of the spacer and the throttle body spacer i had a bad iddle and my heater sptopped working i don't know why will she be ok? ANY thing come to mind i already did the throttle body reset but still rough iddle please HELP!

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4drmadness
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there are a lot of things u can do:First i would just reset the ecu, and take off the negative battery terminal.secondly, do the idle learn procedure, this is a tricky one, so have a stop watch with you, and itll take a few tries to get it right.Check to see if u left any bolts that are not tight enoughalso check for any leaksput the tube back in properly.

Dont worry, ur g will be ok, im guessing you just need to do an idle/volume relearn procedure.

http://www.nicoclub.com/articles.php?id=356397

Do all the procedures on that page. itll take some time, be patient.

Let me know how it goes.

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Dj_ciesta
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Ok so my idle is ok but my hot air is still freezing untill i hit 45 mile or higher then it warms up. any ideas i will try one more before i guve up cause it's three am and i started at four pm yesterday i'm such a newb

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smockers83
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If you did all of that, you did a lot of work for nothing. Anything that is heat related, the first thing you should always check is the engine cooling system. When you don't have heat, you usually don't have enough coolant and therefore not enough pressure in the system and the heater core is a small radiator in the cabin that the coolant goes through and that's how you get your heat. Other symptoms, although this doesn't apply to you, are a bad thermostat that is stuck open, therefore not allowing the coolant and engine to heat up properly.

pfarmer
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smockers83 wrote:If you did all of that, you did a lot of work for nothing. Anything that is heat related, the first thing you should always check is the engine cooling system. When you don't have heat, you usually don't have enough coolant and therefore not enough pressure in the system and the heater core is a small radiator in the cabin that the coolant goes through and that's how you get your heat. Other symptoms, although this doesn't apply to you, are a bad thermostat that is stuck open, therefore not allowing the coolant and engine to heat up properly.
An air bubble in the heater core can impede the flow of fluid within the core regardless of the amount of coolant in the rest of the system. It also has the effect of insulating the inner surface of the heater core from the flow that does get through. Water pressure at the discharge of the water pump, or more accurately differential pressure across it may well be within specs and this can still occur.

Perry


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