Let's Talk Oil Pumps and practical cooling...

Discuss topics related to the VH41DE, VH45DE, VK45DE, and VK56DE engines.
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Guishnu
Posts: 87
Joined: Thu Dec 14, 2006 11:58 am
Car: Nissan 200sx S13
Nissan R34 4 door
Nissan Patrol Y61
Location: London, United Kingdom
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Right then folks:-(see this thread zer...age=2 for reference on what im talking about)

Im at a point in my project now where im having to start thinking about the practical sides of cooling this engine. As some will know, drift/track cars have a tendancy to get VERY hot and this is magnafied 10 fold when having to do slower speed padock demonstrations (as i am often asked too)

I have come to the decision that (as much as it pains me) mounting the turbo's up top (IE: above/next to the wheel arches) is not practical. It's going to cause a lot of heat in the engine bay, the manifolds will never be anywhere near equal length and the maze of pipework would be unbelievable. Plus the added problem of possible crash/impact damage from a frontal impact. If i hit the front and it penitrated the front slam pannel, it would hit the turbos and destroy the manifold in the process (which equals serious £££ to replace and time off track)

So the turbo's are going to be mounted underneath, like Yuki Komiya's 240z (see pic at end of post) but will be tucked up out of the way a little better with air ducted to them to keep everything nice and cool (will also be properly braced etc)

The radiator will be mounted in what's traditionally the boot of the car, along with oil coolers. Water will be pumped through ally lines running through the car using a 110litres per min Davies Craig electric water pump. The right radiator and fan setup should keep everything nice and cool + the standard waterpump can be removed from the car compleatly.

This leaves the front of the car compleatly freed up for the intercoolers and associated ducting + power steering cooler.

So...

Providing nobody can see anything massivly wrong with the above, im wondering about the strength of the standard Q45 oil pump. Im guessing that there isn't an off the shelf uprated item for it. So what are the options, i have been looking into electric pumps but i can't see anything that's going to be any good as an alternative to the standard VH45 pump.

Does anybody have any sugestions or thoughts?? Is the standard VH pump up to it? Keeping in mind that it's going to have to pump oil through lines to the coolers at the back fo the car also? Is there a decent geared electric pump that's available?

Im planning on using a pair of electric pumps to run in conjunction with the water pump to keep pumping oil through the block/turbos once the car is turned off/on cool down.



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Carl H
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Car: 1995 Nissan 240SX SE RB30DET

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you can try shimming the oil pump for a bit more pressure but that does not equate to flow.best bet is to get ahold of a nz funnycar builder who has race prepped a vh engine...they would be able to give you loads of insight.

XJared
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so do you need more flow or just looking for a cooler running engine? i think your answer is just to run a large engine oil cooler inline with the filter.

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Mettler
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Joined: Sun Jan 15, 2006 4:05 pm
Car: HR31 GTS-8 coupe, VH41/45 Hybrid Transplant

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Carl H wrote:you can try shimming the oil pump for a bit more pressure but that does not equate to flow.best bet is to get ahold of a nz funnycar builder who has race prepped a vh engine...they would be able to give you loads of insight.
Shimming the oil pump?? How do you mean? More preload on the pressure bypass spring?

Also, funnycar != superstock car. Funnycars are typically nitro methane powered dragsters that pull 5 second 1/4 mile times. Superstocks drive on the oval dirt speedway and smash each other up.

Guishnu, the factory pump is pretty powerful and many of the superstock guys still run them... but some of them run long externally mounted dry sump pumps, which is probably what I'd recommend for your application.

I don't doubt the factory oil pump's capabilities due to its size and design, but I am unsure as to how its performace will be affected having to pump oil all the way to the back of the car as well as the turbos, and obviously still retain pressure for the hydraulic systems inside the engine itself.

I know that with pumps in general, pressure is typically lost if the pump has to pump upwards against gravity, but it doesn't seem like it would have to at any stage with your planned setup of low mounted turbos etc.

Something to think about anyway

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Bart
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If your turbo oil drains are going to be mounted level or lower than the sump you will need an electric scavenge pump like mine.Im using an RB Racing electric scavenge pump to drain the oil from the turbos then to the sump.I think what Mettler said would be the go, a dry sump pump sounds good to me.

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Guishnu
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I need John Dixon to turn up here and give me some in-depth insight into his dry sump system and costings!

John... John... Where are you John....

John Dixon
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Guishnu wrote:I need John Dixon to turn up here and give me some in-depth insight into his dry sump system and costings!

John... John... Where are you John....
Hi Chris, replied to your email mate

ultrapulse
Posts: 189
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Car: z32 300zx, Hilux & Datsun utes

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The only help I can give is that the std oil pump is fine, but you need to remove that std filter housing and run a more free-flowing remote /modified filter housing . This is what I have seen done after a couple of big end bearing issues with the std setup. Again oil grade and other variables (like more than necessary revs:) can also have a 'bearing' on engine longevity (no pun intended). I can try and find out more.


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