Let the audio upgrades begin!

[cory2081]

Well, I've had my '03 I35 for a couple weeks now and I just can't stand the Bose system. The highs just sound muddy and are drowned out by the mids, bass, and the rattling rear deck. So, I now have in my posession 2 18X32 sheets of dynamat, a PAC OEM-NIS2 (to get RCA outputs from the stock headunit), a pair of JL Audio VR650's (gonna put these up front), an Alpine MRP-F250 amp, and the install kit. It's a start at least, I plan on replacing the rear speakers in the near future and then adding a 2 channel amp and getting a free air 8" sub to replace the Bose 6.5". I think the last thing to go will be the headunit. I'll keep everyone posted on the progress and snap some pics Anyone know where I can find instructions on how to remove the factory headunit??

[MinisterofDOOM]

Sounds like a fun project.

[cory2081]

Still need some help with removing this headunit, anyone??

[Rex]

Does this seem applicable

STEP 1. Begin by removing the bezel that surrounds the shifter and also has the ashtray integrated into it. Carefully insert the hook tool under the bezel towards the back right corner between the bezel and the padding. Pull upward to release the back right clip. Perform this same action on the left back corner releasing the back left clip. Insert the hook tool under the bezel on the right side of the bezel between the padding just to the front of the shifter. Carefully pull upward to release the front side clip. Perform this same action on the left side of the bezel releasing the left front clip. Open the ashtray door and pull out the ashtray insert. Set the insert aside. Inside the ashtray cavity, locate a Phillips screw towards the back of the cavity. Remove that screw using the #2 Phillips screwdriver. Set the screw aside. Carefully grasp and pull the bezel out towards you making sure the bezel clears the front section of the shifter and the bottom section of the climate control. Let the bezel hang to the left side of the center console. Do not disconnect any wiring to the bezel.

STEP 2. Locate and remove the air vent assembly above the radio. To do this, insert the hook tool in only one side of the air vent as shown. Hook the side vent clip with the hook tool and pull the clip in while pulling out the air vent slightly. Do the same for the other side of the vent. With both side clips released, gently slide our the air vent assembly. Set the air vent aside.

STEP 3. Locate two hex head bolts inside the air vent cavity. Remove these bolts using the 8mm socket and driver. Set the bolts aside. Inside the ashtray cavity, directly below the radio, locate and remove two more hex head bolts. Grasp the radio and climate control module and pull it out of its cavity. Carefully let it rest on the center console.

[cory2081]

That is probably right, but, what is the "hook tool"? I have an idea and can probably make something that will work. Doesn't sound hard, I just like to be EXTRA careful when taking this stuff apart, I really don't want to break anything.

[maxhopper]

Here are a few diagrams from the FSM on the center console that might help.

[cory2081]

Thanks alot, that really helps! Time to run my RCA cables and install the PAC module After that, I still need to install the speakers, mount the amp and wire it up, and install the dynamat. Too bad my amp won't get here 'til next week!!! ARGH!

[cory2081]

Ok, I have the RCAs and turn on lead run now. I just picked up some MDF to make spacers for the speakers as I have read that they are too deep and will hit the window when it is rolled down. Gonna try to remove the head unit tomorrow and install the PAC module and connect the RCAs. I'll probably go ahead and replace the front speakers as well. Can't wait to hear how this sounds!!

On another note, I've noticed that my Bose head unit is having some issues. Sometimes my CDs skip, I know read about this problem somewhere. Hopefully a kit will become available for the I35 so I can ditch the "Blows" system altogether.

[cory2081]

Alright, everything is finally installed!! I Dynamatted the rear deck, which took a little time, but, fixed the rattles and made the sub sound alot better. I mounted my amp under the rear deck, just below the sub. The way I did this is with threaded rods, some nuts/washers. It was VERY time consuming, but, it looks AWESOME! You cannot even see the amp when you open the trunk, you actually have to look up at the rear deck to see it It was very hard to hold the amp up and do all the measuring, but, after about 5 hours of laying in the trunk, it finally got mounted. As for the speaker install, I used the factory speaker rings, didn't have to make custom ones from MDF. Had to do a little cutting on them, but, after that the speakers mounted perfect. Removing the head unit was a PITA. Those upper vents are really hard to get out, I thought I was going to break something. Anyway, it was all well worth it. After getting the amp adjusted, the system sounds soooooooooo good. Finally!! I can hear all of the little special effects in the music, and I can feel the snare, guitar, bass, and toms. (sorry, I'm a drummer, those things are a MUST!!) I'll have to post some pics soon.

[audtatious]

Good deal.

Sorry I missed this thread as I have documented most of what you are going through.

BTW, BOSE HU should go next. It really screws with the system because of it's pre-programmed EQ curves. Just be aware that you will lose steering wheel functionality unless you use a PAC SWI-X and you will only be able to show DTE on the cluster display.

[cory2081]

Good deal.

Sorry I missed this thread as I have documented most of what you are going through.

BTW, BOSE HU should go next. It really screws with the system because of it's pre-programmed EQ curves. Just be aware that you will lose steering wheel functionality unless you use a PAC SWI-X and you will only be able to show DTE on the cluster display.

Thanks for the info. I just got back from vacation today, going to take some pics and do a little write up tomorrow. As for the HU, from what I have read, there is 1 wire that has to be grounded on the harness to the HU when it gets replaced that is supposed to keep the full functionality of the display. Is this right or did I read it wrong?? Another thing is that there is not a kit for the I35 yet, so, I'll just have to wait. The system sounds extremley good as it is. The highs, mids, and bass seem to be equaled out very well throughout the car. Although the JL Audio speakers can produce much more volume than the Bose speakers can, I probably won't bee listening to my music above 20 on a regular basis-25 max. At 31, which is the HU's MAX, the JLs aren't breaking a sweat and niether is the amp, the gain is only about 1/3 of the way up.

[audtatious]

I won't be looking into the wiring for another week to fix the display. If I find it before you I'll post here.

[cory2081]

Ok, here is an update. I have now replaced the rear speakers with the same type JL Audios that I installed in the front. You HAVE TO make MDF rings for the rear speakers. The stock plastic rings will not accept the JL Audio speakers at all as the front ones did. Everything sounds geat, just wish I could tweak the EQ a bit. That will come soon enough when I get a new Head Unit. Here are some pics.

[cory2081]

Here is the AMP nicely mounted under the rear deck, you CANNOT see it when you open the trunk unless you stand on your head

[audtatious]

Looks good.