For AWD you want B, the "Converter Housing Side" on TM-195.

Now I see the dimensions of that tool NT-115.
I might measure some of my sockets and see how it fits, when I buy another seal.
In fact I might as well buy 2, just in case.

Thanks for your help!

That would be a bigazz socket, but maybe. You could get a 2" OD exhaust coupler, that would work.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.ph ... 9&pt=47178

HA !! now that I see this, I seen those at Auto stores. I'll take the seal and see what fits.

Thanks again!

The 2" OD should fit exactly on one side or the other, but if you want to hedge bets get a 2" OD x 2" ID. 54mm is 2.13" and 47mm is 1.85". Standard wall thickness for exhaust pipe is .065", which makes the ID of the 2" OD 1.87". The 2" ID would be 2.13" OD and 2.00" ID, so one should be a snug fit to the inside rubber, the other a snug fit to the outside.

DANG !! you know your stuff !!

Rockhoundrob wrote: ↑

Mon May 09, 2022 6:51 pm

DANG !! you know your stuff !!

Well Vstar IS a certified Nissan Tech.

An old one lol.

DISASTER!!!
I did this again. Put the new seal in nicely and it is leaking even worse!!

So I give up and will be taking it to the dealer. I have NO idea what is wrong, but I can see it is still coming from the seal.
Used the seal driver and no kinks or twisting that was noticeable. Just tapped slowly for about 5-10 mins until it looked good.

I appreciate The input and advice from VStar.

Sorry to hear that you’re throwing in the towel in because I was rooting for you which is why I didn’t want to bring up the idea of just bringing it to the dealership.

You seemed adept at car repairs, so I kept my mouth shut and didn’t want to discourage you. But during the beginning of the initial posts, I really wanted to because I was overwhelmed just reading it.


Anyways, I’ve been there too when I tried a cv boot repair project on my Rogue but unfortunately I ended up with a messy leak on my driver’s side cv axle again. I usually do repairs in steps, so the procedure could take a week, my choice because I like to pace myself.

But there are the times where I need to go to the dealership for the convenience instead of into that rabbit-hole again.

So to save a few bucks, I ordered a oem cv axle on EBay from a genuine Nissan dealership then I got the most affordable labor cost between two dealerships and made an appointment.

Went in at 7:30 in the morning, a couple of hours of eating snacks with my kid in the kiddie room watching tv and surfing the internet. A few hours later. Done.

Smooth sailing since.

Even though I’ve been modding and repairing my Rogue for over a decade, there are certain times I like letting the pros do what they do best.

Cheers to VStar!

TIME OUT !!!
I woke up at 3:00 in the morning realizing what the problem might be.

So I am going to try again today and this time take plenty of measurements and referencing those measurements to the old CV axle.
Hopefully I will have good new later today.

Well, it looks like the problem is solved.
I will be leaving the Rogue in the driveway overnight and see if there are any fluid on the pavement tomorrow.

Bottom line, the seal was too far into the transmission to get good contact on the CV axle.
The instructions in the FSM was not very clear and even some of the measurements were good, IF the transmission is on the bench where everything is accessible.
With the exhaust, seal bearing bracket, body frame in the way, there is NO WAY you can measure 2mm called for in the FSM. The reference point is not clear either.

If everything is still good on Monday, I will draw diagrams, post measurements and instructions on how to put the seal in.

OK, here is my input from my experience. I hope this will help others from having any issues or trouble.
If you want to change the CV axle seal on the front passenger side, here are some steps, lessons learned and helpful ideas.

1) Parts:
I went to the auto stores to get the seal and a new CV axle. If you are going to change the seal, you are better off getting a new CV axle also.
I went to 2-3 auto stores to get the seal and they ALL gave me the wrong ones. I ended up getting the seal at a Nissan Dealer. Luckily, I checked the wrong seals on the CV axle to see if they fit before even starting on the car.

Seal part # is 38342-3VX0B.

2) Before you start, it is best to spray penetrating oil on the carrier bearing/bracket every other day for 1-2 weeks. If you are in a dry part of the USA, 1 week should be fine. If you are in the NE part of the USA or on the coast, then you better go for 2 weeks. I heard this carrier bearing can rust in the carrier bracket and can be difficult to remove.

3) Loosen lug nuts. Set the parking brakes and block the rear wheels. Then jack up car to remove front passenger wheel. For extra safety, I put the front passenger wheel under the front of the car and a stand under the support frame near the front passenger door.

4) Remove hub bearing nut. Try to tap the CV axle to make sure it moves inward. Don’t tap on the axle itself. Use the nut on the axle or use a pointed chisel and tap in the dimple at the outer end of the axle.

5) Loosen the 2 knuckle-to-strut bolts/nuts. Do not remove bolts yet. It is OK to remove the nuts.

6) Remove the clamp on the strut that holds the brake line in place. Move the line and leave it loose.

