leaky headgasket :\

Discuss topics related to the CA18DE and CA18DET series engines.
originalsin
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so i had a transmission leak, pretty sure its the input shaft seal. it also looked like the side of my block was wet, so im liek w/e ill pull the motor, well it ends up my headgasket is leaking on the outside, exhaust side near cyl #4 so yea, i guess the bigger turbo will have to wait. anyways i plan on just doing a stock hg, and arp studs. im going to have the head machined for sure, but if im using a stock hg do i rly need to get the block done? i mean everything is running fine, but im considering doing bearings and an oil pump while its out. just looking for some advice


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rico05
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Well, if you have the extra coin, by all means, do all that you can. If you are to have the block decked you will have to pull out everything anyway, so new bearings and oil pump would be a good idea. BUT those are about $300+ combined, so add that to your machining costs.

I think it a bit odd that most of us with leaky hg's lately have been leaking from the same exact place. Hmmmmm.

originalsin
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rico05 wrote:I think it a bit odd that most of us with leaky hg's lately have been leaking from the same exact place. Hmmmmm.
thats why im thinking it could possibly be the block, like everyone thinks "oh an iron block i dont need to get this decked" but in one thread someone from europe was like yea the ca block sinks or warps or something like that in the back and thats why ppl blow metal gaskets on stock power and they go over 400 on stock gaskets. the bearings would be no biggie, but the oil pump, so much money

Swedish Mike
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I wrote that. We got massive headgasket and rod bearing problems here.Most common on German import cars, a lot of autobahn driving + few liters of oil + bad cooling = bearing problems.After grinding the crank and swap bearings we mount a front mounted oil cooler and can fill another liter into the system.

Enough about that... Wanted to say, I always grind (wrong word?) the block to get it straight, the area over 4:th cylinder is often lower.After this the headgaskets will last a loooong time.

/Mike

originalsin
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blahh, i totally dont want / dont have the money to get the block decked, bcuz that means new bearings and oil pump

**** it, a headgasket is $50 ima just use a stocker, copper it and hope it holds, if it goes i will be done for the season and do a full rebuild, and ill only be out $50bucks

Swedish Mike
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I
originalsin wrote:blahh, i totally dont want / dont have the money to get the block decked, bcuz that means new bearings and oil pump

**** it, a headgasket is $50 ima just use a stocker, copper it and hope it holds, if it goes i will be done for the season and do a full rebuild, and ill only be out $50bucks
I usually use the old oilpump, just open it up and check for dirt or bearing pieces.Never had any problems with the pumps.

/Mike

originalsin
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Swedish Mike wrote:I

I usually use the old oilpump, just open it up and check for dirt or bearing pieces.Never had any problems with the pumps.

/Mike
yea but all the machine and assembly costs will kill me, i mean i can disassemble it but then ill have to pay for machine work and id want to get the bottom end assembled, i dont trust myself with that and bearings will be liek wat $50?

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rico05
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Well, I will know if my copper spray and Felpro worked tomorrow evening.

originalsin
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are u using arp's?

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rico05
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Not yet. Just properly torqued head bolts.

capwred
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all these head gaskets leaking is not good.i hope mine dont.i have to much time and money in these thing.i had the blaock and head resurface so i hope it all works out.

originalsin
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ok so i pulled the exhuast mani today along with other things. anyways im trying to get the crank pulley off but all thats happening is the engine is turning over, no biggie i can hit it with the impact. BUT then i notice, wen i turn the motor over it gets hard and compresses but then it all hisses out and gets easy to turn, like how long should it hold compression for? i know the rings arent toal seal but it leaks out in like 3secs

originalsin
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ok so i got the head off today, cylinder walls look fine, and the headgasket looked relatively new, buttttt i pulled out 10head bolts and only 9 washers..... now i guess i could have missed a washer but i look everywhere for it and no dice

capwred
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make sur you didnt drop one in the head.

when i was putting mine in i droped on in the head and had to fish it out.

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kota2240
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originalsin wrote:ok so i got the head off today, cylinder walls look fine, and the headgasket looked relatively new, buttttt i pulled out 10head bolts and only 9 washers..... now i guess i could have missed a washer but i look everywhere for it and no dice
Whats your update?? I just noticed today that i had oil coming from the same spot you did thinking it was something around the transmission. My sparkplug has no oil and my car runs really damn strong at stock boost with the gt28r. I know i cant run the car like this forever so i just took the motor out. Just wanted to know if using a stock gasket worked for you? I had my head resurfaced but i guess im kicking myself in the *** for not getting the block done.

Maybe you guys will see a lot of stuff for sale soon haha. I hate to get rid of my stuff but my new job and finding a new place to live is taking to much time.

originalsin
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felpro headgasket and arp head studs, havent started it yet but i think itll be fine, i mean its a stock gasket, getting the head done is a must, with a stock headgasket unless the block is rly bad i think you dont rly need to do the block. i copper sprayed it also

Swedish Mike
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originalsin wrote:felpro headgasket and arp head studs, havent started it yet but i think itll be fine, i mean its a stock gasket, getting the head done is a must, with a stock headgasket unless the block is rly bad i think you dont rly need to do the block. i copper sprayed it also
If the block is bad it will leak again after some boost, you can´t pull the block straight with the head bolts.

I know a guy that swapped gasket types and bolts 4 times before he realized he needed a straight block.

/Mike

originalsin
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i dident say the arp's would help at all, and i did say if the block is bad itll have to be done, lol

Swedish Mike
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originalsin wrote:i dident say the arp's would help at all, and i did say if the block is bad itll have to be done, lol
I´m just being an a-hole. Good luck, it might work.

/Mike

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rico05
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Well, the Felpro worked for me, so hopefully it works for you.

Now to just get rid of the damn valve cover leak, LOL.

boost_boy
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It'll work! You guys aren't putting enough stress on these motors to really affect the block, unless you have over-heated it till death. I think your block will be just fine,

Dee

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rico05
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When I did mine the 2nd time (the right way) I used a straight edge to check the block and head. I have popped coolant lines before and seen well over H on the stock gauge and both were still true. Well, off enough for my Cometic to leak but my Felpro and copper spray to hold tight.


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