Latest Service bill?

[datechboss101]

So, I just went to Nissan on Tuesday after dropping one excess quart of Honda ATF that I didn't need, and had the SA do a "free" inspection on the Rogue. So, they recommended me to do a balance and alignment for the new replacement tire, and on top of that mess, they recommended me to replace ALL 4 tires. That's one shady a$$ strategy IMO. Next, they quoted me $270 for a transmission flush and said CS Nissan (dealer I bought my Rogue from) is using non-OEM CVT fluid, which again threw me off. On-top of that they said I need to do a carbon cleanup for $150 with them. Also, they recommended me to do an induction for $150. Even with all of those, they even told me that I should do a brake fluid flush for $130, when I changed it at 48k miles in April. Clearly, I declined all of these services, cause most of their nonsense is just pure BS.

1) What the firetruck is an Induction service?
1.5) For the induction, is it really necessary to do at 58k - 60k miles?
2) Should I do my D&F at the dealer I bought my Rogue from?
3) Where is the best place to buy OE Dunlop tires? (I ain't buying from dealer).
4) Can the brake fluid survive for an additional 30k miles?

[ras_oscar]

Are you female?

[datechboss101]

Are you female?

No... I'm just a broke a$$ college student living off scholarship money

However, this past weekend my service bill was $1128.66 . The breakdown:
Oil Change-- $8.88 ($26.07 discount)
Transmission flush-- $208.95
Tires-- $211 x 3 + $1= $696.00 ($210 discount)
Alignment--$89.00 ($20.00 discount)
Disposal Fee-- $39.93
Mount and Balance 1 tire-- $22.00

However, getting the new tires removed this vibrating and shaking issue that my Rogue was giving.

[amc49]

The induction service likely means simply flushing the intake with seafoam or the like. Waste of money. Take it from someone who has never paid for car repair ever and for over 45 years now. The only place in the intake stream at all that ever needs any cleaning is at the throttle body aircrack and possibly the PCV valve itself, both are close tolerance metering devices and need to be kept clean. Maybe EGR passages on some types. I forgot the MAF, that needs to be kept clean as well. All other cleaning there is pretty much free money for dealer and does nothing to the car to run better, longer at all.

I have never changed a PCV valve in my entire life, you simply drop the original one into a container of strong solvent (I use acetone) to let it dissolve any deposits, blow it out and reuse it like a new one.

I never change tires ever except in pairs only and I never rotate tires ever either, pretty much all FWD vehicles add a wear issue that RWD never did and nobody ever says a thing about it, but they sure will sell you those 4 tires at once when they wear all wonky as the rotation actually makes that issue WORSE. I get virtually the rated mileage on all tires used unless they simply go bad from suncracking here in the Texas heat. I even quit balancing them about 3-4 years ago and STILL the cars don't shake whatsoever and drive like a new one at all times. I align all my front ends as well and using a measuring tape, an angle finder and string, and how I used to align 200+ mph race cars.

Most of you won't agree with that but I assure you my reality can be yours if you simply look at things the way they ARE rather than how all the 'in-the-box' thinking says it is. The dealers and other repair shops are NOT your friends other than at bill paying time and even the entire industry is tilted against you if you really want to know it. I have spent my life bursting that bubble thousands of times to my personal benefit.

[datechboss101]

The induction service likely means simply flushing the intake with seafoam or the like. Waste of money. Take it from someone who has never paid for car repair ever and for over 45 years now. The only place in the intake stream at all that ever needs any cleaning is at the throttle body aircrack and possibly the PCV valve itself, both are close tolerance metering devices and need to be kept clean. Maybe EGR passages on some types. I forgot the MAF, that needs to be kept clean as well. All other cleaning there is pretty much free money for dealer and does nothing to the car to run better, longer at all.

I have never changed a PCV valve in my entire life, you simply drop the original one into a container of strong solvent (I use acetone) to let it dissolve any deposits, blow it out and reuse it like a new one.

I never change tires ever except in pairs only and I never rotate tires ever either, pretty much all FWD vehicles add a wear issue that RWD never did and nobody ever says a thing about it, but they sure will sell you those 4 tires at once when they wear all wonky as the rotation actually makes that issue WORSE. I get virtually the rated mileage on all tires used unless they simply go bad from suncracking here in the Texas heat. I even quit balancing them about 3-4 years ago and STILL the cars don't shake whatsoever and drive like a new one at all times. I align all my front ends as well and using a measuring tape, an angle finder and string, and how I used to align 200+ mph race cars.

Most of you won't agree with that but I assure you my reality can be yours if you simply look at things the way they ARE rather than how all the 'in-the-box' thinking says it is. The dealers and other repair shops are NOT your friends other than at bill paying time and even the entire industry is tilted against you if you really want to know it. I have spent my life bursting that bubble thousands of times to my personal benefit.

My local mechanic just gave up on warranting a seal for the Accord and said go to Honda. Also, I took full advantage of the local Honda dealer when they hit the Accord with a new car, and they were at fault. Got a free paint job, warranty work, and loaner for like 10 days. Typically I only use dealers for oil changes and tire rotations because regular maintenance. If something looks doable for me with the tools I have in my garage, I go straight to DIY and the stuff done. And this weekend, I have to self-diagnose the HVAC issue for the Honda.

[amc49]

Amen bro. You will never get paid higher than what you save on most repair taken away from the dealer, there is even quite a bit of loss room built in there unless you are one who simply throws parts at things.

I tend to run checks on my 'pay' there (real world savings actually) and on certain ATX repairs where a shop told me I had to have a new transmission I made as much as $2500/hr. by coming up with a fix say shimming up a servo with a 30 cent washer to make the trans shift correctly again. Trans then went on for 20 more years to work fine.