7) Remove the speed sensor wire from the strut. There are 2 rubber grommets snapped into metal brackets. Pull the grommets out and leave wire loose.

8) Remove nut on the outer tie-rod and separate the tie rod from the knuckle.

9) Remove the 2 bolts and clamp on the carrier bearing bracket.

10) Remove the 2 large bolts from the knuckle/strut. The knuckle will come loose. Let it swing out and swivel it towards the rear of the car. Be careful not to let the brake line or the speed sensor line to get pulled or kinked.

11) Remove the CV axle. You may need to use a CV puller. NOTE: If you plan to reuse the CV axle, do not pull on the outer axle or you will separate the inner axle joint.

12) Go under the car and remove the seal with a large screwdriver. See drawing from FSM below. Be careful to put the edge of the screwdriver on the seal and not scratch the transmission case. Then pry it out. You may need to use your fist to hit the handle of the screwdriver.

13) This is where I had a lot of trouble with the instructions. I couldn’t figure out where the reference point was and how to measure the 2mm with the exhaust, bearing bracket, and other things in the way. So, I did some reverse measurements.
a) When putting in the new seal, use a seal driver to tap the seal in, until you no longer see the metal part. Then be EXTRA careful to make sure the seal is even all the way around with the fitting. Look close and you will see a rubber ring around the outer seal.

This ring needs to be flush with the outer part of the transmission opening. As a back up measurement, the end of the rubber part (dust shield) of the seal should be protruding ¼ inch out from the surface of the transmission. I cut an 8-inch section of a measuring tape to use. Be sure to check 3-4 spots around the seal, so you know it is an even ¼ inch in every spot. If you don’t want to cut a measuring tape, you could use a popsicle stick and make a mark on the stick at ¼ inch. b) I had trouble making the seal even all the way around. Once the metal part was in far enough to hold the seal in place, one side was out 1/16th inch too much. So, I broke one of my rules and used a screwdriver to tap the side of the seal that was sticking out too much. BUT I put 4-5 thin strips of duct tape over the tip of the screwdriver to make it blunt and not have any sharp edges. When tapping, place the blade with the tape on it in between the 2 rubber dust shields that is on the outer rim. Tap the screwdriver LIGHTLY!! Better to tap it 50 times and get it done, than 5 times and dent the seal. 14) Lubricate spline and the portion on the axle where the inner part of the seal will fit. Install new CV axle. This is what it should look like with the seal and axle in place. 15) Put outer CV axle into the wheel hub and put knuckle and strut together and install the 2 bolts. Don’t tighten yet.

16) Make sure the carrier bearing is fully seated then install carrier bearing clip and 2 bolts.

17) Install tie-rod end to knuckle

18) Tighten all bolts to spec:
NOTE: I am doing this by Chilton, but I have some doubts!
Carrier bearing – 18 ft lbs ……..…(I tightened to 25)
Tie rod nut – 25 ft lbs …………….(I tightened to 30)
Strut-Knuckle bolts – 75 ft lbs…. ( I tightened to 85)
Hub-Axle nut – 110 ft lbs ………… ( I tightened to 110)

19) Put tire on.

20) I just poured ½ quart to make up for the loss of fluid, while the seal as out.
I then drove around for about 10 minutes, then came back to a level garage and checked level while engine is running.


NOTES:
A) If you have trouble getting your hand/arms in where the seal needs to go, you can remove the carrier bearing bracket.

B) I had trouble using the seal driver and hammer in the space where the carrier bracket was, so I bought a 4-foot gas pipe and put duct tape on the upper and lower part of the seal driver handle. I believe I had to wrap it about 11-13 times to take up the space in the pipe. Then I insert the handle into the pipe. Now you have a seal driver with a 4-foot handle! This is so the handle won’t tilt while tapping on the other end of the pipe. I was under the car holding the driver into the seal and placing it properly, while someone else tapped on the other end of the pipe. I told the helper when to tap and how hard.

C) If you have trouble driving the seal in, you could add transmission fluid on the outer rim to lubricate it. It went in alright, but it was tilted. When I tried to tap on the side that was out too far, then opposite side popped out.
So, I dried everything out and tried again and it seems that the dry install worked better for me.

D) Last, but not least…. I am really disappointed in the seal design. I am not an expert, but it would seem the seal should have a metal ring around the outer rim where the rubber ring is. Then cover that metal rim with rubber. That way, you can tap it in, the ring will let you know when to stop.

I doubled checked and the following specs should be used tightening the bolts and nuts.

Knuckle to Strut - 104 ft lbs
Tie-rod end - 25 ft lbs
Axle Nut - 135 ft lbs
Carrier bolts - 18 ft lbs

My 21 with 3K miles is leaking. The parts are on order. The seal is in but we're waiting on the axle which needs to be replaced. I discovered it when I did the first oil change.