leather care.

[N/A Q45]

Has anyone found what brand, or DIY that works the best?

[elwesso]

I think the key is making sure it's clean before you use any sort of conditioner. Honestly I prefer just wipe the seats down with a damp cloth and call it good. If you want to deep clean them, use a little dish soap and then wipe them off with a soapy rag, then "rinse" with a clean rag. If you do that, then you'll want to condition them afterwards, and I like Lexol for that. It works good and most auto parts stores have it.

[N/A Q45]

I think the key is making sure it's clean before you use any sort of conditioner. Honestly I prefer just wipe the seats down with a damp cloth and call it good. If you want to deep clean them, use a little dish soap and then wipe them off with a soapy rag, then "rinse" with a clean rag. If you do that, then you'll want to condition them afterwards, and I like Lexol for that. It works good and most auto parts stores have it.

Lexol? Don't think I have seen it up here but I'll double check. I've tried most of the name brand expensive conditioners but the seats are still getting worse and drying out.

I usually use two parts Linseed oil and one part vinegar to clean them that works pretty good, or atleast better then any of the leather cleaners I have tried.

The conditioning is the hard part. Do your seats still progressively crack using Lexol?

[Q45-V8]

Check out Mother's "leather-tech" I just picked up the cleaner and conditioner and it seems to work good. the trick is to use it frequently... like, once every two weeks, possibly more if you feel theyre going fast...

[Turbon8er]

I actually JUST cleaned and conditioned my seats. So i was introduced to Zaino Bros. products and i can't believe they're not more recognized. The guy at the parts store who seemed to "know everything about interior care" had never even heard of them. lmao

http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2/mer ... t_Count=15

I used the Blue Coral leather CLEANER and let everything dry completely before using the Zaino Bros. Leather in a Bottle. And it is by far the best leather conditioner i've used, and should be considering it has Real Leather Oils in it! Not only did the seats return to their supple silky smooth softness, but when i opened up the car door the next morning it had that brand new leather smell permeating from it. Unlike the turtle wax, etc brands that have their own chemical smell, Zaino's was pleasant. It's been maybe 2 weeks since i did it and it still has a really clean smell, of course less prominent than before.

Most of all, take your time, get in those crevices where all the nasty stuff hides. My seats didn't even look dirty, but my new white rag was black after wiping my cracks.

[N/A Q45]

I actually JUST cleaned and conditioned my seats. So i was introduced to Zaino Bros. products and i can't believe they're not more recognized. The guy at the parts store who seemed to "know everything about interior care" had never even heard of them. lmao

http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2/mer ... t_Count=15

I used the Blue Coral leather CLEANER and let everything dry completely before using the Zaino Bros. Leather in a Bottle. And it is by far the best leather conditioner i've used, and should be considering it has Real Leather Oils in it! Not only did the seats return to their supple silky smooth softness, but when i opened up the car door the next morning it had that brand new leather smell permeating from it. Unlike the turtle wax, etc brands that have their own chemical smell, Zaino's was pleasant. It's been maybe 2 weeks since i did it and it still has a really clean smell, of course less prominent than before.

Most of all, take your time, get in those crevices where all the nasty stuff hides. My seats didn't even look dirty, but my new white rag was black after wiping my cracks.

Your cracks should always be clean! lol..

It sounds like you're their newest sales man ha. But I'll look into them aswell.

P.s probably not the healthiest to breath in a large about of the off gassing.

[Turbon8er]

Your cracks should always be clean! lol..

It sounds like you're their newest sales man ha. But I'll look into them aswell.

P.s probably not the healthiest to breath in a large about of the off gassing.

i had a feeling you'd catch that

lol, im definitely not representing that company, i was just thoroughly pleased with the outcome. I've used stuff from 'Autobone' in the past that was mehh ok, so it was nice to use a well developed product that actually performed.

i don't know what you mean about outgassing.... i always take breaks between huffing solvents and gas, ten minute intervals or when i return to consciousness. Whatever comes first. On a sidenote, Anybody know how to get this gold paint off?

