Lesson to be learned!

Discuss topics related to the CA18DE and CA18DET series engines.
boost_boy
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For you die-hard full synthetic oil users, you may want to keep in mind the age of the CA18DET. Full synthetic oils are thin and slippery and may not support the wear on these engines really well. I think this could be why some folks' oil pumps are crapping on them. I could be wrong, but I've seen the same thing with a few SRs around here that were supplemented with full synthetic oils. Once again, these engines are old and will need a thicker weight to support worn parts; unless you do a full rebuild. Good advice? You guys are the judges! But i run 20w50 part synthetic oils with part Lucas oil stabilizer and the results have been phenomenal. And to those who say that Lucas' products doesn't work, continue doing the things the way you know how.

Dee


pulsar gtr
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Ya I agree with boost boy, I use 15W50 mobile 1 full synethic and when I mix it with lucas oil stabilizer, I noticed a difference for the good.PULSAR GTR

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Notchbackca
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for road use or drag there isn't much of a problem with the lucas oil stuff... but if you autoX/roadrace then stear clear, I was able the froth the oil in the display case by just turning the little metal handle... engines turn alot faster than that, and lots of bubbles suspended in your oil is bad

CA18Fastback
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dee, what should I use for my motor since its pretty well built?

-Ian

pulsar gtr
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If the engine is Freshly rebuilt, you can't use synethic oil, as it will prevent you from breaking in the engine, use regular generic oil for the first 5k km then you can switch to synethic.

PULSAR GTR

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Nismo1182
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I used regular ol' Mobil 20-50 and I was still SOL.

boost_boy
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Quote »I used regular ol' Mobil 20-50 and I was still SOL.[/quote] Mechanical failure has nothing to do with you. We don't know the history of these motors. When they fail, it's usually because of the poor maintenance they've gotten somewhere along the way.

Dee

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GotBoost4Yall
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Cant be sure but was always told never to use Synthetic period on turbo cars.-*

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Notchbackca
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where did you hear that?

pulsar gtr
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Actually it is very highly recommended to use synethic oil on turbo engines, since these engines generate more heat and regular oil breaks at lower temp. than synethic.

PULSAR GTR

nab911
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I just have some 5w30 full syn thats going to get changed out after some running and cleaning but i just put it in to check for leaks.

Vetal
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So will semi-synthetic 15W-50 be better for my worn engine than fully synthetic 5W-40 or 5W-50?

Vetal
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pulsar gtr wrote:Actually it is very highly recommended to use synethic oil on turbo engines, since these engines generate more heat and regular oil breaks at lower temp. than synethic.

PULSAR GTR
Boost_boy please comment this also!Cause I always thought that turbo needs only fully synth., but now I see here and there that semi-synthetic can and should be used... I'm confused

boost_boy
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Quote »So will semi-synthetic 15W-50 be better for my worn engine than fully synthetic 5W-40 or 5W-50?[/quote] No. Stay away from the full synthetic stuff for your already worn motor. The only thing you'll be doing is finshing off your turbo's seal and eventually your mechanical engine itself. You'll need a heavier oil (20w50 or 50-60w racing oil). Different people do different things, but my opinion as well as experiences have been posted, so I will not double post those experiences. But rest assure that when this engine was created, synthetic oil wasn't in the equation. A rebuilt engine however, is a different animal.

Dee

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Trigger
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i run castroil 10w-30 in my ca and it runs fine....well ran fine last time i drove it

Tim

NeedCAforS13
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run some thicker oil... with the 10w-30 it was leaking past my turbo seals and burning. with the 20w-50 it no longer blackens my bumper:)

Sean

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float_6969
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Mines going to be a fairly fresh rebuild so I'm gonna run some Delvac through it to get it good and cleaned out. After that oil change I may switch to synetic due to the heat from the turbo. Haven't decided yet though...

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slw240sx
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lucas oil additives are crap i will not run them , they trap airbubbles in the oil at high RPms. i will run some castrol GTx 10w40 for the first 1500-3000K, then 15w50 mobil one the rest of the time. no additives at all, i may run amsoil if i get some more info on it.

Vetal
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boost_boy: didn't tell, I have almost new turbo (about 5000miles), and that's what I'm worry about most, cause motor itself soon will have to be rebuilt anyway. So main target is to prolong turbo's life

Also, in my country I couldn't find any 15W-50 or like semi-synth. Best (I think) I've found is Mobil1 5W-50 fully synth - is it OK, what do you reckon?Thank you

boost_boy
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Quote »Also, in my country I couldn't find any 15W-50 or like semi-synth. Best (I think) I've found is Mobil1 5W-50 fully synth - is it OK, what do you reckon?[/quote] A heavy weight oil might be what you need for your tired engine. 50-60weights will do just fine.

Oh yeah BTW, I use Lucas oil stabilizer and have been using it for as long as I can remember and I just don't see support to the claim that this product trap air bubbles. And with the proven beaten I've put on my motors, I definitely don't see an issue with using. But I say to all, try the full synthetic stuff on your JDM/used motor and see how it goes. But hey, to each his own;) .

Dee

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cortina-mk1
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oil grade selection also has to do with the temperature of the country or area the car lives inin the Ca18det workshop manual as with most other cars etc as well will have a chart indicating the recommended grade of oil for the climate its just another thing to keep in mind

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slw240sx
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i can run synthetic though , cause i have a "brandnew" motor lol

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BoroBoroS13
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I run Mobil 10-30 right now but might switch to something heavier one of these days...

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iliketocrash
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i used to run AMS oil on my 'ol GSX and it had 130k miles on it and it never ate a single drop of oil. then again the guy who owned it before took good care of the engine as well.


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