Have a 2007 Nissan Quest that I have been working on for the last 6 months. First engine problems which I have made it run better - it still smokes and gets a JDM engine transplant over the holidays, It hadn't been on the road in almost 6 moths so I wanted to take it out for a spin to see what shape the engine is in - in case something doesn't go right with the JDM engine.

History:
I replaced both drive shafts 4-5 months ago and had not driven it sense. I took it out for a spin last weekend and the new left driveshaft came out of the transmission and the van would not go in any direction. Had 4 guys push me up hill into the driveway where it picked up speed and almost crashed into the house. It was scary at the time but I can laugh at it now.

I went to the junk yard today and looked at a Quest drive shaft and all of the measurements were extremely close to both of the new driveshafts. I took the C-Ring off the junk yard driveshaft. I had purchased a second driveshaft from a different manufacturer and the C-Ring was just a hair smaller than the one from the junk yard. I swapped C-Rings and installed the drive shaft. It could easily be pulled right back out. I put everything back together and turned the steering wheel both ways and tried to drive the car and it wouldn't go anywhere.

What's the secret to getting a driveshaft that will stay in the transmission - or is it a transmission issue?

One more piece of info - on the first replacement I did put grease on the shaft. Is this the cause and do I need to spray brake cleaner in the transmission shaft hole?

Driveshaft is either the wrong one (common) or the c clip isn't seating properly. Is it the original trans or did you get it with the takeuut engine?

Grease is correct, not sure why you'd want to put brake cleaner (a solvent) in your trans.

I have tried two different new axles and they both slide in and out easily. There is very little resistance when the c-ring seats. I mention the grease as I'm at a loss for why it slides out so easily. I was thinking that either the grease shouldn't be there in which case I have to clean it out or go to the junk yard and get a used axle and try it. The other option is to clean the shaft and apply lock tight. To answer your question - the transmission is the original one. I haven't done the engine swap. I know of a low mileage used transmission that I could also install - but really don't want to spend the money for it if its not necessary.

When I had an Oldsmobile that did that , the original C-clip looked and was 'weak' . And also , and 80% of the problem was that the inner boot was like collapsed , was only about 75% the length of the driver's side.I put two 3" hose clamps on that boot to squeeze & reclaim it's proper length , AND another - better - c-clip.The setup worked , and the inner boot kinda got trained , whereas I could undo the big hose clamps couple months later.. I beleive the boot put outward pressure ,sliding in the tri-pot , pulling shaft out . and due to clip never really always seated caused the rubber to be compressed. Then time & heat cycling produced the shortened boot lenght that perpetuated this original problem.

javelinmania wrote: ↑

Sat Dec 11, 2021 10:43 pm

The other option is to clean the shaft and apply lock tight.

No, absolutely no. Loktite is for threaded fasteners. I think maybe there's some extreme confusion as to "what's in the hole" in a FWD transmission. The interior of the trans is bathed in ATF, including the inner axle shaft.

The axle stays in the transmission due to the C-clip locking into a groove as the axle is inserted, as well as the outer end being attached to the front hub.

Go grab a junkyard axle. There's a possibility it's not being fully seated into the trans. They usually require a pretty good whack to "pass" the c-clip groove and lock in place.

The other possibility is that when the previous axle failed, it damaged the internals. Have you dropped the trans pan to look for any metal?

javelinmania wrote: ↑

Sat Dec 11, 2021 12:36 pm

I went to the junk yard today and looked at a Quest drive shaft and all of the measurements were extremely close to both of the new driveshafts.

"Extremely close" is not a term that's used for driveshaft diameter. A set of digital calipers is needed, the diameter should be identical to the thousandth. Also count the splines.

https://itstillruns.com/replace-shaft-a ... 24246.html

I went to the junk yard and found a Quest that had a fairly new replacement axle. I looked at the gap between the large black part of the axle and the transmission case and realized that my problem wasn't that the axle was slipping out the transmission - but that I never had it fully inserted. When properly inserted there should be a 1/4 - 1/2 gap. I think my gap was 1.5 inches. Therefore, tomorrow evening I will give it a "Good Wack" and insert it all the way. I busted my knuckles getting the axle out of the junk yard van. It was in there tight.

There ya go.

Load the end up with grease, and center the c clip (with the grease) so it's not centered on the shaft, and send it home with a nice straight whack.

Helps to have a helper, a deadblow, and a block of wood. Thread the axle nut on flush with the end of the stub to get a nice flat surface to drive it in.

I gave the axle a few hard whacks and it went in the transmission to the proper depth. Problem solved.

Nicely done sir. Hope you stick around.

Nice. I have struggled at times getting those inner splines to seat. Once I had the inner boot twisted after struggling to get things together. A friend who is an excellent mechanic just happened over while I was working, looked at it popped it out, rotated it and popped it back in like it was no big deal. I don't know how these things happen!