[N/A Q45]

Your cracks should always be clean! lol..

It sounds like you're their newest sales man ha. But I'll look into them aswell.

P.s probably not the healthiest to breath in a large about of the off gassing.

i had a feeling you'd catch that

lol, im definitely not representing that company, i was just thoroughly pleased with the outcome. I've used stuff from 'Autobone' in the past that was mehh ok, so it was nice to use a well developed product that actually performed.

i don't know what you mean about outgassing.... i always take breaks between huffing solvents and gas, ten minute intervals or when i return to consciousness. Whatever comes first. On a sidenote, Anybody know how to get this gold paint off?

[OwnerCS]

Just a quick note from a Q owner that started with a driver seat botton that once looked (past tense) like the following picture. Today I have open gaps in the areas where cracks are showing in the following picture.

1) The leather used in our seats has a clear polyurethane coating. It makes the seats last longer than European car leather that has not been coated. While the polyurethane coating is intact, the finished leather will not absorb any applied treatments.

2) Cracks in the polyurethane coating will allow leather treatments to soak into the actual leather hide. Some leather cleaners and softening agents may soak into the cracks and cause the exposed rawhide leather to absorb the chemicals from the treatment. In my case, treating the cracks with various "fill in the blank expensive treatment" accellerated the rawhide deteriation. The cracks have opened to be about 1/2 inch wide and the seat foam is now exposed.

Fortunately, I have enough original leather from a rear seat back to get the front driver seat bottom restored. That will cost at least $600 with a local trim shop that specializes in classic restorations. OUCH.

This post is not intended to endorsing or condemm any leather treatment product. I am posting this as a lesson learned for any owner with pristene seats to use caution when selecting a leather treatment product. Polyurethane coated seats by design, may not respond to a leater treatment product like leather that is uncoated. As Wes stated above, sometimes the simplest products work best for poly coated leather that responds to treatments more like vinyl or leatherette.

So be careful when selecting a product that guarantees leather finish restoration as it may contain chemicals that will damage exposed rawhide through cracks or thread stitching areas.

[N/A Q45]

Just a quick note from a Q owner that started with a driver seat botton that once looked (past tense) like the following picture. Today I have open gaps in the areas where cracks are showing in the following picture.

1) The leather used in our seats has a clear polyurethane coating. It makes the seats last longer than European car leather that has not been coated. While the polyurethane coating is intact, the finished leather will not absorb any applied treatments.

2) Cracks in the polyurethane coating will allow leather treatments to soak into the actual leather hide. Some leather cleaners and softening agents may soak into the cracks and cause the exposed rawhide leather to absorb the chemicals from the treatment. In my case, treating the cracks with various "fill in the blank expensive treatment" accellerated the rawhide deteriation. The cracks have opened to be about 1/2 inch wide and the seat foam is now exposed.

Fortunately, I have enough original leather from a rear seat back to get the front driver seat bottom restored. That will cost at least $600 with a local trim shop that specializes in classic restorations. OUCH.

This post is not intended to endorsing or condemming any leather treatment product. I am posting this as a lesson learned for any owner with pristene seats to use caution when selecting a leather treatment product. Polyurethane coated seats by design, may not respond to a leater treatment product like leather that is uncoated. As Wes stated above, sometimes the simplest products work best for poly coated leather that responds to treatments more like vinyl or leatherette.

So be careful when selecting a product that guarantees leather finish restoration as it may contain chemicals that will damage exposed rawhide through cracks or thread stitching areas.

That sucks, and I've noticed the same thing. I've been trying to treat the leather since I bought it and it just keeps getting worse. .
I've got two cars and the drivers seat is rather bad on each but the passenger seat is not bad at all so I am thinking about just switching the cushions, maybe you could get lucky and do the same with yours.