Leaky Headgasket (Redtop sr20det)

[noodl35]

Well I just completed a medium rebuild on my sr20det. While my head was at the machine shop getting new valve seals installed i had them mill my deck. I got ARP head studs along with a cometic gasket. Torqued it all down in steps till i reached 80lbs (even used the moly lube that came with the arp studs). Ok, heres whats confusing me. I poured 3 quarts of oil into the motor to test for leaks. Next morning I see that there is oil leaking from my oil pan(dented up) so im buying a greddy one. Second, I see a thin oily seam on the headgasket line between the head and block (by the heater hose areas). Wiped it with my finger and surely it felt like oil. Now a friend told me that you have to fire up the motor and let it heat the gasket to properly seal it. I'm thinking since there is no oil pressure that its just leaking out naturally?? I'm kinda stumped and I don't want to take my head off again =\. Maybe I should put nissan gasket sealant under and on top of the headgasket. Am I Okay or is this a major problem. Any help would be appreciated.

-David

[Nismo_Freak]

Run a leak down test.

[VitaminT]

Did you clean the block surface good? Also did you use any copper spray on the headgasket to help it seal?

[s13sr20chris]

do the metal gaskets require copper spray? i really dont know. is the cometic gasket a multi layer steel type or a plain steel type?

[noodl35]

It is a multilayer type with grommets. No i did not spray any copper on it because the guy at the machine shop said i did not have to. I milled the deck on the head but i did not on the block. THe block seemed fine, lil heat scorches here n there but nothing major. I cleaned the block surface very well, i even got a toothpick to pick out old gasket sealer in the threads. I just put the headgasket in between and torqued the arp's to 80 lbs..thats it. SO are you guys telling me that this is not normal? I have been thinking about running a leak down test. I do have a 20 gallon air compressor and i heard you can make your own leak down tester. Any suggestions?

-David

[9240sx]

Did you follow the FSM steps on doing the head studs?You dont actually torque down to a number of lbs.you first torque all the studs in tighten order to 30lbs and then in order to 60lbs,And then lossen all the studs.And then in tightening order do all the studs to 60lbs,Then do two 90deg turns,One at a time in order,then your done.Thats how the fsm said.And thats how i did mine,and no leaks.Let me know if you need the tighten order.

-good luck-

[noodl35]

I followed the steps according to the FSM but then i followed the ARP instructions that you only need to torque down the ARP studs ONCE, not loosening then retightening. I talked to an older mechanic and he said that the multilayer grommet type of gaskets need the engine to be heated up first so the black residue will completely seal the block and head. I'm guessing problem solved?

[Nismo_Freak]

I followed the steps according to the FSM but then i followed the ARP instructions that you only need to torque down the ARP studs ONCE, not loosening then retightening. I talked to an older mechanic and he said that the multilayer grommet type of gaskets need the engine to be heated up first so the black residue will completely seal the block and head. I'm guessing problem solved?

Either way you have to take the engine apart... start it up and see what happens.

[noodl35]

will do, thanx for the help guys